First time building my own computer

[Novodk]

Hey all, as the title says this is the first time im building my own computer.
So im a bit nervous about ordering all these pieces and seeing if they fit together i came up with this list after browsing all sorts of forums.

This computer is ONLY for gaming, NO overclocking at all.

psu: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 http://www.edbpriser.dk/Product/Deta...px?pid=4700453
cpu: Core i5 I5-2500K 6 MB (Intel Boxed) http://www.edbpriser.dk/Product/Deta...px?pid=4606781
cpu Cooling: Thermaltake Frio CPU cooler http://www.edbpriser.dk/Product/Deta...px?pid=4264735
mobo: ASUS SABERTOOTH P67 B3 Revision http://www.edbpriser.dk/Product/Deta...px?pid=4827392
hd: WD Caviar Black WD2001FASS 2 TB http://www.edbpriser.dk/Product/Details.aspx?pid=777090
dvd: LiteOn iHAS624 (Black) http://www.edbpriser.dk/Product/Deta...px?pid=4320310
memory: Corsair Vengeance 2 x 4 GB http://www.edbpriser.dk/Product/Deta...px?pid=4413467

Am i totally wrong here? maybe with the mobo, i really have no clue.

As for the gfx card i was thinking about the GTX 560 Ti, as mentioned in the Narwhal build.
But i can't get the EVGA one in Denmark, here is some examples of what i can get, the price is almost similar, so is it just a personal preference or?

Palit GeForce GTX 560Ti (1 GB)
MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II/OC (1 GB)
ASUS ENGTX560 Ti DCII/2DI/1GD5 (1 GB)
Gigabyte GV N560SO-1GI (1 GB)
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 560 Ti OC (1 GB)

Anything you would change and why?

Thanks in advance

-Novo

[Fuzzykins]

Get a cheaper Motherboard if you're not going to use all the features. The best 560 you can get is the twin frozr. You said you wouldn't be overclocking, so get the 2500 (No K). You won't need a CPU cooler, the Intel Stock CPU cooler isn't awful if you're not overclocking. Get a cheaper DVD burner. http://www.edbpriser.dk/Product/Details.aspx?pid=681999 might work.

The thing is, is that you'll regret asking not to overclock later when you want a little more out of your system...

[vesseblah]

Hey all, as the title says this is the first time im building my own computer.
So im a bit nervous about ordering all these pieces and seeing if they fit together i came up with this list after browsing all sorts of forums.

This computer is ONLY for gaming, NO overclocking at all.

Looks ok. Some games like WoW actually benefit quite a lot from overclocking, so don't dismiss it right out. But if you're 100% sure you will not ever overclock, you can drop the CPU cooler out since the CPU comes with small cooler which will be just fine. Extra cooler is needed only for overclocking. Also you can drop the CPU then to i5-2500 without K, but that means it can not be overclocked later at any point.

Motherboard is bit too expensive/excessive and you could easily save money there as well picking something more moderate. Most of the extra features that board has compared to half price models are used for overclocking and stuff.

As for the gfx card i was thinking about the GTX 560 Ti, as mentioned in the Narwhal build.
But i can't get the EVGA one in Denmark, here is some examples of what i can get, the price is almost similar, so is it just a personal preference or?

Mostly up to personal preference. I'd get the MSI rather than EVGA in any case, since it has the best cooler. Produces least noise and heat.

[Deleted]

I would advise keeping the cooler. Any heat you can remove from your system, even if you aren't overclocking, will still increase your CPU speed. PC parts run faster when cooler.

Also because your CPU is overall cooler, the inside of your case will be cooler as well which will slightly improve your overall component temperature inside.

[Novodk]

Get a cheaper Motherboard if you're not going to use all the features. The best 560 you can get is the twin frozr. You said you wouldn't be overclocking, so get the 2500 (No K). You won't need a CPU cooler, the Intel Stock CPU cooler isn't awful if you're not overclocking. Get a cheaper DVD burner. http://www.edbpriser.dk/Product/Details.aspx?pid=681999 might work.

The thing is, is that you'll regret asking not to overclock later when you want a little more out of your system...

Thanks for all the info, do you have any mobo in mind? i would prefer a asus, but i don't know what features i need and which i don't need. so a stock cpu cooler is okay if you'r not overclocking? (logic i guess if you overclock everything should get hotter, i think )

*EDIT*
okay i keep the cooler, it's cheep anyways

[vesseblah]

I would advise keeping the cooler. Any heat you can remove from your system, even if you aren't overclocking, will still increase your CPU speed. PC parts run faster when cooler.

Also because your CPU is overall cooler, the inside of your case will be cooler as well which will slightly improve your overall component temperature inside.

Big logic fails there. The computer will run at exactly same speed with any cooler, there's no magical speedup when it's lower temperature. You only might get lower speed if the temps get very high, but that's not going to be an issue in Denmark.

Also CPU fan will not magically make the heat inside computer case disappear, it will only move it from the CPU on to other components. Case fans help more.

---------- Post added 2011-03-26 at 06:44 PM ----------

Check also http://www.komplett.dk/ some parts might be cheaper there.

[nwo]

The computer will run at exactly same speed with any cooler, there's no magical speedup when it's lower temperature. You only might get lower speed if the temps get very high, but that's not going to be an issue in Denmark.

Temperature is one of the factors that affect turbo boost. Higher temp=lower turbo boost. At least that's how it works on my SB laptop. I doubt you will have heat issues using stock cooling a desktop, especially if you have decent case airflow, live in Denmark, and are not overclocking.

[Novodk]

Big logic fails there. The computer will run at exactly same speed with any cooler, there's no magical speedup when it's lower temperature. You only might get lower speed if the temps get very high, but that's not going to be an issue in Denmark.

Also CPU fan will not magically make the heat inside computer case disappear, it will only move it from the CPU on to other components. Case fans help more.

okay i will skip the cpu cooler. And yes i have checked komplett, but if it is possible i would rather pay 100-200 dkk more and get everything from the same place
Anyone wanna suggest another mobo?

[Deleted]

Big logic fails there. The computer will run at exactly same speed with any cooler, there's no magical speedup when it's lower temperature. You only might get lower speed if the temps get very high, but that's not going to be an issue in Denmark.

Also CPU fan will not magically make the heat inside computer case disappear, it will only move it from the CPU on to other components. Case fans help more.

---------- Post added 2011-03-26 at 06:44 PM ----------

Check also http://www.komplett.dk/ some parts might be cheaper there.

If your CPU is at 30c, the heat coming off is around 30c. Meaning the heat being blown off of your CPU is around 30c.
If you have a shitty fan and your CPU is at 50c, then the heat coming off of your CPU (and into your case) is around 50c.

and my logic fails? It works the same way as a radiator in a house (without the fan). Imagine your CPU is the radiator in your house, the hotter the radiator the hotter the house is going to get.

Novodk. Getting a non standard CPU cooler will mean the CPU cooler will be able to cool down your CPU more effectively meaning you will be able to have your fan at lower speeds and get the same results as a stock cooler. And yes, CPUs prefer lower temperatures.

My point is if you are using your CPU for most new games, most of the time the stock cooler won't be good enough to keep your CPU as cool as it should be for efficient CPU usage. Heat is a CPU Achilles tendon don't let anyone tell you differently.

[vesseblah]

If your CPU is at 30c, the heat coming off is around 30c. Meaning the heat being blown off of your CPU is around 30c.
If you have a shitty fan and your CPU is at 50c, then the heat coming off of your CPU (and into your case) is around 50c.

You still didn't get it. I'm assuming you're familiar with the conservation of energy principle.

If amount x of energy goes into the CPU, it will not magically disappear anywhere. It either warms the CPU or it warms the heatsink attached to the CPU. Bigger/better heatsink means less heat will be on the CPU itself and more on the heatsink, but it will remain inside the case unless there's case fans to move the heat out. For other components such as HDD or graphics card it does not matter one bit if it's the CPU itself or the heatsink which is giving out the heat, because it will always be the exact same amount.

