What will I regret with this build? Couple of questions as well

[Lathais]

But you said i was false?????

Because your statement was and still is. Not all parts of the statement were true, therefore the entire statement is false. Part of your statement was that the H100i cooled better than the NH-D15. That is false, so the entire statement WAS false. Basic elementary thinking. If the entire statement is not true, then it is false.

- - - Updated - - -

if you are worried about an aio leaking, get an air cooler. if you don't want a big lump, get an aio.
if you are worried about an aio leaking and don't want a big lump, get a custom loop.
if you are worried about a custom loop or an aio leaking and don't want a big lump.. there are some weird off-set coolers but.. just get a slightly smaller lump?

Just to add to this part:

if you want to save money, get an air cooler.
if noise is a concern for you, get an air cooler.

[Remilia]

Long term investment wise, I would always go with air cooler due to the fact that the only failure point is the fan. AIOs have multiple failure point along with the fan, possible leak, pump failure and maintenance isn't really great. If the fan stops working on a heatsink it'd still passively cool it. If the pump stops working on an AIO it just toasts, and pump being the more common failure point. Passive cooling if the fan fails is harder due to how radiators require a decent amount of air pressure to cool it (they're more dense restricting airflow). Noctua, Phanteks and Cryorig (I think?) do offer free brackets for new sockets.
Personal opinion, if you're going liquid, go full ham custom or not at all.

[pansertjald]

Because your statement was and still is. Not all parts of the statement were true, therefore the entire statement is false. Part of your statement was that the H100i cooled better than the NH-D15. That is false, so the entire statement WAS false. Basic elementary thinking. If the entire statement is not true, then it is false.

How can i be false, when i just showed you that it does cool better??????. I can give you more links, where it wins over the NH-D15

Lathais your problem is, that you ONLY want to believe in the websites you use and nomather what others show you, you still wont believe in any thing else. We have seen it again and again in other threads. So no point in taking this any futher

[Lathais]

How can i be false, when i just showed you that it does cool better??????. I can give you more links, where it wins over the NH-D15

Lathais your problem is, that you ONLY want to believe in the websites you use and nomather what others show you, you still wont believe in any thing else. We have seen it again and again in other threads. So no point in taking this any futher

But you didn't. You showed that the H100i v2 cooled better but you originally stated that the H100i cooled better. It does not.

Also, I wouldn't exactly call 5 degrees better. It's more like the same. They cool very similarly yet one option costs more, is noisier, has more points of failure and requires maintenance. The other costs less, is quieter, can't stop working entirely and requires no maintenance. The only real advantage AIO Coolers have is looks, if you care about that sort of thing.

[pansertjald]

But you didn't. You showed that the H100i v2 cooled better but you originally stated that the H100i cooled better. It does not.

Also, I wouldn't exactly call 5 degrees better. It's more like the same. They cool very similarly yet one option costs more, is noisier, has more points of failure and requires maintenance. The other costs less, is quieter, can't stop working entirely and requires no maintenance. The only real advantage AIO Coolers have is looks, if you care about that sort of thing.

Yes the v2 and that is what i wrote in the first post. Maybe read it again. The h100i/110i v2

[Zoldor]

If I'd change one thing, I'd step my monitor game up. Spend somewhere in the 500 range for a monitor and you'll be a lot happier for a lot longer. I'm also not a fan of messing with SSD and regular HDD, I'd just get a larger SSD, but I'm not sure how much downloading, etc you do. I mostly game and my word processing files are all cloud storage. Maybe, MAYBE, a larger Power Supply, but overall I think you'll be happy with the build the only change I can say would make a difference is going with a more powerful monitor.

[Triscone]

Not only this... but waiting... leads to more waiting, leads to more waiting. At some point you need to actually upgrade.
@Triscone what's your current rig, anyways?

Current Rig is several years old at this point and was prebuilt Alienware that I got a deal on from a friend.


Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 920 @ 2.67GHz
Name NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460
1TB HDD but no SSD
Generic Acer 1920x1080x60 Monitor

All that being said, wanted to move into custom because of price/performance ratio and it's something I'm pretty comfortable in doing, even though I haven't done it since the early 00's.

