You are most likely correct, despite this Overseer XR-I being great, I've had to mount the Corsair H80 upside down due to space issues.very nice, your next upgrade should be a case
Another photo of this current TITAN Crysis3 build. In this photo it's just sitting idle in Windows with WoW running in a window
i7-5820k @ 4.4GHz|16GB DDR4 2400MHz|EVGA GTX 670 FTW x2 SLI|Samsung 830 128GB SSD
That build is literally begging for a Cosmos/800D, put under water and overclocked shitless...but if you were reluctant to bring water near $3200 worth of components, I would 100% understand
Now all you're missing (for my tastes at least) is a Jesus-tier sound setup. Gogo Xonar Essence One + Senn HD800!
Why do something simple, when there is a complicated way?
Given that 90% of us here are custom builders, an Alienware, while a decent piece of tech (albeit overpriced), isn't gonna score you alot of points. That being said you can't really custom build a laptop and Alienware is a readily available source, so as long as you are happy with it and it does what you want then that's all that matters. The M series laptops do have a nice look to them thou.
The build quality on their notebooks is pretty good, obviously not worth the price hike for the name, but still decent. Of course their desktops are almost always a poor choice when there's much better (and cheaper) custom builders, or doing it yourself.
Considering you can spec out their notebooks with the best available mobile hardware, I'd equate buying one to someone buying a Mac just to have a Mac, not necessarily stupid if you have money to waste and like the look of their notebooks. :P
You have to read up what the "Intel Burn Test" really does. Please post any further questions as PM.
Last edited by Wries; 2013-03-05 at 08:24 AM.
i wouldn't do any stress testing at that speed and voltage, extended stress testing like prime95 will cause severe and immediate degradation, you would notice it immediately as you would need more voltage to run at previously stable overclocks, and in general you computer won't run as smooth as it used to
for daily use, it is okay but not ideal, be prepared to replace the CPU if you have to
but this is getting OT, if needed maybe one of the mods could dump this into a new thread or move it to the chat thread
i7-4790K | Z97 Class. | 16GB DDR3-2400 | GTX-980 | RAIDR | 512GB Samsung 830 | SuperNOVA 1Kw P2 | RV05
Dell U3415w | Ducky Shine3 YoS | Zowie ZA11 | Xonar Essence One | Tannoy Reveal 402
Recently i got around replacing all my PC parts except CPU/HDD/DVD-RW,im waiting for Steamroller chips currently...It isn't much regarding components,but prices here in Serbia are extremely high compared to average salary,so im pretty happy with my setup.
AMD Athlon X4 620 2.6 Ghz clocked to 3.1 Ghz (still in progress) with CM Hyper TX3 Evo CPU Fan
Thermaltake V4 Case+Chieftec GPS-500A8 500W PSU
MSI 970A-G46 Motherboard
MSI 7850 1GB VGA
Kingston 2x4GB 1600 Mhz CL9 HyperX RAM
Hitachi 320GB 7200RPM SATA2 HDD
Im thinking about adding another intake case fan at the bottom,but that will wait for a bit,will play with OC first.Also,this is very quiet,you can hear it running though but its really nothing compared to my previous rig.
Not my gaming rig, but my file/backup server.
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 BE @ 3.4GHz
MOBO: Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3
RAM: 4GB DDR3 @ 1333MHz (Not sure which brand, possibly mushkin. I have 8GB of Kingston HyperX 1600 on standby, but since I haven't hit the ceiling on the currently installed modules and I'd have to remove the heatsink to install them I'm holding off until I need to remove it for something else.)
60GB Crucial C300 (For operating partition)
1863GB Western Digital WDC WD20EADS
1863GB Western Digital WDC WD20EARX
932GB Western Digital WDC WD10EACS
932GB Western Digital WDC WD10EADS
466GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AADS
466GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKS
PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA-380D 380W
Case: Antec Three Hundred Two
Heatsink: Xigmatek Gaia
Everything is running on Windows 7 Ultimate 64, with a 5.91TB pooled mount for storage and backup using Drive Bender. Seemed like the logical step after I outgrew my old HP Mediasmart server, and all I had to buy was a case and PSU after upgrading my gaming rig this last summer.