Because of conservation of energy there must be a fan to move the heat from the heatsink into air or the heatsink would store all the heat until it reaches the same temperature as the CPU and both will start rising in temperature at the same speed eventually reaching the point where the CPU will malfunction.

[Scoobasteve1226]

I would go with the Asus GPU or the Twin Frozr, those are the best two out of all of them. The Asus is louder, but gets better performance, and the Twin Frozr is quieter and runs cooler. Your choice there.
But the build looks good. I would recommend keeping the cooler, or getting a cooler master hyper 212+, and just overclocking a little. Even if its just to 4.0, it will get you MUCH more performance for your money.

[Deleted]

You still didn't get it. I'm assuming you're familiar with the conservation of energy principle.

If amount x of energy goes into the CPU, it will not magically disappear anywhere. It either warms the CPU or it warms the heatsink attached to the CPU. Bigger/better heatsink means less heat will be on the CPU itself and more on the heatsink, but it will remain inside the case unless there's case fans to move the heat out. For other components such as HDD or graphics card it does not matter one bit if it's the CPU itself or the heatsink which is giving out the heat, because it will always be the exact same amount.

Because of conservation of energy there must be a fan to move the heat from the heatsink into air or the heatsink would store all the heat until it reaches the same temperature as the CPU and both will start rising in temperature at the same speed eventually reaching the point where the CPU will malfunction.

Yes I do get it, but you are forgetting that you can have more heat extracted with a better cooler. You are assuming that the heat is extracted at the same speed which is false. If you have lots of air at 30c, its not going to magically turn into 50c because there is more of it. If the heat is extracted at a lower speed, THEN the heat builds up causing higher temps. A better cooler is able to take the heat away at a cooler temp so the overall heat inside the case is lower.

With your theory if every component in the PC has incredible cooling the heat inside the PC will be the same which is completely false.

Better cooling = Heat extracted quicker (at a lower temp) = Cooler air inside the case.

[vesseblah]

Yes I do get it, but you are forgetting that you can have more heat extracted with a better cooler. You are assuming that the heat is extracted at the same speed which is false. If you have lots of air at 30c, its not going to magically turn into 50c because there is more of it. If the heat is extracted at a lower speed, THEN the heat builds up causing higher temps. A better cooler is able to take the heat away at a cooler temp so the overall heat inside the case is lower.

With your theory if every component in the PC has incredible cooling the heat inside the PC will be the same which is completely false.

You still don't get it.

The heat that gets transfered to heatsink and blown off will be in the air inside the case. It does not matter if the air inside the case is heated by transfering it off from the heatsink or the CPU, it's still exactly same amount of heat regardless. With bigger CPU heatsink and better CPU fan only the CPU will be cooler while other components heat up more, and it needs to be compensated with better case fans that actually move the hot air outside the case.

[Theonen]

Also you can drop the CPU then to i5-2500 without K, but that means it can not be overclocked later at any point

Now now.... Do you know what BCLK is? WoW is such a CPU dependant game that I would strongly suggest overclocking that i5 2500k, you can get sick frequencies out of it, and it's actually very simple as you have a unlocked multiplier (if you buy the version with K at the end of the name) so you only have to watch CPU multiplier and vcore, might aswell do it as your buying a new cooler still

Also why would Intel shoot themselves in the foot supplying a cooler not sufficient to use their own technology with the Turbo Boost? This is where your logic fails clampy. They are a multi billion dollar company and believe me they wouldn't do that. And yes, vesseblah is right, the CPU fan only takes away the heat from the CPU, and not extracting it giving lower temps inside the case. Try disabling all your case fans and see.

The PC will run at the same frequency until very high temperatures (90+).

[vesseblah]

Now now.... Do you know what BCLK is?

Not a good idea to touch that for a person who's already afraid to do any OC. It's not really an option since it's 100x easier to fuck it up, and will give only very small boost compared to multiplier tweaking.

[Theonen]

Not a good idea to touch that for a person who's already afraid to do any OC. It's not really an option since it's 100x easier to fuck it up, and will give only very small boost compared to multiplier tweaking.

