I can still click the scroll wheel, but can't scroll anymore, is this a common issue, and can I fix it?
Why dont you open it up and try to fix it?
i had same thing happen. the axel/wheel is made of cheap plastic and in razer's infinite wisdom the part of the axel that meets the circular item that registers the rolling movement is weak. it usually snaps there or where the axel coming from the sensor to the wheel meet.
i gave up on razer products when i had mice wheels breaking every year like clockwork. and the new online drm system they have for drivers ensures i'll never use any of their products in the future.
If it is out of warranty you can always take it apart and attempt to fix it. All you need to do is remove the large rubber pad that goes around the outside of the bottom of the mouse and remove the 4 screws. The pad is really sticky so it will pop right back into place after, and you will need a small screwdriver set which is under 2 dollars at wal-mart.
I keep hearing all these stories about Razer products being cheaply made and falling apart. I've had my Naga for 2 years now and never had I had any issues like the ones I'm hearing. It makes me wonder how you all actually treat your products. Peripherals like mice and keyboards were not meant to be 'manhandled'. Sure they should be sturdy, but be honest people, how many times have you pressed buttons a little too hard during intense gaming moments? Try loosening your grip a bit and hitting the buttons/scroll the wheel a little more gently. I guarantee your product will not break.
I've had 3 Razer mice, all Deathadder and first two had the double click issue like many other Razer mice, last one was fine. I had 1 Naga which also failed so with your logic the fail rate is 75%, right. Also how can you guarantee someones product won't break? Many Razer products have a cheap, "plastic quality" to them.
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Had a Naga that gave up after 2year. Double click issue. Then I got the Mamba. A pile of ****. Sensor was goin mental. The click started to bug arround. Got an RMA with Razer. So far the new Mouse is working fine. I just order a Naga again. Lets hope that this will be better Otherwise I will stick with Roccat or Logitech. Maybe ill even give Cyborg a shoot.
I used to be a huge Razer supporter and was of the mindset that people just treated their mice and keyboards like crap and that's why it would break. I even posted on this forum supporting them. Well, I was wrong. In the last 2 months my Naga Epic and Naga stopped working. No matter what I did, my Naga would quit working after 30 or so seconds of use. I would unplug the USB and plug it back in and it would do the same thing. Flashed the firmware, tried on different computers, nothing worked. It's been a year and a half so it's out of warranty. The cursor on my Naga Epic would just move in a perfectly straight line up and down. It didn't matter if I was moving left, right, up or down. The cursor just moved in a straight line. I flashed the firmware, cleaned the lens, tried it wired and wireless. Nothing changed. Then, I purchased the Tiamat 7.1 and the microphone is awful. So, I will never purchase another Razer product. I now have two Logitech G600's and couldn't be happier with their software, feel and performance.
Last edited by Perderder; 2012-11-26 at 06:45 PM.
Guys, all Razer mouse products carry a 2 year warranty. The best thing to do is contact Razer support and get the mouse RMA'ed. They will replace your mouse.
I have known far too many ppl to have their nagas break quickly and often or see it here on the forums all the time. Get the logitech version it seems to take much more of a beating and just keeps on going.
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My naga molten did the same thing you guys are saying (after 1 and a half years of use). What i did to "fix" the problem was taking it apart..find the sensor box where the mouse button touches to send the signal (from what ive read...after awhile it can get all gunked up and cause the double clicking). Using Isopropyl alcohol (be better if you bought some electrical contact cleaner) and qtip....you can clean the sensor button..being slightly generous with the alcohol...let it sit for a good 10mins...occasionally pressing the little black sensor button..loosening anything that may have fallen inside there....then using to air duster with the straw tip to get any excess alcohol and loosened junk (that didn't evaporate). This also worked for my scroll wheel (the scroll wheel button never gave out...but the scrolling did)
When i first did the above steps..it seemed to fix the problem for a few months, then the same things happened again. I did the same thing again...but this time it only fixed the problem for a week or 2 before it stopped working again. It got to the point where i had to do the steps at least once a week...but each time it would fix it. I eventually got tired of doing it and just bought another one. Its been about a year with this one and its still working fine.
Before i bought the first naga...i had been using the Mamba..and i loved it..at first there were a few problems with the driver (caused the sensor to stop working..and the only way to fix it was to unplug the USB and plug it back in) After a few driver updates...all the problems stopped. Still use it on my laptop til this day (about 4 years old) and still working perfectly
As far as keyboards...i used the lycosa...it was having the same problem as the mamba...but instead of sensor...it was random keys just stopped working. Only way to fix it was to unplug the keyboard and plug it back in. Eventually after a few driver patches...the problems stopped. I ended up stepping on the keyboard and crushing it(was working on my tower and had everything on the floor). If you have seen/used the lycosa..you know how thin it is and how slight weight at the wrong angle could easy crush it . I now use a Black Widow Ultimate (been using it for awhile...and i love it)
With the automatic driver update app that Razer has come out with...it makes it really easy to stay up to date on all of your Razer product's drivers.
Last edited by imerxx; 2012-11-27 at 12:38 PM. Reason: added info
@imerxx Rubbing alcohol has an extremely low evaporation point, to the extreme that it is used in little bottles called Swimmers Ear, this product is literally a dropper to put into your ear canal and use the alcohol to force the water to evaporate at a higher rate. The actual chances any rubbing alcohol is inside the thing after 3 minutes would mean you poured it in that baby.
Last edited by Milkshake86; 2012-11-27 at 01:04 PM.
Gentlemen I have a Deathadder 3.5G that I have had for a few years now and one of the for mentioned issues arose. I my case it was the 1mm plastic hex tip that extends from the wheel into the green scroll wheel. I called Razor and they would not ship me the wheel due to trade secrets with or without payment. So those of you out there that enjoy this brand of mouse be warned the only parts that you can get sent to you are the teflon pads on the underside of the mouse that assist in ease of movement. Everything else is warranty, mail your mouse for repair, or buy a new mouse.
So all that being said I googled the issue and nobody seems to have a solid repair. They are all hot glue or trying to heat up a 1mm by 2mm piece of plastic and hoping it sticks back to the wheel and if it does, hoping that it sticks square. I love tinkering on electronics and making repairs so I took an hour or two out of my day and tore mine back apart and played with different ideas to get the scroll working again while keeping all the other functions and style of the mouse. Here is what I came up with, it requires a cheap by and a few tools all which are listed below:
Tools: Drill, drill bits(5/64 & 3/32), dremel tool with cut off wheel (file would work or a box cutter if you have steady hands), jeweler's Phillips and a marker if you can't eyeball measurements.
Parts: a jeweler's torq screwdriver (the star looking one) size T7 (not sure of the actual hex size pending I use mine frequently and didn't wish to destroy it)
Labor: pretty simple... I cut off the existing nub that was left where the 1mm plastic round hex was originally. Drilled with 5/64 drill bit thru, from the other end. It will scrap the hollow side barely but should ensure a tight and straight cut thru the other side. Make sure this hole is straight or it will effect the spin of the wheel and the click and scroll feature also this will be your guide hole for later. Grab your T7 screwdriver and mark on the shaft the length in which to cut it, then cut it. Match a drill bit to the shaft of the T7 screwdriver, mine happened to be 3/32, yours may differ. Drill your countersink into the guide hole you drilled earlier to the depth to match your overall length(counting the T7 shaft and length of original arm & hex. Shove your T7 tip into the hole, might take slight force if not make sure you have the right size hole drilled. Once in place assemble the mouse and enjoy the scrolling feature of your mouse once again.
I hope this helps, I tried to make it as short as possible without complicating it to much.