Electrical Issue or Bad Luck

[Kreek]

Hello everyone! Back in January I built me a gaming PC along these specs:

Gigabyte GTX 560ti
i5 2500k /w stock heatsink
8 gigabytes of RAM
HAF 912 Case
AsRock Extreme 3 Gen 3 Motherboard
Antec Earthwatts 650 watt PSU (80+ Certified(Green Colored One))
1 TB 7200 RPM HDD
Optical Drive

-All Stock Settings-

Last November my laptop's PSU started buzzing and so I replaced it. (HP) That laptop I got back in December of 2009. Didn't think much of it.

I built my PC (^ABOVE^) and didn't really have any issues. It did have one issue where it seemed the mouse was running out of battery and seemed to be disconnecting. I replaced the batteries and tried it with three other mice as well. It wasn't saying anything was disconnected and every light was on, it was just seeming to act like it was. This stops after maybe five-ten minutes and doesn't happen often at all.

At the beginning of this month I started to notice I had a buzzing noise (Same One From November) and it was coming from my laptop's PSU. Then about a week later I started noticing my desktop's PSU was also buzzing. It does it maybe once or twice a week it seems and turning it off for a while and then restarting it makes it stop buzzing. My laptop's does it every day while my desktop does it randomly.

My desktop did it again last night after not doing it for a week. I was playing Skyrim (Max Settings/Mods/Tweaks) and noticed my mouse was starting to act up again. Only my mouse did it though, my keyboard was fine. I checked my temps after tabbing back into the game for 10 minutes and nothing was over 59c. So I restarted my PC and at the profile login screen I heard the buzzing noise. I login an it stops. After Windows loads up it starts again and my mouse is still laggy.

This morning after turning everything back on, everything works flawlessly again. So could it have something to do with an electrical issue? I replaced my surge protector with a brand new one back in January with my desktop. I don't think it is as I also have an Xbox 360 hooked up to it and it hasn't done it ever, even with me getting it almost five years ago. So could I just have bad luck with my PSUs? Is it an electrical problem you think? Does the mouse not working randomly tie in? I just was wondering if someone could shed some light on this.

-EDIT- There is something else I notice to. When playing a game I hear a loud sound coming from inside the PC. It isn't coming from the PSU but sounds like a mix of a whirling/buzzing noise. If I pause the game it stops and if I exit it it stops. Also if I go into a loading screen it stops. This noise is different from the problems listed above. Don't want to get you confused. Thanks!

Summary:
Laptop PSU died last November
Laptop PSU Buzzing Again
Desktop PSU Buzzing
Mouse Issue
Wierd Whirling/Buzzing When Gaming - pausing/loading screens stop this.

[chaud]

Sounds like electrical issues are possible. Do you have a UPS that will keep the power clean? Worst case it doesn't fix it and you have some battery backup / surge protection.

[Sephiracle]

I'll second what Chaud said. Sounds like your power has some pretty nasty interference.

[Kreek]

Your talking about a UPS such as one of these? (CyberPower Intelligent LCD Series GreenPower UPS) < Newegg

If so, which do you recommend for me to try? Probably not the wisest idea to just get the best one if I am just testing it. I've never really looked into a UPS so I don't really know what to avoid/look for. Thanks for your help!

[chaud]

I have this one, it has worked well so far for me.

[ggicollegepunjab]

There is a problem in relay operating in UPS automatically.

[westom]

There is something else I notice to. When playing a game I hear a loud sound coming from inside the PC. It isn't coming from the PSU but sounds like a mix of a whirling/buzzing noise.

Better computers have fans that power off when not required. Many computers don't need fans most of the time. But fans that change speed with cooling are more expensive - are usually found in laptops.

Better computers come with comprehensive hardware diagnostics - for free. All computer manufacturers have them. But only the better manufacturers provide them. Your possible problems (including fan operation) are why executing those diagnostics should be your next step. To find actual problems or to have information necessary to get a useful reply here. Currently, everything posted is too vague to say more.

For example, dust could have built up inside those fans causing noise or restricting airflow. If your temperature report is useful, then it should report numbers from at last two or more locations.

