Post your gaming setup!

[Drunkenvalley]

Ah yes, meant the reservoir to CPU of course. Couldn't you just mount it a bit higher and make that pump to reservoir bit just a tiny bit longer? Anyway, something like that would drive me absolutely nuts when everything else fits so nicely.

I used one of the Bitspower Crystal Link tubes that I had leftover from long ago. It was the first fitting, and as you might be able to tell the tilt is caused by like two mm offset, which I couldn't tell at a glance until everything else had come together. When I realized there was a slight tilt I'd pretty much assembled it and everything.

Personally, it doesn't bother me nearly as much.

The pr0n is strong with this build. Was wondering if you planned on sleeving the pumps wiring? Also, earlier in the thread you mentioned not being able to get the pump itself to bleed out properly.. adjust the speed to max, then back down again a few times, usually flushes those pesky air bubbles out that are caught in the pump itself / rads chambers.

I know how to bleed the loop, but the pump is simply being resilient as heck is all. :| Annoys me to no end lol.

[Sinyc]

Hellooooo!

Not sure if this is the right place to ask for advice but I'm going to regardless! If I'm in the wrong place you can always direct me.

Been thinking of upgrading my videocard mainly to play Watch Dogs, Wildstar, Elder Scrolls Online and Star Citizen. And a lot of older games like Thief, Witcher 2 and other games.
At first I thought I'd just wait it out till the end of the year for the new videocards to arrive but I heard they won't be out untill somewhere next year.

What would you guys suggest?
Been looking at the MSI GeForce GTX 760 Gaming and the 770 version. Not sure if the 770 is worth the extra money if I'll be replacing it next year anyway.

Any help is appreciated!

Compared to your current GTX 580, a 760 is only 1 tier above your current card:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...ew,3107-7.html

You would want to move up at least 3 tiers to see a noticeable improvement in games. (Assuming graphics was the limiting factor in the games you are talking about).

Thats not to say that a 760/770 wont outperform your current card, but it might not be worth the upgrade cost.

[Cyanotical]

You would want to move up at least 3 tiers to see a noticeable improvement in games. (Assuming graphics was the limiting factor in the games you are talking about).

this is not really a valid statement, you upgrade when you want based on need, even if i was still running my 590's i'd still upgrade for the feature set on the 600 series and newer, also, gpu performance gains are not a linear thing, there is no reason to wait 3 generations, the 780ti is technically only one generation newer than the 580, but it absolutely smashes the 580

[Drunkenvalley]

I'd honestly argue that the 780 ti at this point is best described as three generations after. The 600 series came and went, the Titan rolled around, before the 700-series started with 780 and started filling in the gaps below.

Honestly, trying to count generations is getting convoluted. Do we consider the Titan series to be part of the 700?

[Cyanotical]

im referring more to Fermi vs Kepler, the 580 was GF110, while the 780, titan, 780ti and titan black are all GK110

[Wries]

I'd honestly argue that the 780 ti at this point is best described as three generations after. The 600 series came and went, the Titan rolled around, before the 700-series started with 780 and started filling in the gaps below.

Honestly, trying to count generations is getting convoluted. Do we consider the Titan series to be part of the 700?

Titan is I think GTX 699 somewhere on the PCB. But in the driver selection page on geforce.com, it was moved to the 700-series as soon as the 700-series sprouted :3

[Zangu]

After an RMAed Motherboard I still had some credits left at the Manufacturers Store so I decided to buy another GPU...
Fear of getting cooked alive during summer I decided to go water cooled once more after a decade of absence to it.

Front shot:

Changed my beloved Lian Li TYR PC-X2000B into a Corsair 900D more suitable for water cooling.
The Front Bezel removed shows the 1st 240mm Radiator equipped with two 120mm Fans.

Second Shot:

With Corsair gluing the Heat Spreaders to the RAM I wouldn't have been able to remove them in order to water cool the RAM thus I didn't bother.
So for now it's just the CPU, VR, MOSFET, PCH & 2 GPUs that are being water cooled - Still plenty.

On the top is the 1st 480mm Radiator equipped with four 120mm Fans.
Water Blocks, Radiators and Tubing is all EKWB.
Pump/Res Combo and Fan Controller is Aquacomputer.