[DeltrusDisc]

If I'd change one thing, I'd step my monitor game up. Spend somewhere in the 500 range for a monitor and you'll be a lot happier for a lot longer. I'm also not a fan of messing with SSD and regular HDD, I'd just get a larger SSD, but I'm not sure how much downloading, etc you do. I mostly game and my word processing files are all cloud storage. Maybe, MAYBE, a larger Power Supply, but overall I think you'll be happy with the build the only change I can say would make a difference is going with a more powerful monitor.

Tried saying better monitor... got completely ignored. =|

Larger power supply? For what, exactly? The one he's chosen is already overkill, and enough for SLI, even!

Current Rig is several years old at this point and was prebuilt Alienware that I got a deal on from a friend.


Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 920 @ 2.67GHz
Name NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460
1TB HDD but no SSD
Generic Acer 1920x1080x60 Monitor

All that being said, wanted to move into custom because of price/performance ratio and it's something I'm pretty comfortable in doing, even though I haven't done it since the early 00's.

Oooh!

Yikes, yeah, move on. Move on from it all! XD

This upgrade IS GOING TO BE NIGHT AND DAY, let me tell you, it's going to be great. We've got a lot of great things that are coming and they will be fantastic. Just terrific things. Wonderful night and day difference.

Great people.

I'm out. <3 Have fun with your build!

[Gaidax]

Below is the breakdown, but a couple of questions to go along with it. What is the difference between a SATA SSD and an M.2 performance wise? Is there a reason to pick one over the other when making a build in this price range? Along those same lines, is there a reason to look into liquid cooling for a build like this? PC is expected for 1440 60hz gaming as well as everyday use. I'm a fairly wide range gamer and am looking for something that will not be obsoleted quickly in the next year or 2. Thank you guys very much for any assistance you could provide.


PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LC3GHN
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LC3GHN/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.35 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($166.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($237.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($116.99 @ Best Buy)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 540 Silver ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($94.00 @ Amazon)
Monitor: BenQ GW2765HT 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($318.90 @ Amazon)
Total: $2146.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-09 05:51 EST-0500

You can easily save a ton of cash by choosing less fancy Z series motherboard, removing optical drive (you really need that shit?), changing power supply, SSD (Evo really is just as fine for a fraction of price) and by simply waiting a month for Zen CPUs to arrive which will inevitably start price war one way or another.

Then you can pour that cache into GTX1080 or whatever will be there, instead of 1070 you got, as this one is really one thing that stands out in that build as a slower part that makes no sense in otherwise premium build.

[Triscone]

Tried saying better monitor... got completely ignored. =|

Larger power supply? For what, exactly? The one he's chosen is already overkill, and enough for SLI, even!



Oooh!

Yikes, yeah, move on. Move on from it all! XD

This upgrade IS GOING TO BE NIGHT AND DAY, let me tell you, it's going to be great. We've got a lot of great things that are coming and they will be fantastic. Just terrific things. Wonderful night and day difference.

Great people.

I'm out. <3 Have fun with your build!

Thanks for that. I needed that. LOL. And sorry for not replying earlier, I'm on a weird work schedule this week due to a rollout that MUST be done at night....

Anyway, could you offer any more insight into the monitor discussion. I definitely read it and looked into it some and now I'm more confused than ever. What should I be looking for in the sub 500 range? 1440/144? I looked at a few and don't really know where to go from there. 2560x1080/60?

[Deleted]

As the rest said there is really no reason anymore to go for Aio unless full custom water loop. Also for the regular user/gamer a standard ssd is enough and you won't really see performance differences with high end ssd's. If the only thing you doing is gaming you don't need an i7, just grab an i5 and throw the money towards the gpu.

You didn't state the budget but say you can go up to 2.5k i would go with what Deltrus said for 3440x1440 with a gtx1080.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($82.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270X-Ultra Gaming ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($164.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($117.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($600.06 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.33 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($94.00 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell U3415W 34.0" 3440x1440 60Hz Monitor ($729.99 @ Adorama)
Total: $2472.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-10 03:03 EST-0500

edit: Btw unless you are in a hurry amd's new cpu's come out in a month with similar performances to intel but much cheaper or get more for same money. I would say if you are going to spend that much money on a rig is worth waiting.

