New, self-built computer won't boot.

[Deleted]

Posting in this forum to see if anyone has any suggestions as what could be wrong.

Since my SO and I are not to knowledgeable about PC's and their parts in specific, we asked a guildie to help us pick parts on a specific budget.
List of the parts we used:
Motherboard - Asro Z97M Anniversary Z97 RG SM
CPU - Intel Pentium G3240 3100 1150 BOX*
RAM - D3 8GB 1866-10 Fury Black K2 KHX
HDD - Seag 1TB ST1000DM003 7200 SA3
GPU - MSI 3GB D5 X R9 280 Gaming R
PSU - Corsair VS 550 550W ATX23


The first time we tried to turn it on I spammed the delete key on the keyboard to get into the BIOS, but the computer didn't "recognise" the keyboard until it was already too late. So I turned it off again (with the power button) and then back on to do the same, still didn't get any input from the keyboard. Third time I tried a different USB port, and now the computer doesn't do anything at all anymore. I tried unplugging absolutely everything and put it all back in, still nothing. The odd thing we noticed is that the buttons on the keyboard (Steelseries 6VG2) do light up, so there does seem to be _some_ power.

Anyone have any idea what could be wrong here?

[Arbiter]

Make sure it's a USB 2.0 in the back of the PC. I know my keyboard has this issue with it bypassing the BIOS logo screen too fast because the keyboard itself doesn't enable fast enough. I just spam as fast as I can.

When you say it isn't doing anything...like not even powering on or just not making it to the BIOS logo screen?

You could try resetting the CMOS battery on the motherboard if it's just not booting to the BIOS screen, but you have an EXTREMELY bad quality PSU. Probably worse than the CX series so if it's not powering on at all I'd be inclined to say it's the PSU.

[Deleted]

Hitting the power button doesn't do a thing. Nothing lights up, not even the fans are attempting to spin. It's as if there's no power at all, which is why I'm confused that the keyboard is lighting up. Since I don't have a spare PSU lying around I'm considering to pack the whole thing up and head to the store where I usually go to and see if they can test it with a different PSU. As it is now, I can't really isolate the problem at all.

- - - Updated - - -

Cleared the CMOS by carefully removing the motherboard battery and leaving it out for ~30seconds. Put a different keyboard (Logitech G510) into a USB port at the back and was able to load in to the BIOS! I am installing the OS from the DVD drive as we speak. Thanks a lot for the advice, Arbiter. Quite difficult to sort these things out with people that can't actually do troubleshooting themselves and have to instruct dummies how to do it. Much appreciated.

[Undies]

I would DEFINITELY suggest getting a different PSU.... you dont want to run into issues down the road, and you get what you pay for as far as PSU's go...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B00822BTLC is a great one that will last forever and will power anything you have or will want to add/swap out down the road.

[Deleted]

Without trying to sound like an idiot, but what is so bad about this particular PSU?
I googled a bit and the opinions seem split, some people are very satisfied while others had some issues with it.

[Schadow]

Motherboard - Asro Z97M Anniversary Z97 RG SM
CPU - Intel Pentium G3240 3100 1150 BOX*
RAM - D3 8GB 1866-10 Fury Black K2 KHX
HDD - Seag 1TB ST1000DM003 7200 SA3
GPU - MSI 3GB D5 X R9 280 Gaming R
PSU - Corsair VS 550 550W ATX23

I would assume these are not all the parts. Regardless, if you have more, you are going close to the limit after it aged for 2 years.

System Type: 1 physical CPU
Motherboard: High End - Desktop
CPU Socket: Socket LGA 1150
CPU: Intel Pentium G3240 3100 MHz Haswell-DT
CPU Utilization (TDP): 90% TDP

RAM: 2 Modules DDR3 SDRAM
Video Card 1: AMD Radeon R9 280X

ATTENTION: FOR PERSONAL, NON-COMMERCIAL USE ONLY

High rpm SATA: 1 HDD

Keyboard and mouse: Yes

System Load: 90 %


Minimum PSU Wattage: 346 Watts
Recommended Wattage: 396 Watts

If I have all the parts, I can give a more estimate ranking. Reminder that although it recommends now 396 watts, I have not included any fans, optical drives or additional drives, as well as any other PCI(-E) cards. Also, PSU ages, as with everything, and they'll be able to provide less power. An aftermarket card is usually overclocked and I am at work with a shitty connection, so I cannot see yet.

