1. #1

    $1100 PC - Anything I should change?

    Been watching threads here closely for a couple weeks and I came up with this build. First things first, I'm in California so Newegg does charge sales tax. The good news I guess is that I'm about 20 minutes from a Micro Center. I already have an OS, monitor, mouse, keyboard.

    Shopping Cart: http://cart.microcenter.com/cart.asp...icrocenter.com

    CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K 3.4GHz LGA 1155 Processor (189.99)
    CPU Cooler: XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 120mm Long Life Bearing CPU Cooler (20.99 from Newegg because it's $16 more at Micro Center)
    Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Z77 ATX Intel Motherboard (94.99)
    SSD: Samsung 840-Series MZ-7TD120BW 120GB SATA 6.0Gb/s (109.99)
    HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 7,200 RPM SATA 6.0 (69.99)
    RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800) CL9 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit 2x4GB (39.99)
    GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card (379.99 from Newegg, I guess I want a free Borderlands 2?)
    Case: NZXT Classic Series Source 210 Mid Tower ATX Computer Case (17.99)
    Power Supply: Corsair Builder Series CX600 600 Watt ATX 12V Power Supply (69.99)
    Optical Drive: Lite-ON 24X SATA DVD Burner - OEM (16.99)

    That totals to $1010.90 before tax.

    This is Micro Center's weekly ad that I mainly used:
    http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/...fd#/cc7faafd/1

    This will be the first time building a computer for me outside of adding some RAM sticks to my old one. Are there any glaring problems that I've missed like motherboard compatibility or case size? I also am not sure which companies of RAM are considered good and which are notorious for crapping out. I was going to order everything off of Newegg and NCIX but the Micro Center $60 discount for buying CPU, motherboard, and SSD seemed too good to pass up and call me old fashioned but I'm fond of driving stuff I buy back home. If you find any of the above cheaper on Newegg or NCIX let me know and I'll see if Micro Center can price match and if not I'll type in the old credit card number. Thanks a lot, you all are my last checkpoint before I dump a grand into hopefully a build that satisfies expectations.
    Last edited by Arcsecant; 2013-01-17 at 05:05 AM.

  2. #2
    Epic! Idrinkwhiterussians's Avatar
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    Btw, that SD will be $90 cause Microcenter is having a deal if you buy CPU/MB and any 840 series drive you get another $20 off. Just so you are aware

    Make sure you check other online retailers, such as Amazon, to see if you might be able to get cheaper prices.

    www.pcpartpicker.com is a lovely tool that will sniff out the best prices online for you. Sorry I can't be arsed to do it as I am about ready for bed here.
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  3. #3
    Moderator chazus's Avatar
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    I have heard people say that the Builder PSU set is not so great. Maybe look into a seasonic.

    Also, Tigerdirect is currently having a sale on $105 External 3TB drives. 130 - 30 MIR. Sort of unrelated but hey, it might be worth it to get that over the 1TB onboard. Not really recommending it, but its a good price since you're in the buying market.
    Last edited by chazus; 2013-01-17 at 05:28 AM.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by chazus View Post
    I have heard people say that the Builder PSU set is not so great. Maybe look into a seasonic.
    I agree with this, for $70 you can get something better.
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  5. #5
    Fluffy Kitten llDemonll's Avatar
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    Seasonic M12II 520 is what I'd recommend

    If you have plans to run dual video cards later, Seasonic X650
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  6. #6
    Replace the PSU like others have said, I'd also replace the ram with some corsair vengeance over the crucial balistix, and even tho case is preferential for an 1100 dollar build id get something a little nicer than a 20 dollar case.
    CPU:i5 [email protected] GPU:Gigabyte GTX760 WF3 Mobo:Asrock Z87E-ITX RAM:8Gb GSkill Ares@1600MhzCase:Atomic Orange Bit Fenix Profigy Cooling: Corsair H100i HDD:1Tb WD Cav Black SSD: Samsung 830 128Gb PSU:Seasonic M2II620 KB:Razer Black Widow Mouse:Razer Naga 2014

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by demonskies View Post
    Replace the PSU like others have said, I'd also replace the ram with some corsair vengeance over the crucial balistix, and even tho case is preferential for an 1100 dollar build id get something a little nicer than a 20 dollar case.
    Nah not necessary.

    Ot: I would go for a videocard of Asus instead of Gigabyte -> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814121637

    It's slightly expensiver but it looks better imo and theyre really silent.

  8. #8
    Moderator Skarsguard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faithh View Post
    Nah not necessary.

    Ot: I would go for a videocard of Asus instead of Gigabyte -> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814121637

    It's slightly expensiver but it looks better imo and theyre really silent.
    Nothing wrong with Gigabyte GPU's actually they are one of the best out there.

  9. #9
    Okay here's an update. I bought the CPU, motherboard, ram, HDD, and optical drive listed up top. There was no deal on the samsung SSD and I've heard that the non Pro 840's aren't that great so I got the Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III instead. --> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...sh103s3%2f120g

    Turns out that Microcenter does price match so I got the CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650M 650W ATX12V v2.31 instead of the Builder Series. It was marked at $144.99 but the poor guy gave it to me for $85. -->http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...031&Tpk=tx650m

    Bought a COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO instead of the XIGMATEK. -->http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...&Tpk=212%20evo

    Looked at the NZXT Classic Series Source 210 case and was not impressed at all. I didn't think I would mind what the case looked like but when I got there and saw it lined up with the other cases I couldn't buy it even though it was dead cheap. Any advice on cases would be nice. I'd like it to be less than $100 if possible. Side panel window and/or LED lights are a plus. I know, so vain.

