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  1. #21
    Bloodsail Admiral FearXI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glo View Post
    Ah ok. Thought you were going for a full liquid loop.
    It's something to think about.
    What would you recommend if I would choose to do it?

    And with the parts I have picked they all mesh well?

  2. #22
    Then you need to find a reference GPU, or a waterblock that supports the non-reference PCB you've chosen (which is rather easy, just pick a GTX 680 waterblock instead, 95% of the case, which is the case with Gigabyte).
    Buying the H100 would then be superfluous.
    It would make you buy a 2x120 (240) mm radiator, fans to said radiator, CPU-block to go with the GPU-block, non-adhesive liquid to mix with water, pump, tubing, fittings.
    I'm not up-to-date with the pricings of the US, but you would likely look at adding an additional 500-1000 USD for that equipment alone.
    I say it's not really worth it. Re-evaluate in 2-3 months after you bought it, if you think a) it doesn't perform like you like it to, cooling wise b) think it's worth the money c) just want an additional level and dimension of constant tinkering.
     

  3. #23
    Your case definitely has more than enough room for it. I'd hop over to Koolance which is one of the more credible and widely accepted makers/sellers of decent liquid components.

    http://koolance.com/index.php?route=common/home

    You'll need:

    1. CPU block for 1155
    2. GPU block for whichever card you go with
    3. Radiator
    4. Tubing
    5. Connectors and fittings
    6. Pump and reservoir
    7. Coolant

    It's a big undertaking, but the actual setup will last you forever (aside from the custom CPU and GPU blocks).

    ---------- Post added 2012-06-09 at 03:58 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by tetrisGOAT View Post
    Then you need to find a reference GPU, or a waterblock that supports the non-reference PCB you've chosen (which is rather easy, just pick a GTX 680 waterblock instead, 95% of the case, which is the case with Gigabyte).
    Buying the H100 would then be superfluous.
    It would make you buy a 2x120 (240) mm radiator, fans to said radiator, CPU-block to go with the GPU-block, non-adhesive liquid to mix with water, pump, tubing, fittings.
    I'm not up-to-date with the pricings of the US, but you would likely look at adding an additional 500-1000 USD for that equipment alone.
    I say it's not really worth it. Re-evaluate in 2-3 months after you bought it, if you think a) it doesn't perform like you like it to, cooling wise b) think it's worth the money c) just want an additional level and dimension of constant tinkering.
    Should only cost around $500 for an entry level setup. Blocks aren't as expensive as they used to be.
    i7-4770k - GTX 780 Ti - 16GB DDR3 Ripjaws - (2) HyperX 120s / Vertex 3 120
    ASRock Extreme3 - Sennheiser Momentums - Xonar DG - EVGA Supernova 650G - Corsair H80i

    build pics

  4. #24
    The Patient sourmonkey's Avatar
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    if your the kind of person who keeps a eye on your PC then full loop as it requires you to inspect and upkeep your water levels etc... this setup yields higher cooling but risky if installed wrong or carelessly a leaky hose = damaged parts due to the radiator potential going dry.

    if your like me and dont want to open you pc as much as want a machine that will cool better than stock and as good as the top air coolers then a H100 is the way to go if your case can hold it . i went with a corsair case the 650D that houses 4 cougar fans and i use the case controller to cool with 4 more. you can build a pc anyway you want i like your picks but when you build a gaming PC think like your wow toon and min max your build for effective gaming with the most power. Graphics-CPU-Ram-SSD is what i would do for 2000 i would grab a 690gtx,i5 2500k 8 gig ddr3 z68 mobo 250gig SSD and a H100 WHY? simple the 690 is a beast with dual GPUs the i5 2500k is overclockable up to 4.5 -4.8 ghz with a h100 and decent mobo. your choice of course just saying how i would do it with 2k .

  5. #25
    Bloodsail Admiral FearXI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sourmonkey View Post
    if your the kind of person who keeps a eye on your PC then full loop as it requires you to inspect and upkeep your water levels etc... this setup yields higher cooling but risky if installed wrong or carelessly a leaky hose = damaged parts due to the radiator potential going dry.

    if your like me and dont want to open you pc as much as want a machine that will cool better than stock and as good as the top air coolers then a H100 is the way to go if your case can hold it . i went with a corsair case the 650D that houses 4 cougar fans and i use the case controller to cool with 4 more. you can build a pc anyway you want i like your picks but when you build a gaming PC think like your wow toon and min max your build for effective gaming with the most power. Graphics-CPU-Ram-SSD is what i would do for 2000 i would grab a 690gtx,i5 2500k 8 gig ddr3 z68 mobo 250gig SSD and a H100 WHY? simple the 690 is a beast with dual GPUs the i5 2500k is overclockable up to 4.5 -4.8 ghz with a h100 and decent mobo. your choice of course just saying how i would do it with 2k .
    Ok after reading more about the 690 cards I added into my maybe list for "other" parts.

    And after looking over posts about full water cooling... forget it.

    Should add all the parts are pretty much set in stone, as long as they all mesh.
    I believe I'll love the look of it all in the case and the power behind it all.
    Last edited by FearXI; 2012-06-09 at 04:15 AM.

  6. #26

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Milkshake86 View Post
    No reason to go for the X79 with his areas of use.
    And honestly, 2 DIMMs on a quad channel platform?
     