Third Shot:

Lots of custom cable sleeving was done here - Used pretty much an entire 100m spool for this build.
Not very happy with the not decoupled Pump/Res combo but nothing I could have done.
Will change to a different Pump/Res combo later on that mounts to the Motherboard Tray even freeing up another HDD Cage.

Bottom area shows the 2nd 480 Radiator equipped with four 120mm Fans and slightly offset behind it the 2nd 240 Radiator with the last two 120mm Fans.

Last Shot:

Place where most of the sleeving went into.
So not going to do that again in quite a while.

Old Post showing System pre Water Cooled.

[Deleted]

Very nice and clean job you've done there Zangu, well done!

[Hellravager]

Got my speakers now to find my phone XD

[Ghâzh]

Fear of getting cooked alive during summer I decided to go water cooled once more after a decade of absence to it.

The build is looking good although that's a common misconception about water cooling. You are actually getting equally cooked with either air or water cooling. Water will only help to keep the few selected spots (e.g., cpu die, gpu die or mosfet) cool whilst the hot air exhausted to your room is still as hot as if you were on air. The only thing that matters is the power consumption.

[Zangu]

The build is looking good although that's a common misconception about water cooling. You are actually getting equally cooked with either air or water cooling. Water will only help to keep the few selected spots (e.g., cpu die, gpu die or mosfet) cool whilst the hot air exhausted to your room is still as hot as if you were on air. The only thing that matters is the power consumption.

Can't go with or against that argument as it's not my field of expertise but It sure does look ( Temp Readings ) and feel ( Hand near Exhaust Ports/Radiators ) a loot cooler and even if it's not me benefiting from this the components sure do by having their temperatures reduced by at least a third and up to half from stock values.

At least noise has gone down by a considerable amount especially during heavy load which was another reason.
Too bad it's not helping THAT much with the noisy fan on my floor now roaring like crazy to cool me xD

[Cyanotical]

Can't go with or against that argument as it's not my field of expertise but It sure does look ( Temp Readings ) and feel ( Hand near Exhaust Ports/Radiators ) a loot cooler and even if it's not me benefiting from this the components sure do by having their temperatures reduced by at least a third and up to half from stock values.

At least noise has gone down by a considerable amount especially during heavy load which was another reason.
Too bad it's not helping THAT much with the noisy fan on my floor now roaring like crazy to cool me xD

it's actually basic physics, energy only changes forms, so assuming your CPU is outputting say 50 BTU (random number) then it will output 50 BTU regardless of cooling solution, both water and air have to remove the that heat, and they both do it by dissipating it into the air

water produces lower temps because with a larger surface area in a radiator it is more efficient at transferring heat into the air, the result is that watercooling will in fact make your room warmer than an air heatsink because its more efficient at transferring heat to the air, so over time, more heat gets transferred into the air, and your CPU temp drops

[Afrospinach]

water produces lower temps because with a larger surface area in a radiator it is more efficient at transferring heat into the air, the result is that watercooling will in fact make your room warmer than an air heatsink because its more efficient at transferring heat to the air, so over time, more heat gets transferred into the air, and your CPU temp drops

What? no. The temp of your system will rise until it reaches an equilibrium at which point it will always be dissipating the same Watts regardless of what you strap to it. Just because it gets hotter does not mean it is dissipating less heat, it just means it is less effective at doing so. The bigger the temp difference, the quicker the heat transfer, hence you will always reach an equilibrium not heat something up until it catches fire. You correctly stated that then contradicted yourself?

As to whether it "feels" hotter or colder, probably just comes down to air speed and area of dissipation rather than actual watts being dissipated. My 35w laptop feels like a toaster. Small fan, small exhaust port. All makes sense, Megahalems feels like ambient air no matter the conditions and it is on top of 130w.

[Cyanotical]

What? no. The temp of your system will rise until it reaches an equilibrium at which point it will always be dissipating the same Watts regardless of what you strap to it. Just because it gets hotter does not mean it is dissipating less heat, it just means it is less effective at doing so. The bigger the temp difference, the quicker the heat transfer, hence you will always reach an equilibrium not heat something up until it catches fire. You correctly stated that then contradicted yourself?

