Ryzen 7 3700/3800 vs Ryzen 5 5600

[Armourboy]

Well it's new system time as mine has gone about as long as it can go. So basically after doing some research and trying to find the answer, it seems to be pretty split opinion wise.

Current Ryzen 7 offers better capability on multi-threading due to the increased cores, but the new 5600 offers more umph for single core.

90% of the time it will be used to play WoW and other MMO's.

Secondary if someone doesn't mind getting into is 5700xt vs 2060 super. I can't afford to step up to the newer ones just yet, but looking for something solid in that ballpark price wise. I'll be sticking with 1080 for the near future.

[kukkamies]

I went for 5600X. Much much better for games, and only a little bit worse for multi core. Currently can get cheap B550 boards too since Black Friday and MSI has cashback campaign for a few days more.

Waiting for the new 3060Ti to come out next week, should be priced around 500 euros and way better than 5700XT or 2060 super.

[Sunderella]

If only for gaming, the 5600 should be more than enough for a few years. From what I can see, it basically matches the 3700x on most multicore stuff while being straight faster in games so I don't think you will notice the difference between them. If you can find one at a reasonable price, of course.

Also, the 5700XT way faster than a 2060 super. Those are not even on the same league.

5600 + 5700XT should be a killer combo.

[Armourboy]

If only for gaming, the 5600 should be more than enough for a few years. From what I can see, it basically matches the 3700x on most multicore stuff while being straight faster in games so I don't think you will notice the difference between them. If you can find one at a reasonable price, of course.

Also, the 5700XT way faster than a 2060 super. Those are not even on the same league.

5600 + 5700XT should be a killer combo.

Well the 5700 is more expensive as well but just looking at the benchmarks I was seeing wasn't sold or not if it was worth it. The 5600xt appeared to be a step down from both, but once again cheaper than both. I'm not super set on video card so suggestions are welcome. I just know the newer cards push the price range I'd prefer to stay out of.

I'm going to essentially be buying 2 at roughly the same time so don't want to get too crazy. I do have some time so not in a massive hurry if something new is coming out in a few weeks I should just wait for.

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I went for 5600X. Much much better for games, and only a little bit worse for multi core. Currently can get cheap B550 boards too since Black Friday and MSI has cashback campaign for a few days more.

Waiting for the new 3060Ti to come out next week, should be priced around 500 euros and way better than 5700XT or 2060 super.

Cool might just wait and see what that looks like.

[LordTakeo]

5600 cpu is definitely the way to go, as honestly, I struggle to even use half of my cores on my 3700x.

It uses also alot of more tech, and can make a big use out of pcie 4.0 slots for gpu's, and has full cross access between the cores.

I'd go deeper into it, but alas, make sure you got 3600 clockrate ddr4 ram alongside the new cpu, since amd likes their ram fast.

[Armourboy]

5600 cpu is definitely the way to go, as honestly, I struggle to even use half of my cores on my 3700x.

It uses also alot of more tech, and can make a big use out of pcie 4.0 slots for gpu's, and has full cross access between the cores.

I'd go deeper into it, but alas, make sure you got 3600 clockrate ddr4 ram alongside the new cpu, since amd likes their ram fast.

Thanks for the info on the RAM. Any particular brand or does it really matter?

[Sunderella]

Maybe you could look for for a regular, non XT 5700. It should be more or less on par with the 2060S I think and it should be cheaper than both.

[Azortharion]

5600X is the better buy, there's no contest.

As for what RAM to get with it, a good sensible option without considering overclocking would be a 3600C16 kit like this.

The brand does not strictly matter, as the common "RAM Brands" actually just buy RAM from Samsung/Micron/Hynix and put their own shell on it and make a few adjustments. In many cases, two 3600C16 kits from completely different brands will actually be identical products underneath.

[Armourboy]

Thanks for the help guys! If I could get one or two more questions in. I know this stuff is pretty basic but I haven't really been in the PC world in a long time. I mean the last PC I built SSD's weren't even a thing.

So size and speed of a main SSD? They seem to vary across different brands, and heck even within the same brand. Is there really that much difference or is it just a " hey look at our big numbers " type of thing?

PSU. In the past I've always gone for 700- 800w minimum just so I wouldn't have issues with new tech in the future if and when I did an upgrade. Seeing lots of systems out there with 600w PSU's and that just seems rather low. Just more or less making sure nothing has changed where I should rework my thinking.

[Azortharion]

Thanks for the help guys! If I could get one or two more questions in. I know this stuff is pretty basic but I haven't really been in the PC world in a long time. I mean the last PC I built SSD's weren't even a thing.