  8. #28
    Bloodsail Admiral FearXI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetrisGOAT View Post
    No reason to go for the X79 with his areas of use.
    And honestly, 2 DIMMs on a quad channel platform?
    Yeah I really like the mobo I've picked and hell all the parts.
    I'm pretty much done picking the parts out.

    Since it seems people here think the parts all work well with each other going to run them past my brother and then order them.
    I'll post up pictures when I build. Won't be for about a month though.

  9. #29
    Inb4 OP pouring water into his H100 :P

  10. #30
    Bloodsail Admiral FearXI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by protput View Post
    Inb4 OP pouring water into his H100 :P
    Huh? Why would I pour water into it...

    EDIT
    You do know it's a closed loop right?
    Last edited by FearXI; 2012-06-09 at 08:23 PM.

  11. #31
    I have cooling for CPU not the graphics card and from reading the cooling I have doesn't mention GPU cooling...
    I know it's a closed loop, did you?

  12. #32
    Bloodsail Admiral FearXI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by protput View Post
    I know it's a closed loop, did you?
    Very much so since I spent a lot of time going over nearly every part of my build.
    Wouldn't you?

  13. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by FearXI View Post
    Very much so since I spent a lot of time going over nearly every part of my build.
    Wouldn't you?
    I was the guy that recommended the H100 to you in the last thread you made :P

    I have it running in my case, push/pull. Excellent cooler, you'll like it!

  14. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by glo View Post
    Ah ok. Thought you were going for a full liquid loop.

    However, on that note, I'd suggest looking into a good air cooler instead of a closed loop liquid solution, such as this Noctua:



    or Silver Arrow:


    Closed loop coolers are nice to look at and all, but their performance isn't up to par with similar priced air solutions. Not to mention their noise levels are typically the same or higher than an air cooler due to the fact that there's still going to be 2 120mm fans on the radiator. Real full loop liquid coolers will always be the best choice, but those setups are both very costly and time consuming to implement.
    This is 100% incorrect. Have you not seen the countless benchmark temps of h100 vs both of those coolers you linked? Google it. Overclock and Tomshardware both have graphs showing the h100 as above air but below real water cooling.

  15. #35
    Bloodsail Admiral FearXI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Awfulz View Post
    This is 100% incorrect. Have you not seen the countless benchmark temps of h100 vs both of those coolers you linked? Google it. Overclock and Tomshardware both have graphs showing the h100 as above air but below real water cooling.
    For me "Above air" is good enough for me.
    Plus my case has plenty of fans and I can add more. I'd highly doubt heat will be an issue for me.

  16. #36
    Bloodsail Admiral FearXI's Avatar
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    Ok I think I have it all down.
    Quite a few changes.
    Case, PSU, RAM, SSD, Fans, and CPU.
    I might be getting more fans for it.
    Cooling fans is for the H100 stock fans on the case seem to be pretty good, but I may replace.
    Pretty much ignore the prices as I'll be getting them much cheaper.
    I use them for ballpark estimates.

    Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819116501 ($349.99)

    RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231589 ($219.99)

    MOBO: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131821 ($239.99)

    SSD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227805 ($209.99)

    GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814125423 ($399.99)x2

    Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811133191 ($159.99)

    Cooling: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...81017&Tpk=h100 ($114.99)

    Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817151110 ($199.99)

    Cooling Fans: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835553002 ($15.79)x4

    Total: $2,358.07

    (HDD: Reuse current HDD)

    Forgot to add I'll be doing RAMdisk.

  17. #37
    You know that 1333 ram version 2400 ram gives like a 1 fps increase, right? Not worth it at all imo. Dunno about OCZ, the Samsung one was a better call imo.

    Everything else looks good.

  18. #38
    Bloodsail Admiral FearXI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by protput View Post
    You know that 1333 ram version 2400 ram gives like a 1 fps increase, right? Not worth it at all imo. Dunno about OCZ, the Samsung one was a better call imo.

    Everything else looks good.
    From reading about RAMdisk the 2400+ gives much better performance.
    Hmm, I kept hearing OCZ gave better speeds. Do you own (or anyone) a SSD? How are the speeds of it?
    I like Samsung, you know well known brand but I want to make sure it's fast.

  19. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by FearXI View Post
    From reading about RAMdisk the 2400+ gives much better performance.
    Hmm, I kept hearing OCZ gave better speeds. Do you own (or anyone) a SSD? How are the speeds of it?
    I like Samsung, you know well known brand but I want to make sure it's fast.
    The difference in ram disks may be significant, but what's the point, really? A Ramdisk does like 6 gb/s write speeds on slow ram, and it might go up to 8 gb/s with 2400. But when on earth do you ever need to copy over files that are so big? Imo there's no point in it...

    I have the samsung 830 128gb, and trust me, it is FAST. Go for the samsung one or go for a crucial m4. I'd steer away from OCZ, have heard some horror stories...

  20. #40
    Bloodsail Admiral FearXI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by protput View Post
    The difference in ram disks may be significant, but what's the point, really? A Ramdisk does like 6 gb/s write speeds on slow ram, and it might go up to 8 gb/s with 2400. But when on earth do you ever need to copy over files that are so big? Imo there's no point in it...

    I have the samsung 830 128gb, and trust me, it is FAST. Go for the samsung one or go for a crucial m4. I'd steer away from OCZ, have heard some horror stories...
    I usually take your advice but I'm gonna stick with this RAM, but I will go back to the Samsung SSD.
    What do you normally stick on your SSD? I mean besides OS.

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