1. #10561
    The Patient at05gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironik View Post
    Pretty sure I've posted here before, but I just picked up an Alienware M17x. i7 3740QM @ 3.4GHz, 8GB 1600MHz DDR3, 2GB GTX 680QM, 256GB SSD(boot), 320GB 7200RPM(storage), Native 1080p 120Hz 3D 17.3" screen, Raxer Naga Molten Edition, Creative Tactic3D Sigma headset. This machine is AMAZING.
    THIS POST IS NOT MEANT TO BE OFFENSIVE OR TROLLING AT ALL, just an opinion.

    Given that 90% of us here are custom builders, an Alienware, while a decent piece of tech (albeit overpriced), isn't gonna score you alot of points. That being said you can't really custom build a laptop and Alienware is a readily available source, so as long as you are happy with it and it does what you want then that's all that matters. The M series laptops do have a nice look to them thou.
    Quote Originally Posted by noteworthynerd View Post
    But hey, we're just strangers on the Internet with decades of combined IT and computer building experience, what do we know?

  2. #10562
    The build quality on their notebooks is pretty good, obviously not worth the price hike for the name, but still decent. Of course their desktops are almost always a poor choice when there's much better (and cheaper) custom builders, or doing it yourself.

    Considering you can spec out their notebooks with the best available mobile hardware, I'd equate buying one to someone buying a Mac just to have a Mac, not necessarily stupid if you have money to waste and like the look of their notebooks. :P
    i7-4770k - GTX 780 Ti - 16GB DDR3 Ripjaws - (2) HyperX 120s / Vertex 3 120
    ASRock Extreme3 - Sennheiser Momentums - Xonar DG - EVGA Supernova 650G - Corsair H80i

    build pics

  3. #10563
    @Biernot
    You have to read up what the "Intel Burn Test" really does. Please post any further questions as PM.

  4. #10564
    Quote Originally Posted by Ange View Post
    @Biernot
    You have to read up what the "Intel Burn Test" really does. Please post any further questions as PM.
    It's just a stress test. Doesn't change the fact that running almost 1.5v on the vcore is going to burn your chip out absurdly fast.
    i7-4770k - GTX 780 Ti - 16GB DDR3 Ripjaws - (2) HyperX 120s / Vertex 3 120
    ASRock Extreme3 - Sennheiser Momentums - Xonar DG - EVGA Supernova 650G - Corsair H80i

    build pics

  5. #10565
    The Lightbringer Wries's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ange View Post
    @Biernot
    You have to read up what the "Intel Burn Test" really does. Please post any further questions as PM.
    If you leave voltage on auto, as per default, raising multiplier will also raise voltage based on VID value. Sounds like you've done just that. Still it's pretty rare that it just works at 5GHz without tweaking. And 1.48 isn't awful, but time will tell.

  6. #10566
    I am Murloc! Cyanotical's Avatar
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    i wouldn't do any stress testing at that speed and voltage, extended stress testing like prime95 will cause severe and immediate degradation, you would notice it immediately as you would need more voltage to run at previously stable overclocks, and in general you computer won't run as smooth as it used to

    for daily use, it is okay but not ideal, be prepared to replace the CPU if you have to

    but this is getting OT, if needed maybe one of the mods could dump this into a new thread or move it to the chat thread

    i7-6700K | Z170 Class. K | 16GB DDR4-3200 | GTX-980ti | Samsung 950 Pro RAID0 | SuperNOVA 1Kw P2 | Lian Li PC-07S
    ROG Swift PG348Q | Ducky DSX | Zowie ZA11 | Xonar Essence One | Tannoy Reveal 402

  7. #10567
    High Overlord
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    Recently i got around replacing all my PC parts except CPU/HDD/DVD-RW,im waiting for Steamroller chips currently...It isn't much regarding components,but prices here in Serbia are extremely high compared to average salary,so im pretty happy with my setup.



    AMD Athlon X4 620 2.6 Ghz clocked to 3.1 Ghz (still in progress) with CM Hyper TX3 Evo CPU Fan
    Thermaltake V4 Case+Chieftec GPS-500A8 500W PSU
    MSI 970A-G46 Motherboard
    MSI 7850 1GB VGA
    Kingston 2x4GB 1600 Mhz CL9 HyperX RAM
    Hitachi 320GB 7200RPM SATA2 HDD
    Optiarc DVD-RW

    Im thinking about adding another intake case fan at the bottom,but that will wait for a bit,will play with OC first.Also,this is very quiet,you can hear it running though but its really nothing compared to my previous rig.

  8. #10568
    Not my gaming rig, but my file/backup server.



    CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 BE @ 3.4GHz
    MOBO: Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3
    RAM: 4GB DDR3 @ 1333MHz (Not sure which brand, possibly mushkin. I have 8GB of Kingston HyperX 1600 on standby, but since I haven't hit the ceiling on the currently installed modules and I'd have to remove the heatsink to install them I'm holding off until I need to remove it for something else.)
    Storage:
    60GB Crucial C300 (For operating partition)
    1863GB Western Digital WDC WD20EADS
    1863GB Western Digital WDC WD20EARX
    932GB Western Digital WDC WD10EACS
    932GB Western Digital WDC WD10EADS
    466GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AADS
    466GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKS
    PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA-380D 380W
    Case: Antec Three Hundred Two
    Heatsink: Xigmatek Gaia

    Everything is running on Windows 7 Ultimate 64, with a 5.91TB pooled mount for storage and backup using Drive Bender. Seemed like the logical step after I outgrew my old HP Mediasmart server, and all I had to buy was a case and PSU after upgrading my gaming rig this last summer.

    Router is a Gigabit Netgear WNDR3700 v4, by the way.
    Last edited by Berserker Cronus; 2013-03-06 at 12:28 PM.

  9. #10569
    @Crusader Cronus
    Do you have some hdtune number with your Drive Bender solution?

  10. #10570
    My first post with the new rig.

    So... another regret from my first build? Not purchasing the aftermarket cooler before assembling the rig. I decided it was time to add one so I snagged a Noctua DH-14 after debating between that and the H100i. In the end, the reviews of buggy software just sort of worried me on top of it being liquid cooling, so I just went with the Noctua.

    Had to disassemble everything, which gave me a chance to fix my cable management a bit. It doesn't look as pretty as it could, but it's a vast improvement.



    Taking everything apart was easy, but putting it back together was a pain in the ass. Not a lot of room in this NZXT Phantom 410 case for the cooler. It took a ton of time and using tiny tools to install it without any wires sitting on the metal and I had to re-seat it a few times for thermal paste coverage and because I forgot to re-install the RAM.




    This is how tight the fit is...




    Also added a Cosair AF140 to the top of the case. I'm not sure if I did everything right - CPU temps @ stock clock while playing GW2 are around 37-45c.

  11. #10571
    Quote Originally Posted by Ange View Post
    @Crusader Cronus
    Do you have some hdtune number with your Drive Bender solution?
    The operating system still addresses each drive individually, so it's not possible to run a benchmark on the virtual partition as a whole. Drive Bender divides individual files up between each of the drives depending on certain factors (space availability, mostly) and writes new files to the drive it chooses based on those factors. So really, the write speeds will depend on which drive is written to or read from. It's primary purpose is to be a safer alternative to JBOD, and a cheaper one than RAID. It allows for automatic and selective file duplication across any number of drives of various sizes and allows you to safely remove defective/unwanted HDDs or rebuild pools on different computers, as well as access the drives to pull files off without the software, but doesn't offer any sort of performance boost like RAID-0.

    I've been using Drive Bender as my file storage/backup solution since I abandoned Windows Home Server due to it becoming obsolete (and having severe performance problems), and while it had some problems at the start it seems to have developed quite well. I wouldn't, however, recommend it for anything other than file storage or backups, because you inevitably lose some performance (and put a lot of stress on many drives simultaneously) if you're accessing something like games from a setup like this.

    But enough about that, let me post the rest of my setup. I posted it at some point last year, but more than a bit has changed since then.

    Let's start with desk area:

    Monitor 1: 1080p Dell Ultrasharp 23" IPS LCD-LED (U2312HM)
    Monitor 2: 1080p Dell TN LCD (ST2310)
    Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow Ultimate 2013 Mechanical Keyboard
    Mouse: Razer Deathadder (older model, 3500 DPI)
    Headset: audio-technica ATH-M30
    Microphone: Zalman ZM-Mic 1

    Next, the rig itself:

    Case: Fractal Design Define R3
    Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
    CPU: Intel i5 3570k @ 4.5GHz
    CPU Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
    GPU: Zotac 560 Ti (448 Edition) @ 880/2100 (Core/Mem)
    GPU Heatsink: Gelid Icy Vision GC-VGA02-01 (Never buy a card without a good cooling solution, folks.)
    Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG-1
    RAM: 8GB (2x4GB) Corsair Vengeance LP DDR3 @ 1600MHz
    SSD: Crucial M4 128GB
    HDD: 1TB Western Digital Black WDC WD1001FALS
    PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series CMPSU-550X 550W 80 Plus

    As far as fans go I have two 120mm intakes on the front (both Cougar CF-V12HB) and a single output on the top (Cougar CF-V14HB).

  12. #10572
    Quote Originally Posted by Crusader Cronus View Post
    bla bla and pics :P
    Why dont you have an exhaust fan on the back of your case? And how is the fan of your cpu heatsink oriented?

    Just wondering if it wouldnt be better to turn the heat sunk, so the fan is pointed upwards (if that fits with the Ram ofcourse).

    For me it just looks unfamilar hence im asking

  13. #10573
    It's pushing through the heatsink. I've tried multiple methods for the rest of the mounts, and none of them really seem to make a difference, hence how I got down to three totally necessary case fans. The addition of one on the back, whether intake or exhaust, added nothing but noise, and didn't lower my temperatures at all. Neither did a second 140mm on the top or bottom. I haven't attempted to mess around with my heatsink fan since I got it, primarily because I've been within the acceptable temperature range with all of my components, but it's definitely something I could try in the future, though I don't see what difference it would make. I figure at any rate the air is coming from the back, and being removed by the fan immediately on the other side after passing through, which would be better than it fighting my sole exhaust for airflow.
    Last edited by Berserker Cronus; 2013-03-06 at 12:47 PM.

  14. #10574
    Quote Originally Posted by Crusader Cronus View Post

    As far as fans go I have two 120mm intakes on the front (both Cougar CF-V12HB) and a single output on the top (Cougar CF-V14HB).

    You need to add an exhaust fan at the rear my friend. You do NOT have enough airflow with just a single output at the top. Your heatsink is also on backwards. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees so that the fan is blowing towards the rear exhaust fan. That is the shortest route for heat produced by your CPU to exist the case. On top of that I would upgrade the heatsink to a push/pull setup as well to further reduce temps.

    Fans are cheap and you really cannot have too many.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crusader Cronus View Post
    It's pulling through the heatsink. I've tried multiple methods for the rest of the mounts, and none of them really seem to make a difference, hence how I got down to three totally necessary case fans. The addition of one on the back, whether intake or exhaust, added nothing but noise, and didn't lower my temperatures at all. Neither did a second 140mm on the top or bottom. I haven't attempted to mess around with my heatsink fan since I got it, primarily because I've been within the acceptable temperature range with all of my components, but it's definitely something I could try in the future.
    You posted this while I was responding. If I understand you correctly you have the fan on your CPU heatsink so that it is blowing towards the back of your case? You do realize that you essentially have zero airflow over the fins right? Than fan needs to be blowing fresh air across the heatsink fins in order to properly dissipate heat. You can use a push pull setup to increase cooling by having one fan blowing across the fins towards the rear of the case with another fan on the opposite side blowing in the same direction as the first.

    IE: Rear <----||||----<--- Front

    Probably why you saw little difference in temperatures. Orientate the HS/Fan properly with a rear exhaust fan and you should see a big difference.
    Last edited by Cerus; 2013-03-06 at 02:01 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lansworthy
    Deathwing will come and go RAWR RAWR IM A DWAGON
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyCasual View Post
    There's no point in saying this, even if you slap them upside down and inside out with the truth, the tin foil hat brigade will continue to believe the opposite.

  15. #10575
    Quote Originally Posted by Cerus View Post
    Fans are cheap and you really cannot have too many.
    Oh, yes you can. As I said in my previous post, there are diminishing returns where fans are concerned. Eventually you keep building the negatives with little to none of the positives. I originally had more fans, both before and after I upgraded, and it didn't add much but noise. While I will concede that it probably would decrease my CPU temperature by a bit if I did all the things you mentioned, I don't have much motivation to do so considering it will be money and noise to reduce temperatures that are already well-safe.

  16. #10576
    Quote Originally Posted by Crusader Cronus View Post
    Oh, yes you can. As I said in my previous post, there are diminishing returns where fans are concerned. Eventually you keep building the negatives with little to none of the positives. I originally had more fans, both before and after I upgraded, and it didn't add much but noise. While I will concede that it probably would decrease my CPU temperature by a bit if I did all the things you mentioned, I don't have much motivation to do so considering it will be money and noise to reduce temperatures that are already well-safe.
    That depends on your ambient temps and if you OC and by how much. Granted an entire case of fans is overkill but at bare minimum you need one or two intakes at the front bottom, one exhaust at the rear towards the top - preferably inline with your CPU heatsink/fan so that it is working with it - and an exhaust fan at the top to top it off if your case supports it. In your case - as I've mentioned already - I would add an exhaust fan at the back and setup your HS so that it is blowing across the fins and into the rear exhaust fan. Rest of the setup is fine and with that addition you'll have good, proper airflow pattern. Since you are OCing you really don't want to be skimping on fans.

    Out of curiosity - what are your idle and full load temps?
    Last edited by Cerus; 2013-03-06 at 01:02 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lansworthy
    Deathwing will come and go RAWR RAWR IM A DWAGON
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyCasual View Post
    There's no point in saying this, even if you slap them upside down and inside out with the truth, the tin foil hat brigade will continue to believe the opposite.

  17. #10577
    Quote Originally Posted by Cerus View Post
    You posted this while I was responding. If I understand you correctly you have the fan on your CPU heatsink so that it is blowing towards the back of your case? You do realize that you essentially have zero airflow over the fins right? Than fan needs to be blowing fresh air across the heatsink fins in order to properly dissipate heat. You can use a push pull setup to increase cooling by having one fan blowing across the fins towards the rear of the case with another fan on the opposite side blowing in the same direction as the first.

    IE: Rear <----||||----<--- Front

    Probably why you saw little difference in temperatures. Orientate the HS/Fan properly with a rear exhaust fan and you should see a big difference.
    You misunderstand me, because I mistyped and then edited it once I caught my mistake. It's pushing through, and retrieving a good deal of air through the back even without a fan while doing so. If air directly from the outside of the case (with or without a fan to aid it), being right next to the fan pulling through can't decrease temperatures then neither will reorientation, especially if that reorientation leads to fighting between the top exhaust for hot air from the rest of the components. A push-pull configuration would be equally pointless, especially on a heatsink that's been proven to benefit very little from such a thing. I won't be wasting my time for a fraction of a degree, or even five, when it's perfectly within limit as is.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cerus View Post
    Out of curiosity - what are your idle and full load temps?
    I get up to the low 70s with Prime95 running large FFTs, and the low 80s with that and Furmark burn-in running alongside it. Do keep in mind this is at 4.5GHz with 1.28v.

  18. #10578
    TOTALLY NOT
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    tetrisGOAT's Avatar
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    Please read the rules and stop quoting pictures without breaking the image tags.

    As for the topic at hand, proper airflow != more fans. I'm running 4 case fans in my Define (R3), two front 800rpm intakes at 5v and 7v respectively, a bottom 1450rpm one to feed the GPU at 5v and an exhaust at the back, also 1450 rpm, but also at 5v.
    I could probably make do with running only two of those; one front intake and one bottom, 800rpm at 5v both. I'd prefer not to, since the additional ones I have make no noise.

  19. #10579
    Quote Originally Posted by Crusader Cronus View Post
    You misunderstand me, because I mistyped and then edited it once I caught my mistake. It's pushing through, and retrieving a good deal of air through the back even without a fan while doing so. If air directly from the outside of the case (with or without a fan to aid it), being right next to the fan pulling through can't decrease temperatures then neither will reorientation, especially if that reorientation leads to fighting between the top exhaust for hot air from the rest of the components. A push-pull configuration would be equally pointless, especially on a heatsink that's been proven to benefit very little from such a thing. I won't be wasting my time for a fraction of a degree, or even five, when it's perfectly within limit as is.



    I get up to the low 70s with Prime95 running large FFTs, and the low 80s with that and Furmark burn-in running alongside it. Do keep in mind this is at 4.5GHz with 1.28v.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crusader Cronus View Post
    You misunderstand me, because I mistyped and then edited it once I caught my mistake. It's pushing through, and retrieving a good deal of air through the back even without a fan while doing so. If air directly from the outside of the case (with or without a fan to aid it), being right next to the fan pulling through can't decrease temperatures then neither will reorientation, especially if that reorientation leads to fighting between the top exhaust for hot air from the rest of the components. A push-pull configuration would be equally pointless, especially on a heatsink that's been proven to benefit very little from such a thing. I won't be wasting my time for a fraction of a degree, or even five, when it's perfectly within limit as is.



    I get up to the low 70s with Prime95 running large FFTs, and the low 80s with that and Furmark burn-in running alongside it. Do keep in mind this is at 4.5GHz with 1.28v.
    Ah - well that's definitely better than having it pulling air through it for sure. The problem I still see is that you have an uneven and turbulent airflow pattern created by your heatsink blowing hot air into the path of the incoming cool air creating a warmer temp gradient for your HDDs, MB, CPU etc. Since that the CPU is the most crucial part of a system (cooling wise) and generates the most heat you want that air to get out of the case as quickly as possible. That's why modern cases have an exhaust fan located right inline with the CPU and generally have on preinstalled. Having the HS blowing towards the back into an exhaust fan with an exhaust fan on top won't cause any "fighting" as you put it. The top exhaust will help create a good bottom to top airflow pattern and the HS fan and rear exhaust will take care of the CPUs cooling needs.

    That's pretty much the standard gaming case design these days so I wouldn't worry about any cooling fan conflicts. Every degree counts - even if it's just one. It's that much longer your equipment will last. Your temps are in range but that's a fairly mild OC for 70s and 80s. I'd prefer mid 60s or less in my own systems but I'm a cooling freak. I'm not really sure why since any HW failure means I get to do some building. I thought about breaking things on purpose but I figured my wife would catch on too quick.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lansworthy
    Deathwing will come and go RAWR RAWR IM A DWAGON
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyCasual View Post
    There's no point in saying this, even if you slap them upside down and inside out with the truth, the tin foil hat brigade will continue to believe the opposite.

  20. #10580
    TOTALLY NOT
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    tetrisGOAT's Avatar
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    While the "hot air" concept is true, it's always overstated.
    I've found, with the sample size being my computers throughout time, that windchill matters, internal air temperature has a slight effect. Delta temperature around the case is more important in my experience.

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