partial upgrade list-can someone check my parts list please

[notanmmmonewbie]

Hey everybody,

Thinking about upgrading most of the parts on my PC that were from my original build which i did back in Aug of 2012. I'm including a list of stuff that i am keeping and a list of stuff that i'm thinking about getting. For the list of stuff that i'm getting if you guys see a brand name that isnt any good or that is known for defects let me know or suggest a better one.


STUFF I'M KEEPING
Thermaltake case
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16811133191

Msi 1060 GTX
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA73M77M0355

4TB WD internal drive


STUFF I'M BUYING
Intel Core i7-7700K Kaby Lake Quad-Core 4.2 GHz LGA 1151
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...96&ignorebbr=1

ASUS PRIME Z270-P LGA 1151 Intel Z270 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-939-_-Product

G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3866 (PC4 30900) Intel Z370 Desktop Memory
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820232606

SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (my boot disk)
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...51&ignorebbr=1

SanDisk SSD PLUS SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) SDSSDA-240G-G26 (for storing 3d work)
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...54&ignorebbr=1

POWER SUPPLY???? dont know what capacity to go with.

MSI GeForce RTX 2070 DirectX 12 RTX 2070 ARMOR 8G 8GB 256-Bit GDDR6 (I **might** get this card at a later date after all the above stuff is done)
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16814137366

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Ohh and i want to be able to handle some of the games being released nowaday. Games like the new Resident Evil Remake, Monster Hunter World, AC: Odyssey and X-Plane 11. I'm guessing it will be fine for those games since its way above the recommended specs for RE:Remake.

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Also, do you guys think that the ram is overkill? i want to go with 32gb but i dont know if the 3866 is too much. I want to be able to handle the games i listed and not have to worry about upgrading for at least 5-6 years. Also what about the processor? I wasnt sure about I3 vs I5 vs I7 or if Kabylake was too much or if i should have gone with a Skylake. The price different didnt seem like that much but i'm wondering if there is something else that i'm not taking into account about its performance or whatever.

[Shauren]

First, don't buy old gen intel processors as they almost never get any discounts, look at 9700k instead with a matching Z390 board (for example https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16813119152)

3866 ram speed is definitely pointless, it barely makes any difference in fps on intel platforms as long as you don't go for super cheap 2400 sticks, 3000 or 3200 seem to be a good middle ground, for example this set https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820232748

ps. with all that money saved on RAM you could upgrade cpu to 9900k or gpu to RTX 2080

[Temp name]

Buying a 7700k is stupid, sorry. The one you linked is 385 USD, you can find a 9700k for 389. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Wty...bx80684i79700k and the 9700k will perform better than the 7700k in every task. Literally every single one (unless for some reason someone programmed something to ONLY run on the 7000 series micro architecture, which would be stupid, and even then, the 9000 series is basically the same architecture with only minor changes)

3866 RAM is way too expensive for what you get. If you really want something that can perform at those speeds, buy something like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NyT...2gx4m2c3200c16 which *SHOULD* be Samsung B-die and then overclock it yourself. Even that's a bit expensive though, you can also get Samsung E-die up to 3800+ speeds with a bit of fiddling. But there's pretty much no reason at all to go above 3200 on anything unless you want a bigger epeen.


That said, depending on what you do with the PC, I might suggest going with AMD. You said you needed the secondary drive for 3d work? What programs do you use? Also what resolution/frame rate do you play games at? A 2070 might be overkill, or it might be underkill depending on what you want. 32GB is probably also overkill for RAM. What do you need it for?

As for parts, I went through and upgraded most stuff, or at least got you better value:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($389.99 @ Walmart)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($84.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($185.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Thermaltake - Chaser MK-I ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($98.90 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1022.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-17 06:36 EDT-0400

9700k because it's a decent low high-end Intel chip
DRP4 cooler because it's the best air cooler on the market and it looks decent
Aorus Pro MOBO because Gigabyte makes the best boards for Z390
32GB 3000Mhz RAM, because there's no real reason to go faster on Intel outside of edge cases
A single SSD because there's almost no reason to buy 2 smaller capacity ones, if you really want them separate, you can partition it, or just buy 2 smaller 860 EVO's
650W PSU is more than enough, you could probably get away with 450W with the 1060, and 500W for a 2070

[Triggered Fridgekin]

Those are some bizarre SSD choices. For starters, they lack DRAM so there goes a ton of endurance on top of being low density drives so I am willing to bed the 120GB model has something abysmally low like 40TBW. Secondly, these low-end models tend to suffer from variable bill of materials which Sandisk is known for doing. Lastly, the performance is terrible.

Pony up a little extra and pick up a pair of MX500, WD Blue or ADATA SU800.

[notanmmmonewbie]

Well that's why i posted the list here, so that people could look through it and tell me if a brand sucks or if there is a better one for the same price or slightly more. I dont read pc builder mags or follow builder sites so i dont know if Sandisk is going to be a "bizarre choice" or not.
@Temp name, thanks for the suggestions. I thought that some of the pricing on processors was odd too. I know that older gen stuff sold as new is sometimes more expensive than current/near gen stuff also sold as new. Thats why i asked about that too in case there was something i was overlooking.

[Temp name]

Well that's why i posted the list here, so that people could look through it and tell me if a brand sucks or if there is a better one for the same price or slightly more. I dont read pc builder mags or follow builder sites so i dont know if Sandisk is going to be a "bizarre choice" or not.
@Temp name, thanks for the suggestions. I thought that some of the pricing on processors was odd too. I know that older gen stuff sold as new is sometimes more expensive than current/near gen stuff also sold as new. Thats why i asked about that too in case there was something i was overlooking.

If you can find the 7700k for like, 150, you can go with that no problem, it just doesn't make any sense going with it at the same price as a newer model that performs better.