Router is a Gigabit Netgear WNDR3700 v4, by the way.
Do you have some hdtune number with your Drive Bender solution?
My first post with the new rig.
So... another regret from my first build? Not purchasing the aftermarket cooler before assembling the rig. I decided it was time to add one so I snagged a Noctua DH-14 after debating between that and the H100i. In the end, the reviews of buggy software just sort of worried me on top of it being liquid cooling, so I just went with the Noctua.
Had to disassemble everything, which gave me a chance to fix my cable management a bit. It doesn't look as pretty as it could, but it's a vast improvement.
Taking everything apart was easy, but putting it back together was a pain in the ass. Not a lot of room in this NZXT Phantom 410 case for the cooler. It took a ton of time and using tiny tools to install it without any wires sitting on the metal and I had to re-seat it a few times for thermal paste coverage and because I forgot to re-install the RAM.
This is how tight the fit is...
Also added a Cosair AF140 to the top of the case. I'm not sure if I did everything right - CPU temps @ stock clock while playing GW2 are around 37-45c.
I've been using Drive Bender as my file storage/backup solution since I abandoned Windows Home Server due to it becoming obsolete (and having severe performance problems), and while it had some problems at the start it seems to have developed quite well. I wouldn't, however, recommend it for anything other than file storage or backups, because you inevitably lose some performance (and put a lot of stress on many drives simultaneously) if you're accessing something like games from a setup like this.
But enough about that, let me post the rest of my setup. I posted it at some point last year, but more than a bit has changed since then.
Let's start with desk area:
Monitor 1: 1080p Dell Ultrasharp 23" IPS LCD-LED (U2312HM)
Monitor 2: 1080p Dell TN LCD (ST2310)
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow Ultimate 2013 Mechanical Keyboard
Mouse: Razer Deathadder (older model, 3500 DPI)
Headset: audio-technica ATH-M30
Microphone: Zalman ZM-Mic 1
Next, the rig itself:
Case: Fractal Design Define R3
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
CPU: Intel i5 3570k @ 4.5GHz
CPU Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
GPU: Zotac 560 Ti (448 Edition) @ 880/2100 (Core/Mem)
GPU Heatsink: Gelid Icy Vision GC-VGA02-01 (Never buy a card without a good cooling solution, folks.)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG-1
RAM: 8GB (2x4GB) Corsair Vengeance LP DDR3 @ 1600MHz
SSD: Crucial M4 128GB
HDD: 1TB Western Digital Black WDC WD1001FALS
PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series CMPSU-550X 550W 80 Plus
As far as fans go I have two 120mm intakes on the front (both Cougar CF-V12HB) and a single output on the top (Cougar CF-V14HB).
Just wondering if it wouldnt be better to turn the heat sunk, so the fan is pointed upwards (if that fits with the Ram ofcourse).
For me it just looks unfamilar hence im asking
It's pushing through the heatsink. I've tried multiple methods for the rest of the mounts, and none of them really seem to make a difference, hence how I got down to three totally necessary case fans. The addition of one on the back, whether intake or exhaust, added nothing but noise, and didn't lower my temperatures at all. Neither did a second 140mm on the top or bottom. I haven't attempted to mess around with my heatsink fan since I got it, primarily because I've been within the acceptable temperature range with all of my components, but it's definitely something I could try in the future, though I don't see what difference it would make. I figure at any rate the air is coming from the back, and being removed by the fan immediately on the other side after passing through, which would be better than it fighting my sole exhaust for airflow.
You need to add an exhaust fan at the rear my friend. You do NOT have enough airflow with just a single output at the top. Your heatsink is also on backwards. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees so that the fan is blowing towards the rear exhaust fan. That is the shortest route for heat produced by your CPU to exist the case. On top of that I would upgrade the heatsink to a push/pull setup as well to further reduce temps.
Fans are cheap and you really cannot have too many.
IE: Rear <----||||----<--- Front
Probably why you saw little difference in temperatures. Orientate the HS/Fan properly with a rear exhaust fan and you should see a big difference.