    I'll probably order the gigabyte 670 tonight.

    I know I changed some stuff from the original post but is there anything I should return?

  10. #10
    The Lightbringer CheezusCrust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skarsguard View Post
    Nothing wrong with Gigabyte GPU's actually they are one of the best out there.
    ASUS is more silent though, which I prefer.

    (Own both Gigabyte & ASUS GTX 670)
    i5-4670k 4.2GHz | EVGA GTX 980 | 16GB Kingston HyperX | 256GB 840 EVO | Corsair H100i | Noctua IndustialPPC
    ASUS PB298Q 4K | 2x QNIX QH2710 | CM Storm Rapid w/ Reds | Steelseries Rival | Schiit Stack w/ Sennheiser HD8

  11. #11
    Looks good to me, sad to see that you didn't get the Samsung SSD though, it is better than a Sandforce based SSD (I own one :/ ) but it isn't a huge difference.

    I wouldn't return anything, these are still quality parts.

    As for the case,
    Corsair has some solid cases 300R Windowed, 400R, 500R and C70 would possibly be in your budget.
    Bitfenix Shinobi Windowed, Fractal Design Define R4 Window or NZXT Phantom 410
    Intel i5-3570K @ 4.7GHz | MSI Z77 Mpower | Noctua NH-D14 | Corsair Vengeance LP White 1.35V 8GB 1600MHz
    Gigabyte GTX 670 OC Windforce 3X @ 1372/7604MHz | Corsair Force GT 120GB | Silverstone Fortress FT02 | Corsair VX450

  12. #12
    Patiently waiting for things to arrive from UPS. In the meantime another dilema!

    I bought windows 8 from my university for $15. It says on the DVD "pre-existing OS license and product key required" but I was wanting to install it the new PC I will build. I already have windows 7 on the laptop I'm using now and I'm perfectly happy with it and don't want to upgrade. I know I can deactivate the OS on this laptop and install windows 7 on the new one and use the W7 product key but I need the OS on my laptop. Will the W8 install even work on the new computer? If not what would be the cheapest route for me? Can you even buy XP anymore?
    Last edited by Arcsecant; 2013-01-19 at 05:17 AM.

  13. #13
    Moderator chazus's Avatar
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    You should be able to download and install windows 7 here for free (or rather, the iso/install is free, and you can just skip entering a license key temporarily). Once installed, reboot with the Win8 DVD, and from there do a "Custom Install" and do a clean install from there.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Arcsecant View Post
    Patiently waiting for things to arrive from UPS. In the meantime another dilema!

    I bought windows 8 from my university for $15. It says on the DVD "pre-existing OS license and product key required" but I was wanting to install it the new PC I will build. I already have windows 7 on the laptop I'm using now and I'm perfectly happy with it and don't want to upgrade. I know I can deactivate the OS on this laptop and install windows 7 on the new one and use the W7 product key but I need the OS on my laptop. Will the W8 install even work on the new computer? If not what would be the cheapest route for me? Can you even buy XP anymore?
    The cheapest route is to use that upgrade from a non-activated install of windows 7.
    Intel i5-3570K @ 4.7GHz | MSI Z77 Mpower | Noctua NH-D14 | Corsair Vengeance LP White 1.35V 8GB 1600MHz
    Gigabyte GTX 670 OC Windforce 3X @ 1372/7604MHz | Corsair Force GT 120GB | Silverstone Fortress FT02 | Corsair VX450

  15. #15
    Will that work? I was under the impression that to use the windows 8 upgrade media I would need to have a preinstalled and activated windows 7, vista, or XP.

  16. #16
    Well technically you are supposed to have an activated version yes, but it works fine even if it isn't activated.
    Intel i5-3570K @ 4.7GHz | MSI Z77 Mpower | Noctua NH-D14 | Corsair Vengeance LP White 1.35V 8GB 1600MHz
    Gigabyte GTX 670 OC Windforce 3X @ 1372/7604MHz | Corsair Force GT 120GB | Silverstone Fortress FT02 | Corsair VX450

  17. #17
    Alright after longer than I expected I built the machine. I have so far installed windows 7, drivers, antivirus and wow on the ssd. Is there anyway now that I can make my HDD the default for installations. I know I can just choose that drive when it asks me fr install destination but anyway to default it? Also I have TRIM set up on the ssd, do I need to do anything for it to work or does it automatically work when I delete things off the ssd? Is there any benefits to having chrome or Firefox on the ssd or will temp files eat up space?

    The motherboard had 7 standoff holes but the case only had 6 and no hole for me to add a 7th. Only used 6 hope that's okay. Can you plug in too many things into one molex cable? I have 3 led 120mm fans, one led 200mm fan and a led cathode tube plugged into one molex cable.

    Lastly thinking about getting the ASUS 23" VH236H--> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824236059
    Anyone have it? Any complaints?

    I know, lot of questions, but I want to get this done right the first time.

    EDIT: anyone know how to install chrome or Firefox on the d drive instead of c? It just auto installs onto c drive, my ssd.
    Last edited by Arcsecant; 2013-01-27 at 05:54 AM.

  18. #18
    The Lightbringer CheezusCrust's Avatar
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    You'll be okay with 6, hell I've even used 2 in the past and it was fine for 3-4 months when I finally got some proper screws.
    i5-4670k 4.2GHz | EVGA GTX 980 | 16GB Kingston HyperX | 256GB 840 EVO | Corsair H100i | Noctua IndustialPPC
    ASUS PB298Q 4K | 2x QNIX QH2710 | CM Storm Rapid w/ Reds | Steelseries Rival | Schiit Stack w/ Sennheiser HD8

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