Pick this appart for me.

[Kouki]

1 x Antec - Nine Hundred II Gamer Case $109.99
1 x Intel - Core™ i7-2600K Processor, 3.40GHz w/ 8MB Cache $304.99
1 x Noctua Nh-D14 $80.99
1 x Asus - P8Z68-V LE w/ Dual DDR3 1600, 7.1 Audio, Gigabit Lan, PCI-E, Quad CrossFireX $139.99
1 x Kingston - HyperX Genesis 8GB DDR3-1600MHz CL9 Dual Channel Kit (2 x 4GB) w/ Intel XMP $64.99
1 x Intel - SSD 510 Series SATA III Solid State Drive Kit, 120GB w/ Adapter $289.99
1 x Seagate - 3TB Barracuda XT SATA III w/ NCQ, 64MB Cache $179.99
1 x HIS - Radeon HD 6870 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E w/ Dual DVI, HDMI, Dual DisplayPort $209.99
1 x Cooler Master - Silent Pro M 850W Modular Power Supply $149.99
1 x Asus - VE276Q 27in Widescreen LCD, Black w/ HDMI, DisplayPort, Speakers $309.99

[Adappy]

What games/uses?

Personally, I'd bump down to a i5 2500k and get a more powerful GPU (like a 6950 or a GTX 560Ti), but if you do rendering/video stuff that can fully use the hyperthreading in the 2600k often, (BF3 is also rumored to benefit from it as well, obviously it's too early to tell if the i7 would be worth the extra cost for that game alone though), the CPU/GPU you selected would be fine.

[Kouki]

What games/uses?

Personally, I'd bump down to a i5 2500k and get a more powerful GPU (like a 6950 or a GTX 560Ti), but if you do rendering/video stuff that can fully use the hyperthreading in the 2600k often, (BF3 is also rumored to benefit from it as well, obviously it's too early to tell if the i7 would be worth the extra cost for that game alone though), the CPU/GPU you selected would be fine.

You read my mind for the most part, i don't think i could bring my self to put an i5 in, but at least 1155 is the standard now so you could start i5 and go i7 later.

[Backreaper]

Nine Hundred II Gamer Case $109.99

how about getting a $40 case, getting a better gpu and have money left for cake to celebrate your new computer?

[Wries]

P8XXX LE (and some M-ATX versions) has a rather poor VRM design with only 4+2 power phases and it's reflected in the BIOS with fewer overclocking options as a result.
Also since it's a pricy build in general, going with the lightest board (what without SLI support and only xfire x16/x4) seem like a weird fit. P8P67/Z68 PRO at least, IMO.


I have an Intel 510 myself and I love it yes yes but I've been hearing a lot of good about its twin brother, the Crucial M4, which you can get for a lower price.

[Zkeya]

If you can afford some more $, you could get a 560Ti/6950. They're around 250$. Also I'd get a WD Caviar black 1TB and a Caviar Green 2 TB for storage, but that's personal preference (altough I think WD disks are faster)

[Phishy714]

IF all you are going to do is game with this setup, no encoding or rendering, then you will NOT notice a difference between the i5 and i7 performance wise. Like Adappy said, take that $100 and throw it on that 6870 to get yourself a GTX 570 instead. This way, you can get another 570 down the road and actually JUSTIFY the size of that PSU, because right now its overkill in more ways than one. If you are going to be stubborn about the gpu and don't plan on xfiring in the future, a simple pus like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341018 will do. I take it you want to keep it modular, but you can get better ones for less than that.

[Wries]

I think 2x 2TB is cheaper than 1x 3TB drive, or at least that seagate drive in particular. Remember SATA III 6Gb/s is close to useless for mechanical drives (it'd be small stuff from the cache that could make ANY use of it) so don't fall for.

[Riff]

Don't scrimp on the case, you'll want good cooling and great cable management - not to mention that working in a good case is much easier than a bad one.

Also, I know this won't be a popular choice - but do look at AMD CPUs/MBs, the performance loss would be negligible compared to the money saved. I mean you're spending over $300 on the CPU alone...think about it.

