1. #9061
    Can you explain the rationale behind buying a 1200W PSU for a single 7970 (even a dual 7970 setup can be run with half that wattage) to me?
    Last edited by Butler Log; 2012-10-07 at 10:54 PM.
    Intel i5 2500K (4.5 GHz) | Asus Z77 Sabertooth | 8GB Corsair Vengeance LP 1600MHz | Gigabyte Windforcex3 HD 7950 | Crucial M4 128GB | Crucial M550 256GB | Asus Xonar DGX | Samson SR 850 | Zalman ZM-Mic1 | Western Digital Caviar Black 2000GB | Noctua NH-U12P SE2 | Fractal Design Arc Midi | Corsair HX650

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  2. #9062
    Legendary! Holo's Avatar
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    Heh, 750 would have been enough for that build.

    But oh well

    i5-3570k @ 4.4GHz|8GB DDR3 1600MHz|EVGA GTX 670 FTW x2 SLI|Samsung 830 128GB SSD

  3. #9063
    got some pictures but its not much to look at. but it runs well.

    http://i.imgur.com/f04nQ.png
    http://i.imgur.com/WYTBI.png

    basically
    msi motherboard
    i5 3550
    8gb ram
    amd hd 7870 2gb
    corsair cx 600
    and a 128 gb ssd (think its kingston
    in a coolermaster haf 912

  4. #9064
    The Patient at05gt's Avatar
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    Just recently upgraded my rig:

    Antec 300 case
    Thermaltake TR-2 430w power supply (yes 430w is more then enough)
    Gigabyte 970A-DS3 AM3+ motherboard
    AMD FX-8150 octa core cpu
    Cooler Master Hyper 101a cpu cooler with push/pull dual fans
    8gb Patriot Viper 3 1600MHz ram
    ASUS Radeon HD7750 1gb GDDR5 (running main gaming screen)
    XFX Radeon HD4650 1gb (running secondary monitor off PCI-E x4 slot)



    (yes I know my cabling looks like trash, no window in the side panel so no need to make it look clean)
    Last edited by at05gt; 2012-10-14 at 08:39 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by noteworthynerd View Post
    But hey, we're just strangers on the Internet with decades of combined IT and computer building experience, what do we know?

  5. #9065
    I am Murloc! Xuvial's Avatar
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    Not bad, but what did you upgrade exactly (and what were you using previously)? At first glance your specs look a tad...unbalanced, atleast for gaming purposes.

  6. #9066
    Quote Originally Posted by Asera View Post
    Usually the best acoustics are produced when the sub is on the floor. O.o
    It doesnt have to be anywhere bass has no direction, ideally forcing a direction is best. The corner on a solid shelf or desk would be about the same as a the floor in a nice corner.

  7. #9067
    Quote Originally Posted by at05gt View Post
    (yes I know my cabling looks like trash, no window in the side panel so no need to make it look clean)
    Well, the other point of cable management is to help the air flow.

    As for me:

    Case: Cooler Master HAF 912
    CPU: Intel Core i5-2500k @ 5.0 GHz
    Heatsink: Corsair Air Series A70
    GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti DS Superclocked 1024 MB GDDR5 <-- Quality card for the price, and my plans to upgrade this box are merely to fit another one in.
    SSD: Crucial 128 GB m4
    HD: Western Digital Caviar Green 2 TB <-- This had the same RPM and cache as the Caviar Blacks, but was 2 TB for $120 instead of 1 TB for $100 and 1.5 TB for $110. Caviar Black 2 TB was around $200 at the time.
    RAM: Corsair Vengeance Blue 8 GB (2x4 GB) PC3-12800 1600 mHz DDR3 SDRAM
    MOBO: ASRock Z68 PRO3 GEN3 Intel Z68 ATX DDR3 1066 <-- This is honestly a piece of crap. It's advertised as full-sized ATX, but it's actually somewhere between ATX and micro ATX, which means my fan is covering one of my RAM slots. I should have done more research before buying it.
    DVD: Asus 24x SATA DVD-RW <-- I admit to having never used this since the initial drivers/OS install.
    PSU: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 <-- Bigger than necessary for the second graphics card I'll add later.
    OS: Windows 7 Pro 64bit
    Monitor 1: Samsung P2770HD 27-Inch HDTV Monitor <-- This was a steal. Refurbished, but from Samsung (a brand I trust) and through the Amazon Warehouse (whose return policy I trust), for $262.32 instead of around $450.
    Monitor 2: Vizio E220MV 22-Inch HDTV <-- This was around $200 retail, but with employee discount I got some hookup cables and such for half off + boosted my numbers for that month.
    Mouse: Razer Naga 12-button SWTOR edition.
    Keyboard: Gigaware keyboard you can find in any radioshack for like 25 bucks.
    Speakers: Gigaware 50W speakers you can find in most radioshacks for like 40 bucks.
    Desk: Walker Edison 3-piece Contemporary Glass and Steel Desk <-- This thing is ridiculously sexy, and it was on sale for $90 instead of around $160.

  8. #9068
    I am Murloc! Xuvial's Avatar
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    Neat build. Voltage and temps for that 5ghz OC on your i5 2500K? Really interested :P

  9. #9069
    Quote Originally Posted by Xuvial View Post
    Neat build. Voltage and temps for that 5ghz OC on your i5 2500K? Really interested :P
    She's idling right now in the 17-24*C range as I do calculus homework, running IRC, firefox, atunes, msn, stuff like that. Under full load, I don't often see her break 70*C. I think the highest I've ever seen is 76*C. (Warning is 85*C, safety cutoff is 98*C.) Voltage idle is 1.192-1.200 V, under load goes up to 1.496-1.512V. I have seen it tickle the warning level of 1.520V, but I watched CPU-Z like a hawk for about an hour and never saw the voltage go past that.

    Disturbingly enough, however, when I booted Prime95 to double check those numbers just now, I bluescreened x101 (needs more voltage). Hrm.
    Last edited by Armond; 2012-10-08 at 05:10 AM. Reason: 27 and 17 are different numbers.

  10. #9070
    The Patient at05gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xuvial View Post
    Not bad, but what did you upgrade exactly (and what were you using previously)? At first glance your specs look a tad...unbalanced, atleast for gaming purposes.
    Pretty much everything, the only pieces left from the old computer are the hard drives and DVD drive. As for the specs of the old computer, its far too abysmal to list, I literally cry when I look at the pieces and how horrid they are.

    Ya the specs are slightly off, it's a work in progress, gonna add another 8 gigs of matched ram, and possibly swap my boot drive to an SSD. Thinking about a corsair H40/H50 for water cooling the CPU as well.
    Last edited by at05gt; 2012-10-08 at 05:34 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by noteworthynerd View Post
    But hey, we're just strangers on the Internet with decades of combined IT and computer building experience, what do we know?

  11. #9071
    Pit Lord Wries's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drunkenvalley View Post
    And unless it's changed, most TVs still don't have a square pixel. What is it again, 1.6 factor on the width compared to height.
    Most TV panels should have square pixels and to my knowledge they do. Even during the (digital) SD widescreen anamorphic era the panels usually had square pixels while the actual transmission was in 720x576 stretched to either 1024x576 (16:9) or 768x576 (4:3). Newer HD broadcasting standards, namely 1920x1080 and 1280x720, are supposed to be viewed on completely square pixels.
    Obsidian 350D | Intel Core i7 2700K @ 4.8GHz | ASUS Maximus V Gene Z77 | 32GB RAM | Nvidia Geforce GTX 980 | 500GB SSD | LG 34" 21:9 34UM95-P

  12. #9072
    Blademaster ladyz2hot's Avatar
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    Pc Spec:
    Corsair 650D
    Intel i5 3570k
    Asus Sabertooth Z77
    8GB Corsair Vengeance LP 1600MHz
    ASUS HD7850-DC2-2GD5
    OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB
    Seagate Barracuda 1Tb
    Corsair H100
    Corsair Enthusiast Series TX650 V2

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    Intel I5 3570k @4.2Ghz | Asus Sabertooth Z77 | 8GB Corsair Vengeance LP 1600MHz | ASUS HD7850-DC2-2GD5 | OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB | Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 - 1TB | Corsair H100 | Corsair Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 | Corsair 650D

  13. #9073
    The Patient at05gt's Avatar
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    You guys have just Gigantic cases, I'm happy with my Antec 300 but my god the size of some of your front intake fans is a bit ridiculous. :P

    @Armond I'm kind of limited given the size of my case, I dont have the back panel room to route cables behind the motherboard, what can you recommend I could do to improve airflow/cabling look, given what you can see in my pics?
    Last edited by at05gt; 2012-10-08 at 06:57 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by noteworthynerd View Post
    But hey, we're just strangers on the Internet with decades of combined IT and computer building experience, what do we know?

  14. #9074
    Quote Originally Posted by Wries View Post
    Most TV panels should have square pixels and to my knowledge they do. Even during the (digital) SD widescreen anamorphic era the panels usually had square pixels while the actual transmission was in 720x576 stretched to either 1024x576 (16:9) or 768x576 (4:3). Newer HD broadcasting standards, namely 1920x1080 and 1280x720, are supposed to be viewed on completely square pixels.
    Thanks for the clarification.

  15. #9075
    I am Murloc! Xuvial's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by at05gt View Post
    You guys have just Gigantic cases, I'm happy with my Antec 300 but my god the size of some of your front intake fans is a bit ridiculous. :P
    Most "spacious" mid towers have a 180mm-200mm intake fan, it's the quietest and most effective fan for most purposes since it can spin at super-low RPM's and push the same amount of air as a smaller fan spinning much faster.

    I'll admit the term "mid tower" really has lost meaning nowadays since so many of them are normal-sized (like your Antec 300) going to borderline full-tower sizes (like my Storm Sniper). The biggest advantage is of course cable management, more room to work in, more room to expand, etc.

    Believe it or not, recently there has been something of a trend going on with PC builders/enthusiasts who are trying to get AWAY from huge builds and going for the smallest form factors. There's been a sudden shift towards building mini-ITX/uATX rigs, but still using top-of-the-range hardware. E.g. cramming an i5 3570K + Z77 mini-ITX board + GTX680 into a tiny case, so at first look it seems to be a modest little family PC, and then you see it pushing max settings in BF3/Crysis 2 at high framerates and wonder "dude what the fuck is in that little box?!". There's just...a crazy joy in the idea of building a cute little rig that performs equal or better to massive monsters that are 3x bigger!

    For example look at this watercooled mini-ITX build featured over at ROG:
    http://rog.asus.com/152712012/news/p...x-lan-monster/

    Can you think of anything more awesome?

    Now even I really really feel like building my own little mini-ITX beast, but I have to slap myself keep myself reminded to spend money responsibly and be satisfied with what I have :P

    Quote Originally Posted by at05gt View Post
    @Armond I'm kind of limited given the size of my case, I dont have the back panel room to route cables behind the motherboard, what can you recommend I could do to improve airflow/cabling look, given what you can see in my pics?
    There really isn't much you can do since there is no back panel routing. You're using a non-modular PSU (meh Thermaltake) so it's going to be sprouting a huge web of cables which you can't detach. The most you can do is tie cables together in bunches, coil all the cables not in use around the bottom with cable ties/etc, try to push them out of the way of airflow.
    Last edited by Xuvial; 2012-10-08 at 08:42 AM.

  16. #9076
    Quote Originally Posted by Armond View Post
    She's idling right now in the 17-24*C range as I do calculus homework, running IRC, firefox, atunes, msn, stuff like that. Under full load, I don't often see her break 70*C. I think the highest I've ever seen is 76*C. (Warning is 85*C, safety cutoff is 98*C.) Voltage idle is 1.192-1.200 V, under load goes up to 1.496-1.512V. I have seen it tickle the warning level of 1.520V, but I watched CPU-Z like a hawk for about an hour and never saw the voltage go past that.

    Disturbingly enough, however, when I booted Prime95 to double check those numbers just now, I bluescreened x101 (needs more voltage). Hrm.
    Hmm... 17c would mean room temperatures in the high 40s or 10c~.