As to whether it "feels" hotter or colder, probably just comes down to air speed and area of dissipation rather than actual watts being dissipated. My 35w laptop feels like a toaster. Small fan, small exhaust port. All makes sense, Megahalems feels like ambient air no matter the conditions and it is on top of 130w.

you can't get cooler than ambient, but the reason water traditionally is better at cooling is because a radiator has more surface area to transfer heat to the air, this means that there is less heat in the system, and more heat in the air, resulting in lower CPU temps and higher ambient temps (in a closed system), keep a window open or something and you'll be fine, this is the same concept btw that makes passive oil cooling crap

essentially, water puts more heat into the ambient air faster, that energy is now sitting in the air, making your room warmer (and raising the delta)

[Ghâzh]

you can't get cooler than ambient, but the reason water traditionally is better at cooling is because a radiator has more surface area to transfer heat to the air, this means that there is less heat in the system, and more heat in the air, resulting in lower CPU temps and higher ambient temps (in a closed system), keep a window open or something and you'll be fine, this is the same concept btw that makes passive oil cooling crap

essentially, water puts more heat into the ambient air faster, that energy is now sitting in the air, making your room warmer (and raising the delta)

If by closed system you mean the pc case would be sealed so good that zero heath gets out apart from the exhaust. In which case your hypothesis would be correct. That's not true though the heat is getting out one way or another unless we are talking about purely theoretical situations.

[Cyanotical]

If by closed system you mean the pc case would be sealed so good that zero heath gets out apart from the exhaust. In which case your hypothesis would be correct. That's not true though the heat is getting out one way or another unless we are talking about purely theoretical situations.

assuming your computer is in a room with no airflow, watercooling will heat it up faster (first hand experience, not theory), but most people (as in not my brother) just open a window or door, or have AC, or some other means to remove the heat

[Afrospinach]

you can't get cooler than ambient, but the reason water traditionally is better at cooling is because a radiator has more surface area to transfer heat to the air, this means that there is less heat in the system, and more heat in the air, resulting in lower CPU temps and higher ambient temps (in a closed system), keep a window open or something and you'll be fine, this is the same concept btw that makes passive oil cooling crap

essentially, water puts more heat into the ambient air faster, that energy is now sitting in the air, making your room warmer (and raising the delta)

That right there is a short term thing though. If you were to do an experiment by running WC vs say a stock cooler, and you let them run a particular test of set length they will both produce the same result for ambient air. The stock cooler will just have a lag because it has greater thermal capacitance, it will have to reach a higher temp before it can dissipate the required wattage at which point they will be identical. Once the temp is stable watts in = watts out. Just as the water cooler will never get so hot, the stock cooler will have to cool down after a burn so you are all square in the long run.

assuming your computer is in a room with no airflow, watercooling will heat it up faster (first hand experience, not theory), but most people (as in not my brother) just open a window or door, or have AC, or some other means to remove the heat

Are you sure you are not just overclocking the bejeebus out of said system because you have WC?

[Ghâzh]

assuming your computer is in a room with no airflow, watercooling will heat it up faster (first hand experience, not theory), but most people (as in not my brother) just open a window or door, or have AC, or some other means to remove the heat

Faster but not warmer which is what you said initially. Given enough time both systems will be equally warm because the heat flow between the two must be constant in order to the energy source not to start warming up infinitely. Although how much faster is another question which I have no idea about but I would imagine it becoming irrelevant pretty fast after you had had the PC on for even slightly longer periods of time.

[Cyanotical]

Faster but not warmer which is what you said initially. Given enough time both systems will be equally warm because the heat flow between the two must be constant in order to the energy source not to start warming up infinitely. Although how much faster is another question which I have no idea about but I would imagine it becoming irrelevant pretty fast after you had had the PC on for even slightly longer periods of time.

im not really looking at heat potential, just the fact that when you use watercooling, the reason your CPU has a lower temp is that more heat is being drawn away, and that has to go into the ambient air, so more energy in the air means warmer ambient air temp overall, we're splitting hairs though, i just wanted to point out that your room can actually get warmer with watercooling

[elezor]

My setup is:
ASUS P8Z77-V
i5-3570k
Noctua NH-D14
Sapphire Radeon 7970 Dual-X
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600MHz 8GB CL8
Corsair 600T
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Corsair HX 750W

Gonna be changed soon cause of TC: The Division