1. #1

    Replaced driveshaft axel - no more squeaky brakes?

    I've finally managed to save enough money for some big repairs on my car.
    It's been around ~2.5 years since it had a logbook service and even then there was stuff wrong with it I couldn't afford.
    Since, maybe a year ago, it had this horrible grinding noise when hooking it hard to the right.
    This was later identified as the CV joints worn due to a torn boot and the driveshaft axel would have to be replaced (something along those lines were specified in the receipt).
    Before I had it fixed, I had squeaky brakes as well. I put them down to the brake pads needing to be replaced.
    The thing is I had them replaced only a year ago by a friend, and almost immediately, they started squeaking again. I put it down to his dodginess (it didn't cost me anything).
    Now that I have a quiet car, I noticed my brakes no longer squeal and prior to this fix-up, I booked my car in again one months time to have them look at the brakes while I save money for that.
    I just want to know is it possible that my squeaky brakes were not a result of worn out brake pads, but rather something with the driveshaft?
    I'm not mechanically minded with cars at all.
    Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post, wanted to be as specific as possible.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Ariselea View Post
    I've finally managed to save enough money for some big repairs on my car.
    It's been around ~2.5 years since it had a logbook service and even then there was stuff wrong with it I couldn't afford.
    Since, maybe a year ago, it had this horrible grinding noise when hooking it hard to the right.
    This was later identified as the CV joints worn due to a torn boot and the driveshaft axel would have to be replaced (something along those lines were specified in the receipt).
    Before I had it fixed, I had squeaky brakes as well. I put them down to the brake pads needing to be replaced.
    The thing is I had them replaced only a year ago by a friend, and almost immediately, they started squeaking again. I put it down to his dodginess (it didn't cost me anything).
    Now that I have a quiet car, I noticed my brakes no longer squeal and prior to this fix-up, I booked my car in again one months time to have them look at the brakes while I save money for that.
    I just want to know is it possible that my squeaky brakes were not a result of worn out brake pads, but rather something with the driveshaft?
    I'm not mechanically minded with cars at all.
    Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post, wanted to be as specific as possible.
    Cheap metallic brakes will squeak/squeal. It is also recommended to cut the rotors especially if you rode them down that far. Brakes also come with a squeaker plate to let you know when they need to be replaced. It's a small piece of metal that makes a noise when the breaks are to low.

  3. #3
    Gotta remove the wheels/brakes to replace an axle.

    Mechanic probably fixed them during reassemble.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Emageht Tsoluoy View Post
    Gotta remove the wheels/brakes to replace an axle.

    Mechanic probably fixed them during reassemble.
    If he did which is entirely possible you would be charged pads aren't free.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by lockedout View Post
    If he did which is entirely possible you would be charged pads aren't free.
    Yea, that's what I don't get :/

  6. #6
    Brake pads have little protrusions on them that are designed to contact the break rotor and make a squeaking noise when the pad gets down to a certain point (so you know to replace it before it gouges the crap out of your rotor).

    It's possible he just took a pair of pliars and bent the squealers back a bit.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Gheld View Post
    Brake pads have little protrusions on them that are designed to contact the break rotor and make a squeaking noise when the pad gets down to a certain point (so you know to replace it before it gouges the crap out of your rotor).
    Quote Originally Posted by lockedout View Post
    Brakes also come with a squeaker plate to let you know when they need to be replaced. It's a small piece of metal that makes a noise when the breaks are to low.
    I used to just break them off.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by lockedout View Post
    I used to just break them off.
    They usually engage well ahead of running out of brake pad. The problem is that your next indication will be the rivets gouging the rotors.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Gheld View Post
    They usually engage well ahead of running out of brake pad. The problem is that your next indication will be the rivets gouging the rotors.
    Yeah, you get a little grinding first.

  10. #10
    Old God Vash The Stampede's Avatar
    10+ Year Old Account
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Better part of NJ
    Posts
    10,939
    Had friend that wanted me to help him change his rear brake pads on hid 2012 Tahoe. I just got some cheap pads off Rockauto.com and threw them on his car. But the old pads were freakin brand new. The noise is gone but it was likely due to the quality of the old pads or just normal dust collecting on the surface of the rotor.

    The material quality of the pad can determine if it sometimes makes noise or not. I generally buy carbon metallic or just metallic brake pads. If the mechanic changed the CV joint he most likely had to dissemble the brakes and he probably cleaned them for you. Either accidentally cleaning them or used some brake cleaner. A quick spray of brake cleaner usually fixes noisy brakes even when brand new.

    Another possibility is the heat shield. For me a lot of times new rotors or just me being a Gorilla I can bend the heat shield where to rotor is and it begins to scrap away at the rotor. Nothing dangerous just noisy. Also be careful how hard you step on the brakes. Good quality brake pads will make rotors very hot and warp them. That's when you hit the brakes and the car does the chicken dance. You can also warp them enough to sometimes hit the heat shield especially when you make a turn. I had another friend who had a 2006 Jeep and he needed new brakes. I put regular rotors with high quality brake pads and the rotors warped wihin a week. He did twice and as a result I bought cross drilled slotted rotors to help keep them cool so they stopped warped from heat. It worked and I've been buying cross drilled rotors ever since from Ebay. They're pretty cheap actually.

  11. #11
    Merely a Setback Sunseeker's Avatar
    10+ Year Old Account
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    In the state of Denial.
    Posts
    27,080
    Quote Originally Posted by Gheld View Post
    They usually engage well ahead of running out of brake pad. The problem is that your next indication will be the rivets gouging the rotors.
    I once ran a pair of brakes that far down, it cut into my rotors a bit....but not too bad thankfully.
    Human progress isn't measured by industry. It's measured by the value you place on a life.

    Just, be kind.

  12. #12
    I'm guessing the mechanic cleaned all the parts of the brakes for me.

    Thanks to all who replied, I'll cancel that booking and keep my $$

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by lockedout View Post
    If he did which is entirely possible you would be charged pads aren't free.
    If they reassemble something usually they will use all the lubricants needed. They probably also used disk brake quiet, which no mechanic would install brakes without.

  14. #14
    Old God Vash The Stampede's Avatar
    10+ Year Old Account
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Better part of NJ
    Posts
    10,939
    Also helps to change rotors and pads. Unless the rotors were in great shape.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •