Anyone use an i5-4670k with DDR1333 x4 memory? Trying to save a few bucks for now.

[chaosrecords]

Upgrading my workstation this week and had some memory questions.

Has anyone out there had slower memory 1066/1333 with the gen4 Intel's and noticed any "major" performance changes vs using 1600+ speeds?

I work with 3 monitors daily at home. The only gaming I do is WoW and this PC actually runs wow great. I raid 10 mans on ultra and hold 30fps with 100mb+ worth of addons, and around 20-25FPS on 25 man LFRs. Im a big multitasker, I usually have 20-30 chrome tabs up at a time as well as LogMeIn remote sessions running. I don't do surround gaming or play any FPS games. I have my chrome cache put on my WD drives, and the lag from them spinning up annoys me, so to eliminate all of that im doubling my SSD and building a newer rig.

For the i5 4670k builds, i see most people run DDR3 at PC1600 as a standard or get OC'd pairs of memory.
My new board will support PC1066 to PC3000.
I plan on dropping in 4 sticks of PC1333 to give me 16gb of ram because its FREE- I have loads of it from work.
I'm aware this is not "ideal" for overclocking, or extreme gaming, but I'm not planning on OC'ing.

Here is the current setup:
CPU: Intel i3 2100- 3.2ghz dual core ( Corsair h50 cpu cooler
MoBo- P8H61-M LE
Memory: PC3=10700 ( 667mhz) 4gb x2 in Dual Channel config
GFX: Sapphire Radeon HD4870
PSU: Raidmax RX700AC ( generic but works quite well)
HDD-Boot: Mushkin Chronos 128gb
HDD-Storage: WD Green 1TB x2
OS: Windows 8 Pro X64
Monitor Config 3x Acer G215v's


Here is the new setup on order:
CPU: Intel i5 4670k ( re-using corsair h50 cooler)
MoBo- MSI z87-G41 PC MATE ( because I'll never do SLI and if I OC it will be very mild because I like quiet systems)
Memory: PC3=10700 ( 667mhz) 4gb x4 for 16gb gb total ( its free, versus paying $300 for a kit)
GFX: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 OC 2GB ( $150 on special and I love my laptop's 660 performance with WoW)
PSU: Corsair TX650 650W ( better build quality and efficiency)
HDD-Boot: Intel 530 series 240gb SSD
HDD-Storage: WD Green 1TB x2 or may go 750gb Seagates in Raid5 later
OS: Windows 8.1 Pro X64 ( yes i know its not win7 and ideal for gaming, but win8 performs better for my job)
Monitor Config 3x Acer G215v's (same as before)


Basically when its said and done I'll have a system where I can WoW at optimal settings, with my addons, as well as multitask.
I should be able to raid with better FPS as well as now Stream via Twitch and run WoL, and not have to close out all my other programs. Just hoping there isn't a severe performance decrease with the Ram versus buying "Gaming Ram".
I haven't really needed to overclock in the past although i have experience with it ( used to run an ABIT AN7 and Athlon Xp2500M extremely OC'd back in the day, and some mild OC with my Phenom II 955 Black Edition) but these Intel's do a really good job at running single threaded apps so I don't see any need to OC for a while until I start lagging.

Any Thoughts?

[chazus]

1333 will run fine for your situation.

if budget is tight (it kind of seems like it isn't , based on purchases), you might consider an i3-4330, which clocks in -very- near a i5-4670K that isn't overclocked. If you can afford it, get the i5 though.

I'd also recommend the Samsung 840 EVO 250 over the Intel 520. Its significantly cheaper, and arguably better.

Also, get the WD Blue "WD10EZEX", is cheaper than the green, and better.

[Cerus]

Your prices are way off or you're buying at big box stores. Less than $140 will net you 16 gigs of 1600 gaming class memory.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231315

Ps. Don't skimp on the PSU. I wouldn't go less than 800 for future proofing and stability.

[chazus]

Your prices are way off or you're buying at big box stores. Less than $140 will net you 16 gigs of 1600 gaming class memory.

It doesn't matter if his prices are off. He's getting it for free.

Ps. Don't skimp on the PSU. I wouldn't go less than 800 for future proofing and stability.

Entirely, completely unnecessary. A 650 is fine. Even overkill, unless he planned on going SLI. Which he wont. So 650 is fine.

[chaosrecords]

1333 will run fine for your situation.

if budget is tight (it kind of seems like it isn't , based on purchases), you might consider an i3-4330, which clocks in -very- near a i5-4670K that isn't overclocked. If you can afford it, get the i5 though.

I'd also recommend the Samsung 840 EVO 250 over the Intel 520. Its significantly cheaper, and arguably better.

Also, get the WD Blue "WD10EZEX", is cheaper than the green, and better.

I made a mistake/typo regarding the SSD.. Its a 530 Series
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-240GB-2-...dp_ob_title_ce

The budget is actually kind of tight, the purchases were made because a friend wants to buy my current rig from me for $600. - So i had an opportunity to basically upgrade my rig for around $300 bucks after all is said and done)- Took forever to convince my wife I needed to buy PC parts lol
So I have to rebuild a new PC pretty much.
The storage drives I have now I may replace later, they are just where i keep my stuff before it gets put in a vault.
I have 10 new 750GB 7200 RPM Seagates laying around. I run IT for a small business with a chain of retail stores, so I swap parts in and out of the workstations my employees find a way of destroying on a weekly basis, so I have alot of RAM, HDDs, and components to harvest from, so I won't need to buy any more regular storage.

Your prices are way off or you're buying at big box stores. Less than $140 will net you 16 gigs of 1600 gaming class memory.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231315

Ps. Don't skimp on the PSU. I wouldn't go less than 800 for future proofing and stability.

Yeah I was looking at the OC'd ram that was sold as sets.
I went with a Corsair TX 650 because I got a good deal on it ( $40 shipped)
This is temporary, because I need something for now, but in the future I will probably get a 800w+ certified gold PSU around the $100-$150 range if i decide to use this machine with a raid config and battery backup.



Thanks for your replies so far

[FluFF]

There is hardly any difference in fps between the lowest MHz ram and the highest , if you compare 1333mhz to 2100+ you are missing like 1.5 to 2.5 fps.

Linustechtips did a good video about it called '' does memory/ram speed matter ''

Just go with the 1333mhz if you want to get that.
.

[chazus]

This is temporary, because I need something for now, but in the future I will probably get a 800w+ certified gold PSU around the $100-$150 range if i decide to use this machine with a raid config and battery backup.

I wouldn't bother. Waste of money. Drives use next to zero power, even if you have a lot. Gold rating in that price range is just being a victim to marketing and advertising.

The TX650 will do you well until your next major upgrade cycle in 3-5 years.

[chaosrecords]

I wouldn't bother. Waste of money. Drives use next to zero power, even if you have a lot. Gold rating in that price range is just being a victim to marketing and advertising.

The TX650 will do you well until your next major upgrade cycle in 3-5 years.

Thank you.

And @ FluFF- ill check out that video.

Just trying to "get back into" things and update my knowledge of the gaming PC world. The computers i work on daily are all last generation, or are from 2010 era, and none are Gaming related. They just need to stay on long to process sales until an employee decides to short out another motherboard by forcing a USB drive in backwards or breaking off wires lol

Do any of you think the GTX 660 is a good deal for the money?

[chazus]

I have a 660 that I bought nearly a year ago, and I'm still very happy with it. I also prefer the best performance/price, rather than top end everything.

You might also consider a 650ti Boost. It's not -quite- as good, but close, and cheaper. I have also seen some extremely cheap 7870 Ghz cards, which are often a steal.

[chaosrecords]

I found two videos that pretty much explain it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yG8HoewIO_s

and a detailed OC guide on 4th gen CPUS.. ( Thanks forums.. making me want to OC when I dont have to)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CHs5_TdpXE

I guess that answers my questions.
I just didn't want to be missing out on any potential bottlenecks with having a brand new CPU.
I typically do my gaming builds off of the last generation's specs to save money.. so this time around I decided to upgrade a little earlier than normal on some items because when you have a friend that wants to buy all your old stuff at a good price it changes the scenario =)

[Cerus]

It doesn't matter if his prices are off. He's getting it for free.

Entirely, completely unnecessary. A 650 is fine. Even overkill, unless he planned on going SLI. Which he wont. So 650 is fine.

In your opinion. However the majority of builds are overkill for WoW period. I prefer not to buy things twice and flush money down the toilet which is exactly what can happen if the OP changes his mind which is something system builders often do. PSUs are about the one thing that will last you through many rebuilds and can be reused. Unlike CPUs and MBs which constantly have minor changes that render them useless if you want to change one or the other and have the latest and greatest.

You're free to offer your own advice but how about doing it without acting like your God and your opinion is all that matters? I don't know what is with mods lately but you aren't the only voice in the chorus here. My advice and opinion on the topic are sound. I'm pretty sure this is the computer build forums - NOT that chazus forums. You could have easily disagreed without acting like you are the king of computer building. I neither agree or disagree with your assessment of PSUs. I simply choose to have more than I need for a very minor increase in cost. I like knowing that pretty much no matter what I might decide to add later to my rig, I will not be buying a new PSU anytime soon.

Many people try to save a buck without really thinking of the future and what it may end up costing them. The same way you disregard what I said about ram being far cheaper than the OP apparently realized. So it's not sound advice because he can get it free? Did we not read the same post? He clearly desires faster ram which is the whole damn point of his post but is unwilling to pay $300 for it. Perhaps he would be more willing to pay $140? I put the information out there and it is up to the OP to decide whether free is still better.

I've been doing this for over 20 years so whatever. Offer your opinions all you want but try doing it without acting like such a jerk by beating down someone elses next time.

[chaosrecords]

The mods responses are harsh, but somewhat warranted. The tone of the post however we don't know, and your response may be interpreted leading to an escalation.
All depends on how you interpret a post and how the writer feels at the time and vice versa. Thats kind of the problem of forums- no "Tone" in text. I see it form both sides.. I've been doing this 15 years, and I've been an admin a rather large (+1mil thread/ 120k peak member) forum for 12 years. I value everyone's input, if I'm wrong Ill try to right it, then again if I see someone with 20 posts come in and start commenting on threads I may be more inclined to audit their posts to make sure they aren't spreading bad info.

Regardless, anything personal should probably be directed via PMs between you guys as not to derail any of the thread.

Back on subject:

All the stuff is on order now and will be here HOPEFULLY by Wednesday.

[chazus]

I apologize if I came off as harsh. I just feel very strongly about wasting money. While I understand the idea of future proofing, in the case of the RAM... It just doesn't matter what price it is. The fact is, the speed/performance of the ram doesn't matter. So any ram, of any cost, is a poor purchase, and I just wanted to make it -clear- that it's a poor purchase.

Every post and build I respond to is specifically tailored to that persons needs and what I'm told. So every build and consideration is different.

As far as the PSU goes... Again, I understand 'future proofing' but technology has proved that it is not increasing power requirements (in the areas that matter).. So if he decided to 'upgrade' down the road to a new card, he's fine. And while he would probably need a larger PSU in the event of SLI... He said he wouldn't. SLI is usually reserved for people buying the top end, where the 'best' cards are simply not enough, not for people buying mid-grade and want to get a second one later. And it's not that situation, either.

Incidentally, getting a big fat power supply (Say, 850w), is sort of a double whammy of a poor idea. We've already ruled out that he doesn't need it now, nor later. First, it costs more up front. Secondly, it doesn't 'save' him anything, as the returns on power supplies are pretty minimal above Bronze rating. It would literally take him 6-9 years to simply 'break even' on the cost spent up front, let alone 'save costs', on the power saved on higher efficiency. Not only that, but there's actually math on how to hit the 'sweet spot' on power supplies. Power supplies are usually inefficient in the 40-50% power usage range, and much better in the 80% usage range. As most computers only pull about 200-400 watts, that 550'ish area is optimal. Going up to 850 though, on that same usage, literally uses more power than a 550w.

Sometimes I might come off as 'know it all', but I also feel that I... am usually accurate. If someone disagrees, I'm happy to back up with info or evidence. Usually simply making a statement is good enough. There are plenty of people who are wrong, and will be called out, and if I'm wrong, people call me out. But the fact of the matter is, I have little tolerance for advice that ends up costing someone more money than they need to. I've never had a ton of money to spend on $2000 gaming systems myself, so I'm quite used to pinching pennies and getting the absolute most out of a system per dollar. There are places to squeeze, and places to not, and places to avoid 'luxury'.

Again, I'm sorry if it came off as harsh, I was simply attempting to be clear.

[Alexeht]

Ram make small difference anyway. Intel i5 4670k can use 1600Mhz memory and I see somewhere kingstone cheap - http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Modul.../dp/B007TTEHMW seems like good option as they are in just 2 sticks, but you said something about free 16GB so I would not even bother

I use 5 years now 1TB WD green and 3yrs 2TB WD green - they never make any problems, are quiet, consume 5-7W and are just a little warm (not hot like others 'faster' HHD).

Also be careful with that old corsair H50 - It depends from how long you were using it, but pump will die eventually (I would just buy noctua air cooler )

[chaosrecords]

Its all good.

Most users don't state their intentions and usage habits when posting buys.
I like versatility, and re-usability and being able to save money.

What makes my case different is that i have a few variables that are more "work related" than gaming related.. but I also want the absolute best I can get for WoW. Wow is really a pain in the *** to build a system for without either screwing yourself in other areas, or overkilling it. Wow isn't the greatest "multi threaded" game out there..