[Triscone]

Think I have finalized my list. I wanted keep this build in the 1800-2000 range and stepping up to 3440x1440 and a 1080 is just a bit more than I want to stretch I think.
I am not a huge FPS player and high refresh rates would just be an added cost that I don't think I would greatly see the difference in. I dropped secondary storage as I have a 1tb drive available already here and would rather spend that + a little bit more and just step into a 1tb SSD instead of 500g. Went with the M2 form factor due to very similar prices and wanting to keep the inner workings as clean as possible. Moved to a Dark Rock Pro 3 cooler, because everything else in the case is Black and Red and the DH15 colors just bothered me too much in the end. Anyone care to offer input on OEM versus Full versions on the O/S? Would I be better with a full as opposed to OEM if I ever wanted to make changes in the future?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($89.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($333.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 540 Silver ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: BenQ GW2765HT 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($318.90 @ Amazon)
Total: $2000.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-10 07:03 EST-0500

[Arbiter]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($89.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($333.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 540 Silver ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: BenQ GW2765HT 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($318.90 @ Amazon)
Total: $2000.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-10 07:03 EST-0500

OEM vs Full realistically won't really matter.

That said, are you choosing that case for any particular reason? As a former owner, I can easily say that it's getting to be outdated and frankly still just as expensive as it was in the past yet not worth it compared to some of the much better cases these days. Takes up too much of a foot print. Overly excessive amount of space compared to the parts you're putting in it. Dust still gets into the case fairly easy especially since you won't have any HDDs at the bottom of the case leaving huge openings. It's also really shitty about keeping noise in.

I thought it was something that I really wanted when I bought it, but I quickly wish I hadn't. Ended up switching to a Define R5, but I will say Phanteks has some pretty damn nice cases available lately and even with tempered glass options which you would probably like.

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/qy38...h-ec416pstg_ag For example. Comes in a few different color options.

[DeltrusDisc]

Think I have finalized my list. I wanted keep this build in the 1800-2000 range and stepping up to 3440x1440 and a 1080 is just a bit more than I want to stretch I think.
I am not a huge FPS player and high refresh rates would just be an added cost that I don't think I would greatly see the difference in. I dropped secondary storage as I have a 1tb drive available already here and would rather spend that + a little bit more and just step into a 1tb SSD instead of 500g. Went with the M2 form factor due to very similar prices and wanting to keep the inner workings as clean as possible. Moved to a Dark Rock Pro 3 cooler, because everything else in the case is Black and Red and the DH15 colors just bothered me too much in the end. Anyone care to offer input on OEM versus Full versions on the O/S? Would I be better with a full as opposed to OEM if I ever wanted to make changes in the future?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($89.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($333.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 540 Silver ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: BenQ GW2765HT 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($318.90 @ Amazon)
Total: $2000.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-10 07:03 EST-0500

What you could do would be maybe don't buy a new monitor just yet, but buy the new computer. Save up your money, and then you'll be able to get something awesome.

Now that I have a curved 34" 3440x1440 monitor? Never going back!

[Zenfoldor]

Let me throw an alternate opinion here. The days of buying i5 over i7 is soon coming to a close. Honestly, any PC I bought today, would have hyper-threading in it. An excuse to save 100 bucks on a 1500 dollar rig, to use what is in actuality a far inferior cpu, is no choice at all. The days of "buy an i5" are from when we were all kids and wanted to save every penny. Don't short your rig because you think you will only use it for gaming. Look at the processor recommendations for the new Fallout texture pack before you decide on i5.

On your pci-e m.2 option, I'd say go for it. It's snappier and will give faster load times. Old sata SSDs are fine, but they are outdated as of this year. Get a 960 evo 500gb for 250 bucks and don't look back. These drives are a lot faster and you can tell the difference, but only slightly and in loading screens.

Get a monitor before anything else. Make sure it has.

1440p or greater
23" or greater(prefer 27)
g-sync or freesync
144hz

If you are not using a monitor with these features, your money is better spent on a monitor. I can't tell you how much qol and compute power you waste trying to handle vsync with software(half your stuff) or just accepting screen tearing in 2017. The next gen of monitors won't even call this "gsync" it will just be w and w/o vsync. Eventually it will be built in every single monitor made(not that far off). It adds a minute amount of latency which is un-noticable.

Opinions:

1. Ditch the bargin basement PSUs and get a seasonic, the new titanium flagship is nice.
2. Build your ram for the video card you want, not the one you can afford. Look at the REQUIRED ram for a gtx 1080 and start with that.

Thanks, PS: don't build cheap if you have money.

