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  1. #1
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    Critizise my build: High Gaming & Design PC

    Over the coming months I plan to build a new PC, here's what I have so far:

    Case: Fractal Design Define XL Black Pearl

    GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 660 SC

    MOBO: Asus Saberthooth Z77

    PSU: Corsair CMPSU-850AX

    CPU: Intel i5-3570K

    RAM: Corsair 16GB DDR3 1600

    CPU-Cooling: Corsair Cooling Hydro H80

    Anything you would switch? (Especially looking for feedback on the CPU-cooler) Thanks in advance.

    (I seem to have misplaced this. If any moderator could be so kind to move it to the right section I would be most grateful!)
    Last edited by mmocb660989b83; 2012-10-04 at 10:08 AM.

  2. #2
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    PSU is definitely overkill. A 500W model can power that system just fine, even with overclocking.

  3. #3
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    Would you recommend 650? I do want to keep some wiggle room if I end up wanting to upgrade the GPU or (if Intel will allow it!) CPU or add an additional GPU.

  4. #4
    The Lightbringer inux94's Avatar
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    If you want to SLI in the future, go for a 650w, if not then you're fine with 550w.
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  5. #5
    What kind of design? i7-3770K might be worth it for your use.

    Also since your budget is fairly high, definitely go for 120GB SSD minimum, maybe even 250GB. Asus Sabertooth is very expensive board for the features provided, it would be easy place to save off $100 by switching it to ASRock Z77 Extreme4 for example.

    Fractal Design XL might have problems with cable lengths like all full atx tower cases as well as the sheer size of it, Define R4 is better for most situations.
    Never going to log into this garbage forum again as long as calling obvious troll obvious troll is the easiest way to get banned.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by vesseblah View Post
    What kind of design? i7-3770K might be worth it for your use.

    Also since your budget is fairly high, definitely go for 120GB SSD minimum, maybe even 250GB. Asus Sabertooth is very expensive board for the features provided, it would be easy place to save off $100 by switching it to ASRock Z77 Extreme4 for example.

    Fractal Design XL might have problems with cable lengths like all full atx tower cases as well as the sheer size of it, Define R4 is better for most situations.
    Mainly digital art and website design, but I also do a bit of video editing. Is the slight bump in speed and cache worth it though? Or is there more to it than that?

    I've already got a SSD, but thank you for the recommendation! I'll look at the ASRock Z77, but how does ASRock compare to Asus in regard to durability and quality?

    I've already got the proper cables with sufficient length, but thank you for the forewarning!

    Quote Originally Posted by inux94 View Post
    If you want to SLI in the future, go for a 650w, if not then you're fine with 550w.
    Thank you, I've now changed the PSU to a Corsair HX650.

  7. #7
    You might want to get an 8 pin extension if you are getting an HX650, I have the Arc midi tower and the CPU power cable would not have reached another 3 inches.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Cornish Forrestfield View Post
    Mainly digital art and website design, but I also do a bit of video editing. Is the slight bump in speed and cache worth it though? Or is there more to it than that?
    On digital art and website side you won't gain much with i7, so you can forget it. What you want instead is a minimum of two monitors for more workspace, one of which should be as expensive as you can afford. The biggest difference between $100 gaming monitor and $1000 pro monitor is the accuracy and uniformity of color across whole screen.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cornish Forrestfield View Post
    I'll look at the ASRock Z77, but how does ASRock compare to Asus in regard to durability and quality?
    About the same really. ASRock started as cheap-ass OEM manufacturer like Foxconn but since about three years ago they've caught up in quality with everybody else.
    Never going to log into this garbage forum again as long as calling obvious troll obvious troll is the easiest way to get banned.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by vesseblah View Post
    On digital art and website side you won't gain much with i7, so you can forget it. What you want instead is a minimum of two monitors for more workspace, one of which should be as expensive as you can afford. The biggest difference between $100 gaming monitor and $1000 pro monitor is the accuracy and uniformity of color across whole screen.
    I'm currently looking to get a Acer V243HLAObmd along with my Cintiq 21UX. Your opinion? (It'll be mainly for gaming, since I use the Cintiq for digital art.)

    I'll switch to ASRock, if I don't spot anything 'wrong' when I compare the two once I get home.
    Last edited by mmocb660989b83; 2012-10-04 at 02:22 PM.

  10. #10
    High Overlord Roblivion's Avatar
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    Regarding the criticizing of this dudes build... PSU overkill was mentioned. I also plan on building when I return home in the Spring. How do you constitute exactly the wattage of the PSU that will be sufficient for your build?

  11. #11
    You want some leeway. But typically for single gpu setups ~650w is plenty. You don't want to go overboard as you are spending $$ on unneeded capacity. You don't want to go too low either as PSUs typically operate most efficiently at less than their rated output (~80%).