    That aside, if your other claims are true, it would be very wise not to raise your already dangerously high voltage any more. You'll end up frying the chip.
    i7-4770k - GTX 780 Ti - 16GB DDR3 Ripjaws - (2) HyperX 120s / Vertex 3 120
    ASRock Extreme3 - Sennheiser Momentums - Xonar DG - EVGA Supernova 650G - Corsair H80i

    build pics

  17. #9077
    Brewmaster Ghâzh's Avatar
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    HD: Western Digital Caviar Green 2 TB <-- This had the same RPM and cache as the Caviar Blacks, but was 2 TB for $120 instead of 1 TB for $100 and 1.5 TB for $110. Caviar Black 2 TB was around $200 at the time.
    Which caviar green would that be? :-P Not dissing the choice, just saying.. Greens have lower RPM and cache than blacks, that's the whole point of them. (less speed -> less power = less sound and heat)
    Last edited by Ghâzh; 2012-10-08 at 12:17 PM.
    Originally Posted by Blizzard (Blue Tracker / Official Forums)
    WoW has been a CPU-bound game for much of its lifetime.

  18. #9078
    Quote Originally Posted by at05gt View Post
    @Armond I'm kind of limited given the size of my case, I dont have the back panel room to route cables behind the motherboard, what can you recommend I could do to improve airflow/cabling look, given what you can see in my pics?
    I'd honestly recommend buying a pound of cable ties and going to town. I don't have the time right now to take a pic of my box, but it looks something like a roller coaster - there's a path the general bunch of cables follows, and it obviously splits from time to time, but everything is as bunched up as I could get it.

    Quote Originally Posted by glo View Post
    Hmm... 17c would mean room temperatures in the high 40s or 10c~.

    That aside, if your other claims are true, it would be very wise not to raise your already dangerously high voltage any more. You'll end up frying the chip.
    My room is a warm one. It's 7:30 AM and it's already 72*F/22.3*C in here. Later tonight, after I get home, I expect it'll be closer to 76-80*F.

    And yeah, not touching those settings. I actually built this guy about six months ago, and that bluescreen in my previous post is the first one I've had. Not gonna touch that vcore setting.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ghâzh View Post
    Which caviar green would that be? :-P Not dissing the choice, just saying.. Greens have lower RPM and cache than blacks, that's the whole point of them. (less speed -> less power = less sound and heat)
    I know, right? I was pretty surprised too. But check it out - I spent a good ten minutes flipping between the green and the black before I decided I must be crazy and got the green.

  19. #9079
    Brewmaster Ghâzh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armond View Post
    I know, right? I was pretty surprised too. But check it out - I spent a good ten minutes flipping between the green and the black before I decided I must be crazy and got the green.
    Those are false specs. Western Digital doesn't officially report the speed of the Green drives but instead talk about their "smart speed adjusting technology" that sets the RPM according to the search / write function you are specifying. It is limited to 5400 RPM by hardware, though (which they don't mention in the technical specs). Greens are also made from cheaper parts hence the shorter warranty.

    Nevertheless, if I was buying a storage drive right now I'd use the Green one instead of the Black I have at the moment. It's loud. Probably the loudest part in my pc while idling. :< Also the boot up sound is shattering. Like someone scratching nails against a blackboard.
    Originally Posted by Blizzard (Blue Tracker / Official Forums)
    WoW has been a CPU-bound game for much of its lifetime.

  20. #9080
    Fluffy Kitten Marest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armond View Post
    I know, right? I was pretty surprised too. But check it out - I spent a good ten minutes flipping between the green and the black before I decided I must be crazy and got the green.
    I would check Western Digital's website and specification sheets and not look on Amazon.

    The Green drives use what WD calls "IntelliPower", which essentially means that the drive will use whatever speed it finds "necessary". According to tests, the max speed is 5400 RPM, but it can "boost", or ramp up to 5900 RPM if the drive feels the need.

    According to WD themselves IntelliPower is:
    A fine-tuned balance of spin speed, transfer rate and caching algorithms designed to deliver both significant power savings and solid performance.

    Basically, the drive will throttle itself when needed and run around 5400 RPM "normally" and in day-to-day use and only boost say at system startup or when the drive is used really intensely; like when installing large late, i.e. a game. It will still always be slower than a Black.

    Whereas the Blacks run at 7200 RPM.

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