Normal is for some supplies to buzz. AC power is converted to radio frequency spikes before converted to rock solid DC (which is why any power cleaning is completely undone by every computer). Sometimes devices conducting those radio frequencies sometimes have a loose wire that vibrates at frequencies too high to hear. And sometimes at lower frequencies that are heard. The manufacturing defect is not harmful; only a distraction. But too many confuse distractions with total failure or a hardware threat.

[Kreek]

Thanks for the feedback guys! I am going to try a couple more stuff before I try the UPS. I currently have my PC plugged up in a different section of the house to see if it stops. Then I am going to take my laptop power supply by Best Buy or somewhere similar to get them to check it out. I figured if it is indeed an electrical issue then I would only need to take my laptop PSU and get it checked. If nothing is wrong then it is indeed an electrical issue and most likely the same with my desktop PSU.

westom
Could you please elaborate? I understand your last paragraph but I don't really get what your saying. If your saying that computer manufacturers have free diagnostics that's the thing, I built mine so what exactly do you mean here? Also, I think you might have asked for a temperature report so here it is:

-Gaming Max Temperatures-
"Celsius"

CPU
Core 0: 51
Core 1: 53
Core 2: 54
Core 3: 52
Package: 55

GPU
Temperature: 56
Fan Speed: 66%

[westom]

Core 0: 51 Core 1: 53
Core 2: 54 Core 3: 52 ...
Fan Speed: 66%

Processor and GPU both have fans. How do temperatures and fan speed vary with the noise?

You were discussing a laptop. The HP comes with comprehensive hardware diagnostics for free.

Described is what can create noise. Again, to create the cleanest possible DC voltages, first AC is made as 'dirty' as possible. Unfortunately those radio frequency spikes can sometimes create noise (vibrations) so low that you can even hear it. That is typically not a hardware problem; only a distraction.

Noise as described says almost nothing useful other than it is somehow related to number of processes running (or something equivalent). Those suggestions are about associating noise with other hard facts. Then posting those relationships to have some useful suggestions. For example using temperatures and fan speed to associate the noise with things you might not even consider.

To make the problem easier to understand (eliminate the number of variables), completely remove the protector. Get power straight from the wall receptacle.

Only way to get a better answer for PSU suspicions involves a multimeter. A tool so ridiculously simple as to be sold even in K-mart and Harbor Freight.

[westom]

Core 0: 51 Core 1: 53
Core 2: 54 Core 3: 52 ...
Fan Speed: 66%

Processor and GPU both have fans. How do temperatures and fan speed vary with the noise?

You were discussing a laptop. The HP comes with comprehensive hardware diagnostics for free.

Described is what can create noise. Again, to create the cleanest possible DC voltages, first AC is made as 'dirty' as possible. Unfortunately those radio frequency spikes can sometimes create noise (vibrations) so low that you can even hear it. That is typically not a hardware problem; only a distraction.

Noise as described says almost nothing useful other than it is somehow related to number of processes running (or something equivalent). Those suggestions are about associating noise with other hard facts. Then posting those relationships to have some useful suggestions. For example using temperatures and fan speed variations related to noise might identify things not even obvious.

To make the problem easier to understand (eliminate the number of variables), completely remove the protector. Get power straight from the wall receptacle.

Only way to have a better PSU answer required a multimeter. A tool so ridiculously simple as to be sold even in K-mart and Harbor Freight.

[Kreek]

Thanks westom! I am actually experimenting with the fan speed and that whirling noise right now. Sounds like it's coming from the CPU fan which I was planning to upgrade to a Hyper 212+ anyway.

Sorry, I should have realized you were talking about the HP laptop. I misunderstood you I guess. I will run those right away and see what I get. I didn't even think about those. Guess it's not all just bloatware.

I have removed the protector and it is plugged directly into the wall to see what happens. It hasn't done it yet so fingers crossed.

I know someone in my family has a multimeter so I might try to borrow that. I googled how to use a multimeter to test the PSU and there was tons of different answers some ranging from 10 steps to 50 steps. Any specific guides or sites you know of that will teach me how to do this?

Thanks so much!

[westom]

I know someone in my family has a multimeter so I might try to borrow that. I googled how to use a multimeter to test the PSU and there was tons of different answers some ranging from 10 steps to 50 steps. Any specific guides or sites you know of

Best way to do this will result in more facts than those others suggest.