[tweaq]

I would assume these are not all the parts. Regardless, if you have more, you are going close to the limit after it aged for 2 years.



If I have all the parts, I can give a more estimate ranking. Reminder that although it recommends now 396 watts, I have not included any fans, optical drives or additional drives, as well as any other PCI(-E) cards. Also, PSU ages, as with everything, and they'll be able to provide less power. An aftermarket card is usually overclocked and I am at work with a shitty connection, so I cannot see yet.

Make sure you have the right power cables connected for the video card then go through and check atx and other connections again. Try unplugging video card and anything in a pci slot and boot it off the internal card if it has one. Can try tripping the bios reset button and make sure the kbb and mouse is in the rear usb 2 ports, after that id be looking at the psu

EDIT - look at as in as in faulty, 550w is plenty for that and check memory is fitted properly

[Deleted]

I would DEFINITELY suggest getting a different PSU.... you dont want to run into issues down the road, and you get what you pay for as far as PSU's go...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B00822BTLC is a great one that will last forever and will power anything you have or will want to add/swap out down the road.

Without trying to sound like an idiot, but what is so bad about this particular PSU?
I googled a bit and the opinions seem split, some people are very satisfied while others had some issues with it.

There's nothing wrong with the PSU. Don't let Undies scare you. It's hardly the Ferrari of the PSU world, but it's made by a perfectly reputable manufacturer (Corsair have great warranties on their PSUs). Nobody needs the fancy stuff like modular connectors and all this Gold/Platinum certified nonsense is little more than bullshit to get you to spend money. I'm using an HX1050 in my rig (very much middle of the road for a Corsair PSU) and it's lasted me well over 3 years now without any issues whatsoever.

[Arbiter]

There's nothing wrong with the PSU. Don't let Undies scare you. It's hardly the Ferrari of the PSU world, but it's made by a perfectly reputable manufacturer (Corsair have great warranties on their PSUs). Nobody needs the fancy stuff like modular connectors and all this Gold/Platinum certified nonsense is little more than bullshit to get you to spend money. I'm using an HX1050 in my rig (very much middle of the road for a Corsair PSU) and it's lasted me well over 3 years now without any issues whatsoever.

It's got nothing to do with Corsair. Most companies, Corsair included, use OEMs for their PSUs and the OEMs for those series are terrible. We're not suggesting modular or gold cert as that's just a feature to spend money on. We're talking the quality of the parts used to build them. Capacitors and such. The parts used in the VS and CX series are low end, cheap, and doomed to fail. Will it run out the box? Probably. Will it last several years? Probably not. Does it have a higher risk of taking your parts with it when it dies or even in the rare case bursting into flames? Yep. That's why you buy quality PSUs such as Seasonic, which Corsair does have plenty of CPUs that are Seasonic OEM.

I've even had the 850W version of the HX PSU that you have (both are same OEM too). 2 actually...and I wouldn't recommend that piece of shit if you payed me. $150 doesn't make it a good PSU. One had a coil whine, both were loud as hell even on light work loads, and one even constantly gave me a similar problem the OP had except it started with a boot loop. Bought a good seasonic PSU and I haven't had any issues to date...plus I haven't heard the fan at all.

OP, I'm glad it seemed to have fixed the problem. If you can return the PSU and get something better (something Seasonic, EVGA Supernova series, XFX, Antec HCG series) I would highly recommend doing so while you can. All 4 brands/series I mentioned have units that are priced around $50 for quality PSUs.

- - - Updated - - -

Also I'd like to add,

Yes, Corsair has good warranties, but
A) they don't manufacturer their PSUs. Their PSUs come from Channel Wells, Seasonic, Chicony, and Flextronics. They don't make them they just rebrand them.
and
B) Corsair's warranty doesn't cover your parts if the PSU kills them.

[Remilia]

Corsair no longer has any SeaSonic OEM PSUs in production, all the ones that are are discontinued and shifted to another one (AX to AXi).

[Arbiter]

Corsair no longer has any SeaSonic OEM PSUs in production, all the ones that are are discontinued and shifted to another one (AX to AXi).

Ah, hasn't realized that the ones they used were discontinued. Thanks for noting that.