So size and speed of a main SSD? They seem to vary across different brands, and heck even within the same brand. Is there really that much difference or is it just a " hey look at our big numbers " type of thing?

PSU. In the past I've always gone for 700- 800w minimum just so I wouldn't have issues with new tech in the future if and when I did an upgrade. Seeing lots of systems out there with 600w PSU's and that just seems rather low. Just more or less making sure nothing has changed where I should rework my thinking.

There is a lot to know about SSD's if you wanna "minmax" them. TLC, QLC, MLC, SLC and more.

However, unless you're specifically doing IO-intensive workload, you will not even notice the difference between a SATA SSD (up to 550 MB/s sequential) and a good Nvme/M.2 SSD (up to 3500 maybe higher) even though their rated speeds are so far apart.

This is because day-to-day SSD speed and benefit does not hinge on the sequential read/write speed, which essentially just says how fast the drive can move a gigantic file around. Loading games, opening programs and using your PC usually revolves around thousands of comparatively tiny files. You can look at some SSD specs such as Random 4K Read/Write to get an idea of this, but the best way to pick a strictly gaming SSD is probably to look at reviews and see their actual load time benchmarks. Most game reads/writes are in the ~32KB file size range.

However, larger SSD's are faster than smaller SSD's, generally speaking. However, this benefit mostly tails off after the 500GB point or so. I wouldn't buy a modern SSD smaller than 500 gigs anyway.

For most people I tend to recommend getting the cheapest decent 1TB SSD that they can. Usually this ends up being the Crucial P1 or Kingston A2000. These are budget SSD's, but they are NVMe and they are M.2, making them easier to install, requiring no cables and having the potential for those juicy sequential read/writes in the thousands of megabytes per second, and all of that for only a modest price premium over a SATA SSD.

Regarding PSU's, most "recommended" numbers are too high, and you will usually need much less PSU wattage than you think.

Still, it is always wise to play it safe and that is why many people buy 750W PSU's for their systems when 550W is sufficient. Overclocking can add a lot of extra power draw as well, and this is not taken into account by most "PSU wattage calculators".

[Thunderball]

However, larger SSD's are faster than smaller SSD's, generally speaking. However, this benefit mostly tails off after the 500GB point or so. I wouldn't buy a modern SSD smaller than 500 gigs anyway.

Main advantage is not the fact that they're faster, but the fact that they're also more durable.

For most people I tend to recommend getting the cheapest decent 1TB SSD that they can. Usually this ends up being the Crucial P1 or Kingston A2000.

This is not a smart recommendation. If the budget is limited it's always best to recommend a good SATA SSD in the M.2 form-factor (Crucial MX500 or WD Blue).

having the potential for those juicy sequential read/writes in the thousands of megabytes per second, and all of that for only a modest price premium over a SATA SSD.

And also suffering pretty bad in the endurance department when used as a primary drive (although it's not true for all QLC drives these days, but it definitely is for budget ones) and giving some of the most horrible experiences in the case of cache overfill. Direct writes to QLC NAND speeds are not fun. Good M.2 1TB SATA drives cost the same as entry level 1TB NVMe QLC drives, so there's absolutely no reason to buy them as a primary drive for a gaming system. Good NVMe 1.3 drives with TLC NAND are also not that much more expensive.

Regarding PSU's, most "recommended" numbers are too high, and you will usually need much less PSU wattage than you think.

I'm usually very high on GN but this piece is a quite bit misleading. It doesnt take into account the most common usecase of any PSU in a gaming system, which is:

- Maximum loads for 8-12 hours daily.
- Both the case and the PSU itself never get cleaned.
- Case airflow that very often includes airflow that is supplied to the PSU is done very poorly.
- 4-5y of lifetime is expected.

Which leads us to the basic requirements:

1) Modern platform that is based on DC-DC converter setup.
2) All protections present. Gaming systems are on an expensive side usually.
3) Warranty period that covers the lifetime of the system. For most people it's 4-5 years.
4) Cable thickness that matches the output of the PSU. No daisy chains on the PCIe power connectors is also recommended.
5) At least 20% of power output leeway. This is pretty much standard for any build with any kind of high power usage hardware.
5a) If the user is concerned about electricity bills 30-40% of power output leeway is in order. For most modern PSUs the peak of the efficiency curve is at around 50-70% output. More power output leeway takes priority before pursuing better 80+ certifications.
6) Low voltage ripple. High pulsations will greatly affect stability under full load. If the system is overclocked the requirements are increased.

EDIT: I'm sorry if this feels like an attack but you've been writing a lot of strongly opinionated stuff recently.

[Armourboy]

Thanks for the info fellas

[Kagthul]

realize the 3060ti launched today and crushes the 5700xt for 400$