How so? When you up the BCLK you actually overclock the other components aswell resulting in a higher performance boost as you can still boost the multiplier after you raised the BCLK to get even more out of the CPU. When you OC using BCLK you OC the RAM, to a certain degree your PCI slots and everything that has to do with the uncore aswell as your CPU. Also it's not easy to fuck up, you would have to churn very high voltages into it for it to fry, as long as you use common sense and stay within reasonable voltages you should be fine, as long as you read up first and preferably follow a guide. However I do agree that he shouldn't touch BCLK when he doesn't know what he's doing and is afraid to OC :> Just proving my point about it still being possible to OC and that it gives more performance boost OC'ing by using the BCLK

[vesseblah]

How so? When you up the BCLK you actually overclock the other components aswell

Also it's not easy to fuck up, you would have to churn very high voltages into it for it to fry,

Touching BCLK will not probably fry anything indeed, but because you overclock other components as well, it causes easily instability in all those other components that is lot harder to diagnose and stress-test. You can easily stress-test CPU with linpack after tweaking multiplier, but how do you make sure your PCI cards or RAM stays 100% stable after overclocking BCLK?

Bigger issue with it is that it's futile as the primary means of OC in Sandy Bridge. Let's pretend you can up BCLK to 105 without breaking anything. Your final speed on i5-2500K will be 3465MHz which is rather pathetic 150MHz speed increase with tweaking voltages and using lot more expensive OC-able RAM, when you could up the multiplier from 33 to 38 without making any other changes and gain 500MHz easier and with no stability issues whatsoever.

[Theonen]

Touching BCLK will not probably fry anything indeed, but because you overclock other components as well, it causes easily instability in all those other components that is lot harder to diagnose and stress-test. You can easily stress-test CPU with linpack after tweaking multiplier, but how do you make sure your PCI cards or RAM stays 100% stable after overclocking BCLK?

Bigger issue with it is that it's futile as the primary means of OC in Sandy Bridge. Let's pretend you can up BCLK to 105 without breaking anything. Your final speed on i5-2500K will be 3465MHz which is rather pathetic 150MHz speed increase with tweaking voltages and using lot more expensive OC-able RAM, when you could up the multiplier from 33 to 38 without making any other changes and gain 500MHz easier and with no stability issues whatsoever.

Well, I have to say "now now" again Why would you change more things at a time? If you don't do that, you know exactly what's causing instability. When I overclocked my i7 950 to 4 GHz I drove down the uncore/QPI/DRAM multipliers to isolate the BCLK to see how high my board would max out or if I could do 200 BCLK which was my goal, if the PC wouldn't boot I upped the uncore voltage until it would boot or I hit my maximum safe volt (1.45 for uncore for me), doing 3 IBT runs at maximum or close (- 100 maybe) to maximum to see that it's reasonably stable. Then I do the same with my RAM, I up the multiplier, and raise the BCLK bit by bit doing 3 IBT runs for each. Then last I do my CPU, get it to pass 3 IBT runs at my desired frequency and run 12+ hours of stability testing. Not hard to diagnose.

Also what's stopping you from upping the multiplier when you have modified the BCLK? Having a higher BCLK doesn't mean you can't use the unlocked multi And as I dont see if you answered it in your post, do you agree BCLK overclocking would give a higher performance boost as it actually will? :>

[Cilraaz]

Now now.... Do you know what BCLK is?

Upping BCLK on a Sandy Bridge system? Good luck with that. I hope you don't plan to enjoy it for too long.

When I overclocked my i7 950 to 4 GHz

... You weren't overclocking a Sandy Bridge system.

Seriously, don't give advice if you don't understand the advice you're giving. The Sandy Bridge platform tied so many things back into the BCLK that adjusting it can be extremely hazardous (or, at best, just have a huge effect on stability).

[Fuzzykins]

Let's not argue about overclocking in this man's thread. Someone recommend him a cheap 1155 motherboard that supports PCI-E X16 and lets move on with our lives.