Set the meter to 20 VDC and black lead connected to the chassis. With the computer off but connected to AC, touch the red probe to the purple wire inside the nylon connector that connects the PSU to the motherboard. It should read about 5 volts. But report all three digits due to information in those numbers that is relevant.

Repeat the same measurements for the green and gray wires both before and by observing behavior when the power switch is pressed. Again, report those three digit voltage numbers.

And finally, power up the machine. Get it to multitask to every peripheral. IOW play complex graphics (ie a movie), while downloading from the internet, while powering any USB devices, while playing a CD, while searching the hard drive, while playing sound loudly, while .....
Now the power system (more than just a PSU) is ready to report problems. Measure any one red, orange, and yellow wires while the power system is loaded. Or do the best you can to make a full load when measuring those last three wires.

Also useful are voltages on the purple, red, orange, and yellow wires when the system is behaving strangely.

Report those numbers to learn of facts in those numbers that many would not realize.

Notice an important fact. Best information comes by making no disconnects or removing nothing.

[Kreek]

UPDATE: When the PC is plugged directly into the wall, the PSU seems to make a low pitched humming noise coming from it. It doesn't do this while plugged into the surge protector. It isn't an alarming sound though. -EDIT- It just started to make the buzzing noise again. I noticed it stopped after about five minutes though. Very strange to just stop like that.

I will do what you said above westom tonight. I have a few questions though: When you said, "...touch the red probe to the purple wire inside the nylon connector that connects the PSU to the motherboard", you mean to unplug the 24 pin connector from the motherboard and stick the red probe in the purple slot right? Then I would do the rest of the wires like this that you mentioned? I'm not sure if this is the way you want me to test it as you said to test some stuff with the power turned on and if they are unplugged then the PC won't even start. Also, it is ok to use the red, orange, and yellow wires left over from my build that are currently wire tied to the bottom of my PC case?

Sorry, I'm just a teenager and am still learning all of this stuff. I have never worked with a multimeter or power before but I will try to follow those steps as best as I can. Thanks for bearing with me!

[westom]

When you said, "...touch the red probe to the purple wire inside the nylon connector that connects the PSU to the motherboard", you mean to unplug the 24 pin connector from the motherboard and stick the red probe in the purple slot right? Then I would do the rest of the wires like this that you mentioned?

As I said, "Best information comes by making no disconnects or removing nothing." The minute you change or disconnect one wire, then you have changed the problem. Worse, if anything is disconnected when a computer is off but with the AC plug connected to a wall receptacle, then hardware damage may result. What you see on the purple wire explains why damage might happen.

The probe is pushed into that nylon connector to touch each wire inside.

Other red, orange, and yellow wires should be the same voltage; can be used for measuring. But easier to make all measurements at the one connector.

The hum: coils are wrapped and then sealed in some varnish like material. Sometimes part of a wire does not properly seal. So that wire might vibrated based upon noise in the electricity. Not a problem; but often a distraction.

You might use 'time of noise' to trace what in the house or nearby coincides with that noise. Or use an AM (longwave) radio tuned to a distant (weak) station. Same noise may be heard with a portable radio which then can trace the noise back on each appropriate wire. Again, not a hardware problem. But can sometimes result in rather curious discoveries.

Noise is best eliminated at its source.

[Kreek]

Don't think I have abandoned you westom. Before I post all if the information I'm going to wait and test it while it is making the buzzing noise. I think it would be easier to just post it all at once.

EDIT: I have also figured out some of the issues:

The mouse issue is actually not just the mouse. I found out if I have a wireless device plugged into the USB ports it goes in and out. It does not do this unless the device is wireless. I have a wired keyboard that doesn't do it along with other materials. I'm not sure if it makes a difference whether they are plugged into the case USB or just the Mobo USB. I have the mouse plugged into the case USB but it still does it but not as bad. The headphones very rarely went out like this when they too were plugged into the case. I'm thinking it's maybe an issue with drivers.

[Kreek]

Ok so just to be closure to the thread I am RMAing the PSU today as the reading were a little off then they should have been. The whining noise is actually the graphics card and seems to just be a model issue as a lot of people have the problem. Thanks for everyone's help on this!