I learned the hard way when I started raiding in WoW back in 07-08
I was gifted a Phenom X4 9500 PC and an Nvidia 6600 and thought I would be the king of gaming. It played Doom 3 on High.
Soon as I stepped into a raid on WoW.. I got 10fps max.. even on low. Drove me insane.
I shelled out 200 bucks for a Radeon 4830 and got ... a whopping 12-15 FPS still.
I went through a year of torture and not raiding trying to figure out where i went wrong, all while I could play better on a Dell laptop with a dual core and integrated nvidia card that was 2-3 years older.
I picked up a Phenom II x4 and bought a board to upgrade and kept the same GFX card- Instant 40-50 FPS in raids.
Lesson here? The biggest and Baddest aren't always the answer

Wow is a very processor intensive game, your combat log and Recount is going to affect your FPS in a Raid more than the difference between a $300 GFX Card and a $100 GFX Card. aA quad core back in the day wasn't optimized for the game at all, if a game only used 1 core, then the other 3 cores are worthless. Wow didn't utilize dual cores until TBC, and More than 3 threads since WoTLK.

I blew alot of money trying to figure that on my own until I started waiting for benchmarks and waiting until I saw it in person before I made the jump to another processor. Ive experienced a dramatic difference going from that Phenom II 955 overclocked to what seemed like a downgrade: the i3 2100.. but it runs wow great, as long as I'm not running other tasks. That was years ago.

Im back in the same boat now as history repeats itself...

I chose to go with the i5 and felt it was the best bang for my buck because of the history I've had with WoW, and I already own an MSI GE60 Laptop that although its an i7, it runs anything i throw at it, including video editing and conversions. The computer im building now i can get an overclock-able PC that pretty much is on par with the i7 for almost every game. I wont be doing any "Folding@home" or won't be converting video files. Just needed something that gives me a little more power, and also gives me a platform ( z87 chipset) so I can keep a single GFX Card, Enjoy WoW, have 6 SATA3 connectors for fast access to my drives, and more usb 3.0 ports.. and who knows, maybe in two years ill be complaining and want an 8 core lol

PCs are a NEVER ENDING CYCLE.

- - - Updated - - -

Also be careful with that old corsair H50 - It depends from how long you were using it, but pump will die eventually (I would just buy noctua air cooler )

Mine has been running really strong. When they came out I think they had a problem with one of the batches, because i saw posts of people complaining about the seals going bad. Mine was bought later in the lifecycle, and i love it.. only issue is there seems to be is sometimes i can hear some bubbles meaning some of the fluid inside has evaporated, but i keep it mounted so the feed and return are at the bottom, so gravity can do its work.

I have an Antec Nine Hundred v2 Case and I clean it religiously once a month inside and out. and i always inspect the thing and handle it with kid gloves. Also i have my bios set to shut down if the PC goes past 60*C but an upgrade will be coming to that H50 later on..

i bought this case: Corsair Carbide 500R specifically because i knew that the H100 could fit in there perfectly.. so thats actually one of my next purchases in line ( it was going to be RAM until i made this thread)

Now it depending on how loud this Gigabyte GTX 660 is- I may be tempted inclined to cut a bracket out and use the H50 on it.
However I need to find out if theres a way i can rig the PC to shut fown if just the GPU gets too hot so i have some sort of way of knowing if it did die or the pump failed ( at least if the seals broke it wouldn't ruin anything below since it would pool on the case bottom versus the back side of the Gfx card.)

[Alexeht]

Mine has been running really strong. When they came out I think they had a problem with one of the batches, because i saw posts of people complaining about the seals going bad. Mine was bought later in the lifecycle, and i love it.. only issue is there seems to be is sometimes i can hear some bubbles meaning some of the fluid inside has evaporated, but i keep it mounted so the feed and return are at the bottom, so gravity can do its work.

I have an Antec Nine Hundred v2 Case and I clean it religiously once a month inside and out. and i always inspect the thing and handle it with kid gloves. Also i have my bios set to shut down if the PC goes past 60*C but an upgrade will be coming to that H50 later on..

This sound just wrong - I'm using H60 right now, and if there would be any air bubble sound I would immediately remove it, as closed loop water coolers should not have ANY chance to 'evaporate' any liquid as they are CLOSED - that probably mean loop have holes in it or something!

Now it depending on how loud this Gigabyte GTX 660 is- I may be tempted inclined to cut a bracket out and use the H50 on it.
However I need to find out if theres a way i can rig the PC to shut fown if just the GPU gets too hot so i have some sort of way of knowing if it did die or the pump failed ( at least if the seals broke it wouldn't ruin anything below since it would pool on the case bottom versus the back side of the Gfx card.)

this is totally WRONG! DON'T DO THAT! You end with frying card memory and what not ...

[Barnabas]

If you don't plan to OC then go with the 1333 ram.