Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst
1
2
  1. #21
    Deleted
    your build should be around $580 as you mentioned but that's without the monitor and delivery fees. Seems pretty accurate.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Notarget View Post
    your build should be around $580 as you mentioned but that's without the monitor and delivery fees. Seems pretty accurate.
    What would be a good alternative case to the NZXT Gamma Classic? (Want it to look good also :P)
    Last edited by Frex; 2012-01-26 at 10:49 PM.

  3. #23

  4. #24
    Thanks again! Going with the Cooler Master Elite 430

  5. #25
    Deleted
    Quote Originally Posted by Frex View Post
    Ok thanks guys. So my current build is this:

    CPU: Intel core i3-2100 3.1ghz
    MoBo: ASRock h61-m micro atx
    GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD 6850
    RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8Gb (2x4gb)
    HDD: Seagate Barracuda 500GB
    PSU: Corsair Builder CX500 500W
    Case: NZXT Gamma Classic
    CDROM: Asus DVD Burner 24X
    Monitor: ASUS 22" VW224U

    So if this is what I'm going for, what am I missing except a wireless adapter?
    I would totally recommend not getting this. It's a 1 time thing. It will be pretty slow, relatively expensive and not possible to upgrade.

    If you have 600$ budget, and you can't get ANY parts from your old computer, you're probably better off buying a prebuilt than this.

    Anyway, you could probably get some old case for free or build the thing in some cardboard box, attach it to a TV and not buy CDROM but the motherboard and PSU are really bad idea and you should instead try to get a decent 700w+ Corsair one or better instead. They last for 4-10 years. I made the same mistake with my previous build and had to replace the 500W one in less than a year because I got a new video card.

    As for the mobo, get a decent z68 one or p67. It will also last for a fairly long time and will support the new Ivy Bridge CPUs. I'd even go as far as to say that it would be better to buy a z68 ATX motherboard and no video card and later if you come across some more cash, buy the hd 6850.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Frex View Post
    I'm sort of left out in the dark here, what do you actually need to get a computer up and running and connected to the internet?

    CPU/MoBo/GPU/RAM/HDD/PSU/PSU Heatsink/Case/CDROM/OS

    What else? Kind of feels like something is missing for me, shouldn't there be something for the internet? or anything else?
    CPU/MoBo/iGPU or GPU/RAM/HDD/PSU/CPU Heatsink/OS/DVD

    U dont need a case ahah and you dont need a discret GPU if theres a GPU integrated in ur CPU (like the Core i3 2xxx), just saying whats the minimum! lol, technically you need a dvd but .. you just need one to install windows and mobo driver (sometime windows dont have a generic driver for some onboard stuff .. ike the gigabit port for Internet )
    Last edited by DarkBlade6; 2012-01-27 at 11:42 AM.

  7. #27
    Deleted
    You could just get a good PSU 700W+ 100-130$
    Then z68 mobo 100-150$
    I5 2500k CPU 230$
    Ram 8gb - 42$

    And then skimp on all the rest..

    No GPU needed, you could run the onboard one on the CPU
    Probably need some cheap case and a monitor too but you could also use a TV for the time being.

    And later buy a GPU and other convenience and missing parts.

    That's what I'd do anyway:P

    ---------- Post added 2012-01-27 at 12:08 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by mnm View Post
    CPU/MoBo/iGPU or GPU/RAM/HDD/PSU/CPU Heatsink/OS/DVD

    U dont need a case ahah and you dont need a discret GPU if theres a GPU integrated in ur CPU (like the Core i3 2xxx), just saying whats the minimum! lol, technically you need a dvd but .. you just need one to install windows and mobo driver (sometime windows dont have a generic driver for some onboard stuff .. ike the gigabit port for Internet )
    You don't need a DVD -ROM even for that. You could just install Windows/Linux from USB and then download the rest from the internet.

  8. #28
    Deleted
    I think you're just confusing OP now, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the build he is buying. Yes it wont really be "future proof" but for $600 it will work and run most games at medium to high with no problem what so ever.

    Not everyone can and want to postpone or keep adding to their budget. Using the the "gpu" on the CPU, really? come on quit trolling. Also there is absolutely no need for a 700W+ PSU unless you're suggesting buying some crap one.

    @OP, Ita is right you could upgrade to it's suggested specs and make it a lot easier to upgrade in the future but of course it'll come at an added cost. In that case a good quality 500W+ PSU will be fine for a single GPU configuration. If you want something that works and will run games fine for quite a while, stick with what we/you came up with.

  9. #29
    Deleted
    Quote Originally Posted by Notarget View Post
    I think you're just confusing OP now, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the build he is buying. Yes it wont really be "future proof" but for $600 it will work and run most games at medium to high with no problem what so ever.

    Not everyone can and want to postpone or keep adding to their budget. Using the the "gpu" on the CPU, really? come on quit trolling. Also there is absolutely no need for a 700W+ PSU unless you're suggesting buying some crap one.

    @OP, Ita is right you could upgrade to it's suggested specs and make it a lot easier to upgrade in the future but of course it'll come at an added cost. In that case a good quality 500W+ PSU will be fine for a single GPU configuration. If you want something that works and will run games fine for quite a while, stick with what we/you came up with.
    Well, looking at the graphics card he's buying, he'll probably want to be able to play games with it and you're right, it will most likely run all current games and other software at medium to high settings BUT..