[Arbiter]

Let me throw an alternate opinion here. The days of buying i5 over i7 is soon coming to a close. Honestly, any PC I bought today, would have hyper-threading in it. An excuse to save 100 bucks on a 1500 dollar rig, to use what is in actuality a far inferior cpu, is no choice at all. The days of "buy an i5" are from when we were all kids and wanted to save every penny. Don't short your rig because you think you will only use it for gaming. Look at the processor recommendations for the new Fallout texture pack before you decide on i5.

On your pci-e m.2 option, I'd say go for it. It's snappier and will give faster load times. Old sata SSDs are fine, but they are outdated as of this year. Get a 960 evo 500gb for 250 bucks and don't look back. These drives are a lot faster and you can tell the difference, but only slightly and in loading screens.

Get a monitor before anything else. Make sure it has.

1440p or greater
23" or greater(prefer 27)
g-sync or freesync
144hz

If you are not using a monitor with these features, your money is better spent on a monitor. I can't tell you how much qol and compute power you waste trying to handle vsync with software(half your stuff) or just accepting screen tearing in 2017. The next gen of monitors won't even call this "gsync" it will just be w and w/o vsync. Eventually it will be built in every single monitor made(not that far off). It adds a minute amount of latency which is un-noticable.

Opinions:

1. Ditch the bargin basement PSUs and get a seasonic, the new titanium flagship is nice.
2. Build your ram for the video card you want, not the one you can afford. Look at the REQUIRED ram for a gtx 1080 and start with that.

Thanks, PS: don't build cheap if you have money.

This is terrible advice.

The "Opinions:" text should have been move to the complete top as the entire thing is just a huge opinion and the little bit of information that isn't an opinion is mostly false.

-Adults have budgets too.
-Not everyone needs an i7. They're nice to have in any case but if you're just playing games and the i7 is the difference between a 1060 or 1070 then go for the i5.
-Processor recommendations in games are almost always over exaggerated.
-SATA SSDs are far from outdated. You wouldn't even be able to tell the difference between it and a faster M.2 drive outside of reading and writing gigabytes of data like file transfers or game loading. That said if you have the money go for it. They're nice none the less.
-Having a good monitor is nearly useless without a PC to use it to the fullest potential (or use it at all for that matter). Most features are also completely subjective. Not everyone cares to have a $700 monitor (or afford the monitor itself and the PC to fully power it for that matter).
-SuperNOVA G2s are far from "bargin basement". It's top quality and not every has the spare budget to go diving into titanium certified PSUs just for a little bit more efficiency.
-No such thing as building your RAM around a video card for gaming. You buy the amount of RAM that you need for your tasks and then you buy a GPU that also does what it needs to for your tasks.

[Lathais]

Let me throw an alternate opinion here. The days of buying i5 over i7 is soon coming to a close. Honestly, any PC I bought today, would have hyper-threading in it. An excuse to save 100 bucks on a 1500 dollar rig, to use what is in actuality a far inferior cpu, is no choice at all. The days of "buy an i5" are from when we were all kids and wanted to save every penny. Don't short your rig because you think you will only use it for gaming. Look at the processor recommendations for the new Fallout texture pack before you decide on i5.

On your pci-e m.2 option, I'd say go for it. It's snappier and will give faster load times. Old sata SSDs are fine, but they are outdated as of this year. Get a 960 evo 500gb for 250 bucks and don't look back. These drives are a lot faster and you can tell the difference, but only slightly and in loading screens.

Get a monitor before anything else. Make sure it has.

1440p or greater
23" or greater(prefer 27)
g-sync or freesync
144hz

If you are not using a monitor with these features, your money is better spent on a monitor. I can't tell you how much qol and compute power you waste trying to handle vsync with software(half your stuff) or just accepting screen tearing in 2017. The next gen of monitors won't even call this "gsync" it will just be w and w/o vsync. Eventually it will be built in every single monitor made(not that far off). It adds a minute amount of latency which is un-noticable.

Opinions:

1. Ditch the bargin basement PSUs and get a seasonic, the new titanium flagship is nice.
2. Build your ram for the video card you want, not the one you can afford. Look at the REQUIRED ram for a gtx 1080 and start with that.

Thanks, PS: don't build cheap if you have money.