[llDemonll]

US Configuration (using newegg.com)
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz
MB: [Z68] ASUS P8Z68-V Pro ATX
GPU: MSI Twin Frozr II GeForce GTX 560 Ti
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1600
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA III
SSD: Crucial M4 64GB SATA III
PSU: SeaSonic X650 Gold 650W 80 PLUS Gold
CPUHS: Noctua NH-D14
CASE: Antec Nine Hundred Mid Tower
CDROM: ASUS DVD Burner
Total Price: $1302 USD
Configure More

Cheaper. Way better for your needs. Just add the monitor in there

[Ominouscloud]

I'm using the Antec Nine Hundred myself... looks awesome, keeps things cool with all the fans, but cable management was a joke, you have to get pretty creative there.

[Deleted]

I'm using the Antec Nine Hundred myself... looks awesome, keeps things cool with all the fans, but cable management was a joke, you have to get pretty creative there.

The 902, which the op listed, actually has a bit more room for cable management than the original 900. With a modular psu there's enough space to go by behind the backplate.

[Drunkenvalley]

Cheaper. Way better for your needs. Just add the monitor in there

Could drop to a slightly cheaper Seasonic X series variant, couldn't he/she?

[llDemonll]

could, but i'm in love with the seasonic psu's haha

[Drunkenvalley]

I'm not saying to skip Seasonic X series, but isn't there a lower-watt version? 520w?

[Optochip]

I've had the original Antec 900 case since it came out, and for as much as I may really like the case I'd say take a look at the Cooler Master Storm Scout.

For $20 less than the cost of the 900, and $30 less than the cost of a 900 II, it's a beast of a case. Built a computer for a coworker using the Storm Scout and after installing everything I can say it has much more room inside for installation/cable routing, the dust filter for the front intake fan is nice, tool-less installation is always a big plus, and the airflow is just as good.

Just my $.02

[Drunkenvalley]

I don't see how the Scout is good. It looks prone to poor thermal abilities and completely lacks cable-management.

[Kouki]

P8XXX LE (and some M-ATX versions) has a rather poor VRM design with only 4+2 power phases and it's reflected in the BIOS with fewer overclocking options as a result.
Also since it's a pricy build in general, going with the lightest board (what without SLI support and only xfire x16/x4) seem like a weird fit. P8P67/Z68 PRO at least, IMO.


I have an Intel 510 myself and I love it yes yes but I've been hearing a lot of good about its twin brother, the Crucial M4, which you can get for a lower price.

I thought for the z68 cache memory feature it had to be the 510 drives.

---------- Post added 2011-09-09 at 09:29 AM ----------

P8XXX LE (and some M-ATX versions) has a rather poor VRM design with only 4+2 power phases and it's reflected in the BIOS with fewer overclocking options as a result.
Also since it's a pricy build in general, going with the lightest board (what without SLI support and only xfire x16/x4) seem like a weird fit. P8P67/Z68 PRO at least, IMO.


I have an Intel 510 myself and I love it yes yes but I've been hearing a lot of good about its twin brother, the Crucial M4, which you can get for a lower price.

The Delux p8z68 has a 16 phase power.

[Wries]

I thought for the z68 cache memory feature it had to be the 510 drives.

Nah on the contrary, the 510 series drive is a bad bad choice since the cache feature uses up to 64GB of an SSD while the smallest 510 series is a 120GB drive. So it would be a major waste. Don't think there's a restriction on which brand/model of drive you can use with it, but I think they had their own 20/40GB models in mind.

With a 120GB+ SSD drive, it shouldn't be a problem for most people to just use it as it is (and enjoy greater performance) without involving any SSD caching feature.

The Delux p8z68 has a 16 phase power.

Yeah, I went with one of those and it's quality from top to bottom, but the LE that is still on your list has 4 phase.

[llDemonll]

Nah on the contrary, the 510 series drive is a bad bad choice since the cache feature uses up to 64GB of an SSD while the smallest 510 series is a 120GB drive. So it would be a major waste. Don't think there's a restriction on which brand/model of drive you can use with it, but I think they had their own 20/40GB models in mind.

With a 120GB+ SSD drive, it shouldn't be a problem for most people to just use it as it is (and enjoy greater performance) without involving any SSD caching feature.

Whatever isn't used in the cache is freed up as a partition so you can put whatever you want on it