I need an electrician to settle this discussion

[Triggered Fridgekin]

Hey fellas,

I need someone to help me settle a discussion in regards to their drier.

Every so often, it'll blow the panel fuse in their box either while the machine is running or as it's turned on. Their reasoning is is that it's because there's a lint build up which is impeding airflow but the amount of heat the unit produces on high has no bearing on how much power the unit draws, right?

From my understanding, most (if not all) newer Dryer models have an internal thermostat and once it reaches a certain heat threshold it'll either turn itself off or blow an internal heat fuse to prevent fire if the lint trap is impeding airflow. Therefor the way I see it is if it's blowing the fuse in their box it's due to a fault in the wiring or from an outdated setup in general since it was put in like 40 years ago and uses those screw-in fuses. Also, the amount of heat the unit produces on high has no bearing on how much power the unit draws, right?

There's another spot which is prone to blowing fuses too which further cements my concern that it's their power setup.

There's a case of beer at stake.

[Raskayz]

Every so often, it'll blow the panel fuse in their box either while the machine is running or as it's turned on. Their reasoning is is that it's because there's a lint build up which is impeding airflow but the amount of heat the unit produces on high has no bearing on how much power the unit draws, right?

Nope actually, if you prevent the motor from turning it will draw more amps and produce heat that can melt the enamel around the copper coil, causing a short circuit

I would make sure nothing gets in the way of the airflow/fan

But if it blows the fuse right when you start it the problem may be elsewhere

[Triggered Fridgekin]

Nope actually, it you prevent the motor from turning it WILL draw more amps ad produce heat that can melt the enamel around the copper coil, causing a short circuit

But, assuming this is the cause, would it not consistently short out and blow the fuse? Or happen more frequently over time? Their model is inconsistent about when it happens and I assume the motor is turning since everything else appears to be fine. It's simply the element fuse which dies (which I should have probably been more specific about).

[Raskayz]

But, assuming this is the cause, would it not consistently short out and blow the fuse? Or happen more frequently over time? Their model is inconsistent about when it happens and I assume the motor is turning since everything else appears to be fine. It's simply the element fuse which dies (which I should have probably been more specific about).

Its really hard to tell without looking at it, but if it is randomly causing short circuits it could be an defect in insulation like an exposed wire contacting the grounded metal encasing when the device shakes

[Shadowferal]

Too much of a load on the same circuit.
If it's just the dryer on that circuit though...then it's the fuse...(Who uses fuses?) If the dryer is fairly new then it has its own fuse, and if that's not going off, it should be the fuse in the circuit itself that's the issue. (a 20 amp dryer on a 15 amp circuit is going to blow every time)

I had a problem with a breaker blowing when I had too much going on in the same circuit. When I turned a heater on...poof...circuit shut off kicks in. Plugged the heater on a different receptacle and everything is good.

[Ayla]

I'm slightly concerned you might have bigger wiring problems. Old homes/old wiring isn't intended to use today's electrical demands. Assuming you actually mean 'fuse' and not circuit breaker. Is your wiring aluminum?

[Triggered Fridgekin]

Too much of a load on the same circuit.
If it's just the dryer on that circuit though...then it's the fuse...(Who uses fuses?) If the dryer is fairly new then it has its own fuse, and if that's not going off, it should be the fuse in the circuit itself that's the issue. (a 20 amp dryer on a 15 amp circuit is going to blow every time)

I had a problem with a breaker blowing when I had too much going on in the same circuit. When I turned a heater on...poof...circuit shut off kicks in. Plugged the heater on a different receptacle and everything is good.

Like I said, the house was built in the 70s and, as far as I am aware of, the circuitry and wiring hasn't been upgraded so who knows what you'd find if the wiring were replaced.

I'm not there to check the machine and the fuse for their amperage rating though but I'm fairly confident that the guy knows better than to buy either cheap or underrated fuses. He's a pretty good handy-man type and I suspect after blowing the fuse about ten times over the course of last year would make him aware of what he's buying. Hopefully.

I'm slightly concerned you might have bigger wiring problems. Old homes/old wiring isn't intended to use today's electrical demands. Assuming you actually mean 'fuse' and not circuit breaker. Is your wiring aluminum?

I'm fairly certain they have copper wiring and it's definitely a fuse.



Looks like this (but not necessarily 15 amps due to the above)

[Orlong]

Wouldnt the easy way to figure it out would be to clean the lint filter and see if it stops blowing fuses?

[Triggered Fridgekin]

Wouldnt the easy way to figure it out would be to clean the lint filter and see if it stops blowing fuses?

The thing is is that it apparently happens with a lint-free filter as well. There aren't any kinks in the exhaust either and on a cold day you can see thick exhaust coming from the vent which doesn't give me the impression that it's blocked.

[Mistame]

Exceeding the amperage of the fuse will cause the fuse to blow. Either there's something else tied into the circuit that the dryer is using (therefore putting too much load on the fuse when the dryer is running), the dryer requires more amperage than the fuse allows or something is straining the motor that turns the drum. Outside of a short, nothing else should cause a spike in the amperage and it's unlikely a short if it runs fine most of the time.

Edit: It's important to note that if the dryer requires more amperage than the default fuse is rated for, you do NOT want to just drop a bigger fuse in. Doing so could cause the wires to to get hot and cause a fire if the wires are only rated for the size of the default fuse.