If all you are doing is gaming, then you don't need an i7. Period. I would not say an i5 if "far inferior" to an i7. In applications that don't use HT, they are literally the exact same thing. In fact, the i7 is going to be slightly worse(almost not even measurable, but it's there) because of the overhead involved in HT. Even if you are using it for more than gaming, unless that other stuff is actually going to be making you money to cover the difference, there is no reason to go for an i7 over an i5. None at all.

The difference between a PCI-E M.2 and a SATA SSD is not what you make it out to be. Yeah, sure, if you are a large company and reading and writing a whole bunch of data a day and those seconds it saves you add up to hours and it makes a huge difference in your productivity, you go for the M.2. If not though, if you are just your average consumer or a gamer, you will not notice the difference between the two.

Monitor first? and must be a 1440p with some form of adaptive sync? I don't think so. That's just plain silly. What would be the point in a 27" 1440p 144hz GSync monitor if that makes the budget for the PC shrink to where I can only get a 1050? I'd rather get a cheaper monitor and a 1060 or a 1070 any day.

Bargain Basement PSU? That's a damn near top quality PSU there, not a bargain basement. And Titanium? Who needs that?

What are you talking about with the 1080 requiring RAM? Where are you even seeing this requirement you are telling us to look at?

[Zoldor]

I'm going to assume a budget of 2k, really didn't say. I was guessing a fairly unlimited budget. Going to say I love my Dell 1440p 144hz monitor, granted it isn't 27, I have a 24 because my desk isn't huge and I have two 24 monitors, one IPS monitor and the Dell. I can tell a drastic difference in my Dell and my old monitor. It is rather impressive.

For an extra 100 or 200 you could really jump your monitor game, I'm not sure if that is within budget constraints or not. But I think overall you are going to be completely happy with the PC you've picked, especially if two years is the time frame you want it to survive. And you'll have a lot you can transfer over, your next upgrade won't need to be as drastic.

This is the monitor I have and I really like it, had to tweak a little bit, but everything is beautiful in it so far, and I was skeptical about a TN panel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

Again, you're going to be over the moon with your build no matter what.

As to the person a few places up I have no idea what it must be like to play on a 34 Curved, good lord with my desk you'd have to sit 20 feet back, lol.

My new laptop is going to have a 4k screen so I'm interested to see the differences between my 3 screens.

[Deleted]

As to the person a few places up I have no idea what it must be like to play on a 34 Curved, good lord with my desk you'd have to sit 20 feet back, lol.

So you have desk space for 2x 24" monitors but not a 34"? Do you even know how big the 34" ultrawide is? Let me help you. A 24" is 20.92"x11.77" so 2 of those will have at least 41.84" width, cause you know there is 2 bezels to fit in between too. A 34" ultrawide is 31.25"x13.39". Now tell me which of the two setups needs more space not to even account for 2stands. Do i need to mention the difference in gaming/productivity/media experience between the two?
You flawed logic @ post #38 is very well explained why is wrong by Arbiter and Lathais so i won't go there.

[Zoldor]

So you have desk space for 2x 24" monitors but not a 34"? Do you even know how big the 34" ultrawide is? Let me help you. A 24" is 20.92"x11.77" so 2 of those will have at least 41.84" width, cause you know there is 2 bezels to fit in between too. A 34" ultrawide is 31.25"x13.39". Now tell me which of the two setups needs more space not to even account for 2stands. Do i need to mention the difference in gaming/productivity/media experience between the two?
You flawed logic @ post #38 is very well explained why is wrong by Arbiter and Lathais so i won't go there.

Your reading skill is amazing. I didn't make post 38 that would be Zenfold. All Z's are not the same.

Also, I'd rather have two monitors. But thank you for letting me know I can have a 34inch ultra wide monitor if I want to spend 700+ on a quality one. The reference I made was a joke of having to sit far away cause my desk isn't deep, not necessarily that I couldn't fit the monitor on it, basically marveling at the size of a beasty monitor like a 34. What you are commenting to would have looked more like, "34 inch that is insane I'd never be able to fit a beast like that on my desk." Not really sure how 1 monitor lends itself to more productivity, but I'm sure in your wisdom you could enlighten me if you were so inclined. The gaming and media experience are better all around I'm sure, hence why that monitor is double the price of mine and ya know tech and all.

But again thank you for your wisdom, glad you took my off the cuff joke so deeply to heart to lecture me on my desks ability to fit a monitor.