GPU probably failing?

[Coldkil]

Ok, long story short i bought a UPS that (my fault here) was a little undersized (though it didn't throw me any warning about too much power connected) because in my area power cutouts were too frequent for my tastes so i wanted to protect my rig.

Unfortunately it appears the damage was already done. The pc started not turning on even if i tried to bridge the pins on the mobo with a screwdriver. I ultimately disconnected everything but the molex pump connector (just to have something to test) and it just wasn't starting reliably. In the end i plugged in my old 2009 pc PSU and it just worked, to the point i have plugged everything back in and it doesn't show any issue from my tests. All tests were run WITHOUT the ups, i am directly connected to the wall.

I then tried reapplying the OC to the GPU only - mostly because it's the automatic MSI Afterburner and it shouldn't be terribly painful for the card. However running it always gives me the "restults are unstable" message, something never happened before. I have an aftermarket cooler, temps are around 60 degrees at best and doesn't matter if i pump voltage limits to the max (something i tend not to do, i just want to get something more out with standard power consumption targets) it's always the same results, and it says voltage is the main limit, while before it was NEVER an issue.

The dead PSU was a bequiet Straight Power 11 750w. So should be plenty. I went now with a seasonic prime 850w just to be safe. Has anyone any idea/tip if the card may be failing? It's not a problem to be to just run everything stock to make it last longer or whatever, just replacing a GPU these days is really the last thing i want to do.

Can give other info if needed.

[C20]

Overclocks of any sort can become unstable over time, and just because an OC worked before the UPS, it doesn't necessarily mean it will run afterwards. Additionally, auto-OC tools are not a great way of going. Though they might hit the nail on the head with some cards, for the vast majority they'll either not get every last bit of performance out, or worse, they'll push things too far and you end up with instability at that point. Even as someone who hasn't been seriously OCing for about a decade, I still find that the manual route is the best path to take. It's more complicated for sure, but I'd take complexity over instability every single time.

From the way you've phrased it, the issue doesn't happen at stock GPU clocks. If you have frequent power outages, this would have put undue stress on the PSU and could in turn cause undue stress on the components. Like with any battery, the initial power draw causes a lot of stress on the power supply for a short time, and doing this over and over could cause the battery / PSU to fail more quickly. In turn, this can cause the components drawing power to receive unstable power for a short time. Usually, this isn't a problem, but as time goes on and components start to wear out, you can end up with some very weird symptoms.

If I couldn't run a component at OC but I could run it at stock, I absolutely wouldn't replace it. OC's are outside of the manufacturer spec, and you'd still be playing the silicon lottery if you decided to buy a new card.

[Coldkil]

Ok, i was thinking the same. I'll keep the card stock, i'll probably only turn on xmp and apply a constant frequency/voltage to cpu just to keep things in line and make it last until it's time to rebuild. I want my rig to go at least another couple years (so stuff like ddr5 and 12vo can come out and i can check before buying).

[Coldkil]

12VO has been around for a while. It’s mainly for SIs/OEM(think Dell) and isn’t really something your typical DIY pc will use any time soon.

Yeah, my range for rebuilding was in 2-3 years from now. I don't want to spend anymore money on this system that does what i want for now.

- - - Updated - - -

All that being said I don't think your GPU has a problem but the BQ PSU was basically BBQ PSU

Yeah, the new unit arrived today, this evening i'll put in the pc and check that everything is fine. I'll run stuff stock for a while, then maybe meddle again with light OC if i feel like it. I just prefer my CPU to run at a fixed speed instead of autoclocking. GPU is another story, but again if i can get better performance for "free" i'm more than fine.

[Coldkil]

For sure. Even in 2-3 years VO likely won’t be standard for DIY builders. I wouldn’t worry about waiting for it.

Well, one less thing to worry about. And even if it becomes standard, i'm pretty sure psu brands will come out with adapter cables if needed.

[Coldkil]

No. The way 12VO works it isn’t that easy. You need a specific mobo that converts the 12VO into the necessary 5V and 3.5V. It’s really not something I expect to catch on any time soon.

I meant it like you said. New cpus with new mobos thhat support the new standard, but you have an old ATX psu. Since all you need is the 12v, your old psu can provide it - that's what i meant by cable adapters.

[C20]

I meant it like you said. New cpus with new mobos thhat support the new standard, but you have an old ATX psu. Since all you need is the 12v, your old psu can provide it - that's what i meant by cable adapters.

It's not as simple as that. The functionality to power on and off the motherboard (and thus the rest of the components) is triggered by a 5V line in ATX PSU's. Pressing the power button on your case essentially completes that circuit, which in turn tells the 12V line from the PSU that it should start sending power.

It may technically be possible with a voltage step-up / boost converter, but it's not as simple as a cable adapter which simply changes which pins connect to each location. Even if it's technically possible, messing about with voltages sent to equipment as sensitive as a motherboard is a sure fire way to fry the board, PSU and probably a bunch of other components. The PSU may trip because it detects that the voltage being routed back to it is too high, but that's the absolute best scenario I can think of.

[Yizu]

If you get a new UPS make sure its Pure Sine Wave and not modified or square wave found in cheap UPS. Coz its probably what killed your psu, and not because of not having enough juice.

[Coldkil]

If you get a new UPS make sure its Pure Sine Wave and not modified or square wave found in cheap UPS. Coz its probably what killed your psu, and not because of not having enough juice.

Any suggestion for a particular model? What i can find here costs more than double the money for the one i wanted to buy. Just to know if im checking things correctly.

[Coldkil]

For me best overall brand for surge protectors/UPS and anything else electrical is APC. Worth every penny. Do check them out.

My current one is an APC (sonce i knew the brand due to stuff we buy in my company) and apparently it's what fried my psu XD it's a 700w so maybe it's because of that