    All the pieces have almost no future value. It will last 1-2 years and then he has to throw it in the garbage and buy a new one. So unless he just needs something till then and expects lots of money coming in in a year, sure, why not. But if the budget is tight and he will want the PC to be relevant in a year, it's better to buy all quality parts and add more in the future. With my suggestion, he could buy that with 600$ or so, "suffer" through the not so good performance of onboard GPU and when he adds 200$ worth of parts, like the video card and some others, it will already be way ahead of the original build you suggested and he could keep updating it for years with minor expenses like that instead of throwing it away and buying another sub par thing in 2 years.

  10. #30
    He's clearly on a budget, and the build that we've come up with is about the best possible build for that budget. Sure, it won't last as long as a computer you could build with double the budget, but that's the nature of the beast... You get what you pay for.

    First, he definitely doesn't need a 700W+ PSU, even for future proofing, 550W-600W is plenty in a single GPU setup. Second, while the i5 2500k is undoubtedly the better chip, the i3 2100 is generally considered the best "on a budget" chip available. Third, it is much easier (and cheaper) to add more RAM in the future than it is to buy a new GPU and add it...

    Like I've said several times in this thread, my friend built his little brother a PC with almost the exact same setup (lesser GPU in my friend's build) and his little brother is playing SW:TOR on close to max settings with 40-60FPS. Is this ideal? No, but what do you expect for ~$500?

    Finally, I agree with Notarget... What do you mean "No GPU needed, you could run the onboard one on the CPU"?! That's not how it works, sounds like a Troll Physics comic to me. An onboard GPU is exactly what it sounds like, a GPU soldered to the motherboard. Integrated graphics are less than ideal for a couple reasons: 1) It is usually a cheap GPU, certainly nothing comparable to a 6850, and 2) It usually steals from your system's RAM because it has very little (or none at all) of its own.

    OP: If I were you, I'd stick with what you already decided unless you are willing and able to wait and continue saving (it'll cost you at least another $200-300 to build a system worth waiting for).
    Last edited by noteworthynerd; 2012-01-27 at 04:14 PM.

  11. #31
    Deleted
    Your argument is very valid and I agree but we'll have to let OP decide how far he is willing to go or can even go. If future proofing and upgradability is a concern then I would also suggest spending "a little bit more" but I'm not gonna be the judge of that.

  12. #32
    OP here, seems like there has been a lot of commotion going. Luckily I still haven't bought a single piece because I'm still doing research anyway so here's my current situation,
    I have the money, I'm restraining myself to a budget since the rest of my savings might go to something else, that being said, it doesn't mean I have to limit myself to $600~ comp + more on peripherals (I changed my mind abit now).
    I could go for a higher cost on a computer if it'll meet my needs in a much more efficient way, of course like ita said, the future is important, I don't want to buy a whole new PC in a year or 2 (even if it's a couple of parts worth $100+~).
    So if you guys can, I'd like to get a strong build that will run WoW on medium/high (max fps at raid environment) and will also be promising and durable in the long term (3-5 years?) while keeping peripherals out of this since I got a few good deals on those

    I'd say a budget of $800 would be sufficient. It'll end up being shy of 1k with everything included.

  13. #33
    Deleted

    There you go that should do quite well and right on the budget after you get those rebates. You'll be able to overclock easily manually or via the auto overclock to 4.2-4.4 with the included CPU heatsink. it will run your games on high settings +- no problem.

  14. #34
    Cheers mate! What would be a good Wireless Adapter to go along with this build?

    One more question, when I'm building the computer are there any tools I specifically need? I'm under the impression I need to install the heatsink in a specific way, or is everything just plug-in/click-in?

  15. #35
    Deleted
    All you really need is a standard Philips screwdriver. As for the heatsink, you'll need to screw in the backplate on the motherboard. I have no advice on a wireless adapter sorry, maybe someone knows?



    Building-Your-First-Computer-in-9.75-Steps

    Anything else just ask or search Youtube/Google.

  16. #36
    Thanks, everyone in this thread have been so helpful, I couldn't ask for anymore.
    All your effort and patience is much appreciated and won't go to waste, I'll take amazing care of my future baby

  17. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Notarget View Post

    There you go that should do quite well and right on the budget after you get those rebates. You'll be able to overclock easily manually or via the auto overclock to 4.2-4.4 with the included CPU heatsink. it will run your games on high settings +- no problem.
    Quick question, is it possible to go for abit lesser quality GPU? For example the Radehon HD 6770 or 6850, how's that? Or they're not fit for the build?

  18. #38
    The Lightbringer Uggorthaholy's Avatar
    15+ Year Old Account
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Weatherford, TX
    Posts
    3,169
    Quote Originally Posted by Frex View Post
    Quick question, is it possible to go for abit lesser quality GPU? For example the Radehon HD 6770 or 6850, how's that? Or they're not fit for the build?
    Either of those will work fine, I would suggest the 6850 personally.

    Wireless adapter - you want something that is PCI-E.

    This unit Is probably more than sufficient. Just remember, gaming always handles better on a hard wired connection.

  19. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by uggorthaholy View Post
    Either of those will work fine, I would suggest the 6850 personally.

    Wireless adapter - you want something that is PCI-E.

    This unit Is probably more than sufficient. Just remember, gaming always handles better on a hard wired connection.
    Thanks, and yeah I know that, I might rearrange my wireless/modem setup and put them in my room and just hard wire straight to the computer and keep the wireless/modem in my room and save on that wireless adapter. Cheers.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •