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  1. #21
    Brewmaster g01851's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the info... I'll post again with what I've chosen

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Notarget View Post
    Read my post again, their naming isn't/wasn't the only issue.

    CX500 = 408W
    CX500 v2 = 456W

    Also as you know AMP/Wattage isn't the only thing that determines quality. Please don't compare a 12II with a CX from Corsair.
    I'm just pointing out that bashing on a CX PSU because the wattage on the 12V rail is slightly lower than the PSU's total rated wattage is stupid.

    Quote Originally Posted by Notarget View Post
    (read the first comment as well, sorted by most helpful, in the CX500 link you provided from Newegg)
    Couple of problems with the using Newegg reviews.

    1) Product reviews on retail websites are full of crap. They're only useful for gauging number of DoAs or future failures.

    2) Posted: 11/2/2011 3:19:39 AM

    3) The third edition of the CX series came out less than 6 months ago.

    4) Point 3 is cemented by the fact that it notes the CX 430 has only 28A on the 12V rail where as the newest edition has 32A.

    I'm not saying a CX line is as high quality as a Seasonic unit, but in a budget build with low system load they do just fine. That extra $20 can be used to upgrade an actual performance part.

    Quote Originally Posted by Itsredd View Post
    I really don't see how plugging in two molex connectors is harder than coloring within the lines.
    Actually doing the conversion isn't hard. Its the potential need for troubleshooting down the line thats advanced.

    Its like comparing the ability to drive and maintain a F1 car to the ability to drive and maintain a Civic. Everyone can drive both as its pretty simple but any problems down the line is more easily fixed on the Civic. Plus, the Civic is much less likely to have any high end difficult-to-solve-by-the-average-joe problems.

  3. #23
    Immortal Notarget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yurano View Post
    I'm just pointing out that bashing on a CX PSU because the wattage on the 12V rail is slightly lower than the PSU's total rated wattage is stupid.

    I'm not saying a CX line is as high quality as a Seasonic unit, but in a budget build with low system load they do just fine. That extra $20 can be used to upgrade an actual performance part.
    Okay so for starters 500W to 408W isn't slightly under rated wattage (~19%). If you go reread my post again like I mentioned before you'll see that I was talking about the CX500 and older units and you will also notice that I'm recommending not buying those CX units for several other reasons (like personal experience, burning out units, coil whine etc.).

    What $20 difference are you talking about? The CX500 v2 is $50-60 before rebate, both my suggestions are $45. My system suggestion is within budget and other than some nitpicking or personal preference I don't see what would be "wrong" with it.
    CPU: Intel i5-3570k (4.5GHz) MB: ASUS Z77 Sabertooth (uefi 2003)
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  4. #24
    Brewmaster g01851's Avatar
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    Here's what I ended up with (bought all at MicroCenter, got great combo deal with cpu+mb, so went with 3570K)

    Type|Item|Price
    :----|:----|:----
    **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80637i53570k) | $189.99 @ MicroCenter
    **Motherboard** | [ASRock Z77 Pro3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asrock-motherboard-z77pro3) | $49.99 @ MicroCenter ($40 off combo deal w/ CPU, normally $89.99)
    **Memory** | [Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial...4g3d1609ds1s00) | $54.99 @ MicroCenter ($5 coupon)
    **Case** | [Diablotek CPA-7620 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/diablotek-case-cpa7620) | $24.99 @ Microcenter
    **Power Supply** | [Corsair CX500M 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair...-supply-cx500m) | $64.99 @ MicroCenter
    | | **Total**
    | Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $426.54 (394.94 + 31.60 sales tax)

    Will purchase new Graphics Card next month (so it will be on next months budget). Will use Radeon HD 5670 1Gb card until then.

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  6. #26
    Brewmaster g01851's Avatar
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    The case is definitely cheap... will buy another better one once I'm back in the workplace. Oh, and one of the heat sink screws snapped... grrrr... it's tight on there with 3/4.

  7. #27
    Moderator chazus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by g01851 View Post
    Oh, and one of the heat sink screws snapped
    I would get it replaced, or just get a nice aftermarket cooler (you got a 3570K and Z77 board for that after all in the first place) ASAP. A person's opinion of 'tight' and physics opinion of 'tight' are quite different.
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  8. #28
    Brewmaster g01851's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazus View Post
    I would get it replaced, or just get a nice aftermarket cooler (you got a 3570K and Z77 board for that after all in the first place) ASAP. A person's opinion of 'tight' and physics opinion of 'tight' are quite different.
    yeah I bought a ThermalTake cooler for it (thats the one that snapped), but it was only $10... but the system is running fine right now. I still have the stock cooler that came with the CPU, but the reviews are not good for it

    Now to learn the fine art of Overclocking, tho I really don't need to do that (yet).

  9. #29
    Dreadlord ItsRedd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by g01851 View Post
    yeah I bought a ThermalTake cooler for it (thats the one that snapped), but it was only $10... but the system is running fine right now. I still have the stock cooler that came with the CPU, but the reviews are not good for it

    Now to learn the fine art of Overclocking, tho I really don't need to do that (yet).
    Be very careful with it. Doing it with a stock cooler, or aftermarket cooler that isn't extremely tight on there, will result in temps soaring through the roof.

  10. #30
    You'll not have much fun overclocking without a proper heatsink. The stock one simply doesn't have the ability to transfer heat fast enough to keep a CPU at safe operating temperatures.
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  11. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by ItsRedd View Post
    Doing it with a stock cooler, or aftermarket cooler that isn't extremely tight on there, will result in temps soaring through the roof.
    This is misleading. A reader might go off and over tighten the nuts and crack his motherboard.

    Rephrased: "Overclocking should be done on a properly seated aftermarket cooler."

  12. #32
    Dreadlord ItsRedd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yurano View Post
    This is misleading. A reader might go off and over tighten the nuts and crack his motherboard.

    Rephrased: "Overclocking should be done on a properly seated aftermarket cooler."
    Fair enough, I worded it improperly. I'll chalk that up to it being my second language.

    Although someone that doesn't know how 'tight' a cpu cooler should be, probably also doesn't know how to define 'properly seated'. Nitpicking.

  13. #33
    Brewmaster g01851's Avatar
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    Just as a follow up, the "1 broken mount screw" on the Thermaltake cooler doesn't seem to have affected the cooling... I can OC to 4.4Ghz and at 100% utilization only go to ~70C.

    I really don't need to OC right now, but will get a replacement CPU fan when I go to buy my new graphics card in the next week or so.

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