Partly agree. The review from someone not used to, say, platformers is useful to those not used to platformers. It's also great feedback to developers on what would be frustrating and who potentially could stop new players from playing their game. "Maybe that would not happen if our tutorial was better" or similar thoughts might improve the game and let more people enjoy it. It's usually a matter of perspective for people to become of an opinion towards the "thing". A horrible introduction may breed hate towards the game but a great introduction might make the same person love that game.
I think the real skill reviewers should have is understanding the game, understanding the phase of the game, how a good story is written and exposed and understanding what a polished experience is. All in conjunction with to whom the game is meant for and base on that, give us a good review. That's their skill.
I agree with the article though. Skill is just one way to play a game and it tends to eat away at every other way of playing at the moment.