  12. #12
    Legendary! llDemonll's Avatar
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    I'd get a smaller case. I don't think you realize how big full-tower cases actually are and how much wasted space you'll have
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by llDemonll View Post
    I'd get a smaller case. I don't think you realize how big full-tower cases actually are and how much wasted space you'll have
    Perhaps. I certainly don't need all that space. That is true.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Roblivion View Post
    How do you constitute exactly the wattage of the PSU that will be sufficient for your build?
    Basic rule(s) of thumb is:

    - Intel Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge processor, one mechanical HDD and any graphics card that is not top of the tier = about 350W
    - If you want room for overclocking and top tier graphics card, 500W, with two midrange graphics card 650W and with two top end cards 850W
    - Using AMD PhenomII or FX processor or pre-SB Intel add 100W

    All of those numbers assume you use high quality PSU, $20 shit will deliver about 50-70% of what it says on the box.
    Never going to log into this garbage forum again as long as calling obvious troll obvious troll is the easiest way to get banned.
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  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by vesseblah View Post
    Basic rule(s) of thumb is:

    - Intel Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge processor, one mechanical HDD and any graphics card that is not top of the tier = about 350W
    - If you want room for overclocking and top tier graphics card, 500W, with two midrange graphics card 650W and with two top end cards 850W
    - Using AMD PhenomII or FX processor or pre-SB Intel add 100W

    All of those numbers assume you use high quality PSU, $20 shit will deliver about 50-70% of what it says on the box.
    True that, I can't count the number of people that doesn't see the point in getting a gold certified PSU from a renowned manufacturer. I know my Ntro is shit, but I knew that when I bought it so I added 200W to what my system would need and now I need a new PSU if I want to put in my second 680 card :/

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Roblivion View Post
    Regarding the criticizing of this dudes build... PSU overkill was mentioned. I also plan on building when I return home in the Spring. How do you constitute exactly the wattage of the PSU that will be sufficient for your build?
    Easiest way. http://www.overclock.net/t/1045231/p...psu-calculator

    Quote Originally Posted by Lemmiwink View Post
    True that, I can't count the number of people that doesn't see the point in getting a gold certified PSU from a renowned manufacturer. I know my Ntro is shit, but I knew that when I bought it so I added 200W to what my system would need and now I need a new PSU if I want to put in my second 680 card :/
    Well, 80+ Bronze is usually sufficient. You're paying a huge premium for 80+ Gold. You also have to account for the fact that there are plenty of 'bad' 80+ Bronze PSUs. If you get a 'recommended' 80+ Bronze, then you should be able to handle up to rated wattage.

    @ OP: With your build, you'll have to decide whether the extra money spent on the full tower, AX850 and Sabertooth. The alternatives would be mid tower, TX650/TX750/HX650/HX750 (assuming you want to stay with Corsair) and the P8Z77-V/P8Z77-V LX/P8Z77-V LK (assuming you want to stay with ASUS).

    This shifts money into other areas such as CPU (i7-3770K grants you hyperthreading which is 'supposed' to help with video encoding), GPU (upgrade to 660 Ti) and SSD.
    Last edited by yurano; 2012-10-05 at 02:48 AM.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Lemmiwink View Post
    True that, I can't count the number of people that doesn't see the point in getting a gold certified PSU from a renowned manufacturer. I know my Ntro is shit, but I knew that when I bought it so I added 200W to what my system would need and now I need a new PSU if I want to put in my second 680 card :/
    Quote Originally Posted by yurano View Post
    Easiest way. http://www.overclock.net/t/1045231/p...psu-calculator



    Well, 80+ Bronze is usually sufficient. You're paying a huge premium for 80+ Gold. You also have to account for the fact that there are plenty of 'bad' 80+ Bronze PSUs. If you get a 'recommended' 80+ Bronze, then you should be able to handle up to rated wattage.

    @ OP: With your build, you'll have to decide whether the extra money spent on the full tower, AX850 and Sabertooth. The alternatives would be mid tower, TX650/TX750/HX650/HX750 (assuming you want to stay with Corsair) and the P8Z77-V/P8Z77-V LX/P8Z77-V LK (assuming you want to stay with ASUS).

    This shifts money into other areas such as CPU (i7-3770K grants you hyperthreading which is 'supposed' to help with video encoding), GPU (upgrade to 660 Ti) and SSD.
    80+ Ratings have absolutely nothing to do with whether or not a PSU delivers its advertised wattage. Those ratings are for AC to DC efficiency, nothing else.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by glo View Post
    80+ Ratings have absolutely nothing to do with whether or not a PSU delivers its advertised wattage. Those ratings are for AC to DC efficiency, nothing else.
    True that. If a PSU shows efficiency of 80%, it doesn't mean its maximum output is 0.8*(advertised wattage). It means that if your PC draws 300W, the PSU needs 375W off the wall socket. (300/80*100=375 or 300W corresponds to 80%, 3.75W corresponds to 1% (both divided by 80), 375W corresponds to 100% (mathematical rule of proportion))

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by yurano View Post
    Well, 80+ Bronze is usually sufficient. You're paying a huge premium for 80+ Gold. You also have to account for the fact that there are plenty of 'bad' 80+ Bronze PSUs. If you get a 'recommended' 80+ Bronze, then you should be able to handle up to rated wattage.
    Quote Originally Posted by glo View Post
    80+ Ratings have absolutely nothing to do with whether or not a PSU delivers its advertised wattage. Those ratings are for AC to DC efficiency, nothing else.
    I think you misread. I was explaining why 80+ Gold isn't mandatory. And to determine capability, you'd go to a list of 'recommended' PSUs. (eg. http://www.overclock.net/t/183810/fa...power-supplies )

    80+ and accurate wattage rating are two parts of determining the value of a PSU model. Its like noting the MPG and horsepower of a car. Most cars at a certain horsepower also have decent MPG, but then you can have cars like the 2011 Mitsubishi Endeavor at a gas guzzling 3.8L with a MPG of 15/21 and only 225 horsepower.
    Last edited by yurano; 2012-10-07 at 10:26 PM.

  20. #20
    Although bronze, silver, gold and platinum rated PSUs tend to have higher quality components in them, which is always worth considering.

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