[Ayla]

Like I said, the house was built in the 70s and, as far as I am aware of, the circuitry and wiring hasn't been upgraded so who knows what you'd find if the wiring were replaced.

I'm not there to check the machine and the fuse for their amperage rating though but I'm fairly confident that the guy knows better than to buy either cheap or underrated fuses. He's a pretty good handy-man type and I suspect after blowing the fuse about ten times over the course of last year would make him aware of what he's buying. Hopefully.



I'm fairly certain they have copper wiring and it's definitely a fuse.



Looks like this (but not necessarily 15 amps due to the above)

Does the outlet the dryer uses get hot at all? (when in use)

[Triggered Fridgekin]

Exceeding the amperage of the fuse will cause the fuse to blow. Either there's something else tied into the circuit that the dryer is using (therefore putting too much load on the fuse when the dryer is running), the dryer requires more amperage than the fuse allows or something is straining the motor that turns the drum. Outside of a short, nothing else should cause a spike in the amperage and it's unlikely a short if it runs fine most of the time.

Edit: It's important to note that if the dryer requires more amperage than the default fuse is rated for, you do NOT want to just drop a bigger fuse in. Doing so could cause the wires to to get hot and cause a fire if the wires are only rated for the default fuse.

Is there a way to tell what the default fuse rating would be? I assume it'd be marked on the fuse box layout which he has next to the box and, from, what I recall it only has the dryer element on it.

Does the outlet the dryer uses get hot at all? (when in use)

Hard to tell since you'd have to move the entire setup to find out. Would you be able to check the fuse itself by running an empty load for 30 minutes, turn it off, and check?

Could a large laundry load create such an issue?

[Gilgemesh]

There are a hundred factors that can make a fuse pop.
the first and second most dangerous factors are: 1: Overloaded circuit, too small of wire, or too long of a run(which are all basically the same thing). 2: bad connections/ground. Both of these issues offer serious fire hazards, even on circuit breakers and fuses.
They could be using too small of a fuse. The dryer could be defective in some way. Some 220v appliances are supposed to be run on "slow blow" fusing or breakers. They run small surges of power in the beginning and when elements turn on off... Which is fine if the wiring and protection is up to snuff.

[Shadowferal]

Most homes are going to have a mix of 15 to 20 amps per circuit.
And there should be a diagram in the circuit box. (That's kinda mandatory)

[Triggered Fridgekin]

I'll probably just call an electrician on his behalf since he's usually too stubborn to do so.

I'm fairly confident that case of beer is mine though.

[BaP]

MOVE OUT as fast as you can BEFORE it burns down around you!!!!!!!!

[Ginantonicus]

Put a nail across the fuse. Problem solved.

On a serious not unplug every thing in the circuit and plug them in one by one and leave them turned on for 30 min. You are tying to make the fuse blow.

How many heating elements are connected to the circuit? eg kettle, hot water system, dryer. One kettle pulls 10amps generally that's one third to half of the fuse rating.

[Mistame]

Is there a way to tell what the default fuse rating would be? I assume it'd be marked on the fuse box layout which he has next to the box and, from, what I recall it only has the dryer element on it.

It's hard to say with a system that old. Generally speaking, you'd never increase the amperage of fuse in a given socket without knowing the wire rating for that circuit. There's no way to tell if someone has done that but nonetheless, don't put a higher amperage fuse than what you've taken out.

Could a large laundry load create such an issue?

Typically, a dryer's rating will take into consideration its maximum load (weight, balance, etc). Of course, if they crammed it full of dripping wet jeans, that would probably exceed the maximum. Having an electrician look at it would be the best option. It may be a case of needing to upgrade that circuit (including the wiring). Or better yet, replace the entire system.

[Ghostpanther]

Electric dryers that I am familiar with use a 220/240 volt circuit. Which means the fuse should be 30 amps. Too small and it will not handle the amps the dryer is producing. However, it is important to know that if you use a 30 amp fuse, the wire should be 10 gauge copper. 12 gauge is for 20 amps and 14 gauge is for 15 amps. Those are the upper limit of the amp range for each wire dia. It is important not to exceed those ratings for the wire being used.

However, if it is a gas dryer, then it will only use a 20 or 15 amp circuit for the motor and other electronic components. 20 amp preferably.

[Tradewind]

Dryer should have its own dedicated double fuse box, not shared with anything else, across two 110/120V taps at different phases, providing 220/240V @ 20-30 Amps. 30 is typical for dryer outlets, but if it had 20A fuses before the wire gauge is probably insufficient for 30A. Do NOT get 30A fuses if it had 20A fuses originally without first verifying that the wire gauge to the outlet is sufficient (see post above).

If the fuse(s) is tripping when it turns on its more than likely the fuse or fuses need to be replaced as they're no longer able to provide enough amps to the heating coil/motor etc. Ergo, they're tripping under normal load. Not unusual if they're quite old, fuse fatigue on high amperage fuses can be common enough depending on the material used to build it, as current runs through it or pulses the thermal damage done slowly deteriorates fuses. Replace them with the exact same amperage fuses that you take out of the box.

Lint trap or duct blockage is unlikely to be causing this, long ass dry cycles and fire would be the first indication of those being a problem. What would go first in this case (clogged vents) is the thermal fuse inside of the dryer, which would cut off power to the heating element. The motor would still run, just tumbling wet clothes forever, but it should not trip the fuse or breaker for the circuit.