its actually kind of nice to not have a window, you don't have to be as anal about keeping the interior nice, but i have been looking at other cases
its actually kind of nice to not have a window, you don't have to be as anal about keeping the interior nice, but i have been looking at other cases
Referring to that case though, when the interior DOES look that nice then no side window = sad. It'd also be nice to see if the watercooling loop has leaked and is how happily dripping water into your motherboard or something.
WoW Character: Wintel - Frostmourne (OCE)
Gaming rig: i7 7700K, GTX 1080 Ti, 16GB DDR4, BenQ 144hz 1440p
Signature art courtesy of Blitzkatze
So I found something that causes interference with Powerline networking kits. Pro tip to guitar players who also happen to be computer geeks, the Dunlop Eric Johnson Fuzz Face can cause signal issues with products like my Linksys Powerline AV kit when it's active, probably due to the germanium transistors. Maybe this is just a cause of the fact that I have a faulty pedal that is causing the transistors and capacitors to rub against the metal cover plate, however it's causing it's own signal problems through my guitar amp without it cutting off my network connection.
You people and your moosik accesoories :S
No pedals or what-nots for me, just using an Ibanez GIO hooked up to a Nux Mighty-15. Call it budget but it pushes through the metal sound I'm after and I'd consider myself a beginner/intermediate at best when it comes to shredding/sweeping.
Look at that little thing squeal...
(no that's not me)
Last edited by Xuvial; 2012-05-14 at 02:34 AM.
WoW Character: Wintel - Frostmourne (OCE)
Gaming rig: i7 7700K, GTX 1080 Ti, 16GB DDR4, BenQ 144hz 1440p
Signature art courtesy of Blitzkatze
just about anything interferes with power line networking, it should only be used when you have no other choice
I have air coming in the front (removed the top hard drive cage) and in the top, which is then pushed through the heatsink to the exhaust out the back. I would like the bottom half of the case to get a bit more air though, which of the green fan locations would you use (circle is a 180mm mounting point without a dust filter, the two arrows are dust filtered 140mm)?
Yeah I was doing something like that for a bit Butler, but I think for a chassis like the HAF X, there's no reason to bother. lol it's made no real diff for me having that slot (front top, on HAF X) being exhaust over in-take.
If only it could...
One thing that is annoying me about that case is that I can't use it to stand drinks and plates on anymore, because the top is mesh >.> My last computer was in what amounted to a steel box with a fan at the front and a fan at the back.
Changing the fans around so that they actually help each other, as opposed to stealing each other's air, reduced my case temperatures by 5°C and my CPU temperature by 8°C. But now I know which way fans blow, even when it isn't marked on them (tested by holding a piece of cling-film (<0.1mm thin plastic wrapping for food, don't know what it is called in America) next to them and seeing whether it got pulled towards the fan or away).
I'm tending towards the fan next to the power supply on the bottom of the case.
---------- Post added 2012-05-15 at 09:55 AM ----------
http://www.bbc.com/news/technology-18048078
Advanced Micro Devices (AMD) has launched its new Trinity processor family boasting "twice the performance per watt" of its earlier Llano chips.
Like Intel's rival Ivy Bridge release, the update includes up to four CPU (central processing unit) cores and a single GPU (graphics processing unit).
The first computers using the chips go on sale in June, with the US launch of a Hewlett Packard "Sleekbook".
Trinity can be set to run off as low as 17 watts, half the minimum amount possible using Llano.
"[It] results in a reduction in total core power consumption of up to 10%."
"What we are able to do with Trinity is offer HD, 1080p resolution, gaming and deliver 30 frames per second.
"When you look at Ivy Bridge it is a step forward for Intel in terms of graphics performance, but it's still not good enough for HD gaming - and that makes the difference between playable and not playable."
Last edited by Butler to Baby Sloths; 2012-05-15 at 07:56 AM.
< This man is a very happy camper.Got home from work to see UPS boxes in my living room. Ill post some picks of the stuff I got in a bit.
I managed to snag an old Radeon HD 5970 when I was in British Columbia last week. My friend was having issues with it and replaced it. I took it, cleaned it up, redid thermal pastes, and tested it. Sure enough it worked fine for me!
Of course I had to do this to test it because the card is so frigging big it won't fit in a Define R3:
I don't know. Should I use it over the 560Ti and find a new case to do so?
red panda red panda red panda!
LOL oh dear, 5970 was rather famous for it's crazy lengths and beaten only by 6990.
Personally I wouldn't touch a 5970 with a ten foot pole (two AMD gpus on the same PCB with outdated tech?) and the GTX560 Ti should give less trouble when it comes to running games without driver hiccups/crashes/stuttering...but when it works properly, 5970 is known to easily beat GTX580 so yeah it will leave a 560 Ti in the dust.
WoW Character: Wintel - Frostmourne (OCE)
Gaming rig: i7 7700K, GTX 1080 Ti, 16GB DDR4, BenQ 144hz 1440p
Signature art courtesy of Blitzkatze
Yeah I've got a 5870 & the card is HUGE, It didn't fit in any of my cases.
I wasn't very tech-speccy back when the 5xxx series got released, any particular reason the cards are so big?
---------- Post added 2012-05-20 at 05:51 PM ----------
So...
my SSD is apparently bricked, when I came back from my bath it couldn't find any boot drives.
I've tried putting it on my dad's computer too, same result.
1 1\2 month left till I move to Denmark & assemble a new rig, this can't go fast enough >.>
i7-6700k 4.2GHz | Gigabyte GTX 980 | 16GB Kingston HyperX | Intel 750 Series SSD 400GB | Corsair H100i | Noctua IndustialPPC
ASUS PB298Q 4K | 2x QNIX QH2710 | CM Storm Rapid w/ Reds | Zowie AM | Schiit Stack w/ Sennheiser HD8/Antlion Modmic
Armory
questions about graphics card overclocking:
What voltages are safe?
How hot can I expect the graphics card to get?
I managed to get it to 1GHz core and 1400 MHz memory without upping the voltage before the driver crashed when I used the msi stress test. I'm kind of nervous about upping any voltages because I have found pretty much nothing about overclocking my specific card. All the reviews with an overclocking section appear to use a test bench, thus any temperatures they got are not going to have much of a bearing on what you see when the card is in a case.
Basically, it is very difficult to brick a high-end graphics card due to overclocking. You will reduce the life of the card no doubt, but frying it is pretty difficult unless you load a firmware that disables the overvoltage protection.
What can be considered "safe" voltage and temperature depends entirely on the individual card.
I think I might leave it at stock. I mean, there is pretty much nothing out there that will bring a 7950 to its knees anyway.
...speaking of SSDs dying... my "games" SSD (180GB Mushkin Chronos) suddenly decided to disappear from Windows Explorer earlier today. I rebooted and it shows up in the BIOS and after restarting it showed up fine. Makes me worry though...
My Vertex 2 had one or two hiccups similar to that a few weeks after installation, I still don't know the cause...but it's been 100% smooth since then
In fact I haven't even updated the firmware since I got it.
WoW Character: Wintel - Frostmourne (OCE)
Gaming rig: i7 7700K, GTX 1080 Ti, 16GB DDR4, BenQ 144hz 1440p
Signature art courtesy of Blitzkatze