[notanmmmonewbie]

I bought most of the parts and i'm just waiting for a free day to put it all together. I bought an EVGA power supply at Best Buy but they didnt have the 650 so i got a 850 watt instead. Is that one OK? is it possible to go "too big" with the PS? i've heard no but i wanted to be sure. I'm still leaning heavily towards getting an RTX 2060 maybe a 2070 and maybe even an SLI setup. But for sure i'll be getting one in the near future.

[Temp name]

I bought most of the parts and i'm just waiting for a free day to put it all together. I bought an EVGA power supply at Best Buy but they didnt have the 650 so i got a 850 watt instead. Is that one OK? is it possible to go "too big" with the PS? i've heard no but i wanted to be sure. I'm still leaning heavily towards getting an RTX 2060 maybe a 2070 and maybe even an SLI setup. But for sure i'll be getting one in the near future.

The only problems with going with too high is the higher initial purchasing cost and lower efficiency. You won't damage your hardware if you do it.

If you plan on going SLI: Don't. It makes no sense unless you're running the highest performing GPU. 2 2070's won't perform as well as a 2080 in 90% of games because most games don't scale well with SLI. There are a couple that do, but it's pretty irrelevant when most don't.

[Shauren]

You can't use SLI with these cards even if you wanted to, only 2080 and 2080ti have the nvlink connector for that

[Temp name]

You can't use SLI with these cards even if you wanted to, only 2080 and 2080ti have the nvlink connector for that

Did they remove the connector from the 70 series too? Thought they still had it

[notanmmmonewbie]

I'm going to putting the PC together later in the day. I had a question about updating the BIOS though. Should I:

1) put all the parts together and before i even install Windows 10 I update the BIOS first?

2) or should i get all the parts in there, boot it up, install Win10, plug in the one HDD from my old PC, make sure it all looks stable, transfer any profiles over and that i can load Pornhub ok on Firefox and THEN reboot it and update the BIOS?

[Temp name]

I'm going to putting the PC together later in the day. I had a question about updating the BIOS though. Should I:

1) put all the parts together and before i even install Windows 10 I update the BIOS first?

2) or should i get all the parts in there, boot it up, install Win10, plug in the one HDD from my old PC, make sure it all looks stable, transfer any profiles over and that i can load Pornhub ok on Firefox and THEN reboot it and update the BIOS?

I'm not sure I'd update the bios if everything works fine, but if you want to, you should do it as early as possible to save yourself some time if you have to disassemble. You probably won't have to, but just in case

[notanmmmonewbie]

I'm not sure I'd update the bios if everything works fine, but if you want to, you should do it as early as possible to save yourself some time if you have to disassemble. You probably won't have to, but just in case

I've done 3 PC builds in my whole lifetime and i've never had hardware issues and have never had to update BIOS. I'll probably just keep it handy on a thumb drive then just in case.

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OK so i might have a bit of an emergency, or maybe not. I was putting the CPU into the MOBO (LGA 1155). This was the same type as my last build so i knew what to expect and how to work the ZIF socket mechanism. CPU was in place, not backwards or anything cause the notch was lined up with the tab. I tried to close the ZIF the first time and i thought it felt a little hard to close so i opened it back up and removed the CPU. I was looking at the mobo pins and i thought that i bent them all. But when i looked at several pics online it looks like the pins are supposed to be all slanted out of the box/undamaged. They are all uniformed and leaning exactly in the same direction. The pics i saw of bent pins they looked shiny and one pin was bent one way while another way bents slightly another direction. Mine didnt look like that though.

So i'm thinking that i'm actually OK?

[Temp name]

Can you take pictures? It's hard to diagnose visual problems without visual aids

[notanmmmonewbie]

Can you take pictures? It's hard to diagnose visual problems without visual aids

The PC is done and everything seems to run ok. It might just have been a false alarm. I was thinking that the pins would be standing straight up but my pins look like pics of other mobo's with good pins. The one pic that i did see that had bent pins had them completely squished down and in several different directions and there were good pins next to them for comparison.

One thing that i did need help with is figuring out how to plug in my fans into the PSU. The plugs from my old PSU cant be reused. Below is a pic of what my current PSU looks like. What is the style of plug used for the PSU in the pic below? my old setup had a molex adapter and the PSU plug for it was a single row 5pin plug. But i cant use that on any of the plugs below.

https://images.evga.com/products/gal...50-XR_XL_5.jpg

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I'm guessing something like this is what i need?



https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-034-_-Product

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-171-_-Product

[Temp name]

The PC is done and everything seems to run ok. It might just have been a false alarm. I was thinking that the pins would be standing straight up but my pins look like pics of other mobo's with good pins. The one pic that i did see that had bent pins had them completely squished down and in several different directions and there were good pins next to them for comparison.

One thing that i did need help with is figuring out how to plug in my fans into the PSU. The plugs from my old PSU cant be reused. Below is a pic of what my current PSU looks like. What is the style of plug used for the PSU in the pic below? my old setup had a molex adapter and the PSU plug for it was a single row 5pin plug. But i cant use that on any of the plugs below.

https://images.evga.com/products/gal...50-XR_XL_5.jpg

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I'm guessing something like this is what i need?



https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-034-_-Product

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-171-_-Product

You got a Supernova G3 850W? It should come with some Molex cables to plug into either the SATA or Perif1 ports. I have the same PSU and it came with some

[notanmmmonewbie]

You got a Supernova G3 850W? It should come with some Molex cables to plug into either the SATA or Perif1 ports. I have the same PSU and it came with some

Ahh ok looks like i misplaced them while unpackaging, i do have one set. Its the 6 prong labeled periph and it has 3 molex plugs. I should be able to plug in all my chassis fans to that one cable then.