$800 Build help please

[thelocke]

Budget: About $800-$1000
Resolution: (Native for Viewsonic NX2232W 1680 x 1050)
Games / Setting Desired: WoW, and I’d like to play newer adventure RPGs but don’t have the current build to do so.
Software: Solidworks, Matlab, Processing, Eclipse
Country: ‘Merica
Parts that can be reused: CD/DVD drive
Do you need an OS? I’m a student, so I can get Windows 7 relatively cheap from the school.
Peripherals: None needed.

PSU: Corsair CX 600 Watt - $66

MoBo: MSI H77MA-G43 - $82

RAM: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1600 MHz - $71

HDD: WD 1TB 7200 RPM, SATA 6 Gb/s - $63

CPU: Intel i5 3350P - $170

GPU: GeForce GTX760 2GB - $250

[Toffie]

Can you list the old case you were using? Just wanna make sure there is no compability issues.

Things to note.

- I got the 4670(k) since overclocking the CPU can greatly improve your performance in WoW.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Pro3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($61.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($46.00 @ Newegg)
Total: $781.93
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-10 10:42 EDT-0400)

Overclocking guide : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CHs5_TdpXE

[Deleted]

See, I'm torn on this build, because I think an AMD CPU is going to be better, due to the heavy rendering work. However, for WoW, the IB CPUs from Intel are just flat better, so, I've got two builds for you - the first with an AMD, and the second with an Intel:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: AMD FX-6350 3.9GHz 6-Core Processor ($129.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI 990FXA-GD65V2 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($63.75 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Thermaltake VL800P1W2N (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $785.64
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-10 10:33 EDT-0400)

AMD build has a good quality overclocking capacity. Intel, however, have a much better IPC rate, so, with that in mind:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G43 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($94.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: GeIL EVO Veloce Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Thermaltake VL800P1W2N (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $810.88
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-10 10:40 EDT-0400)

Both will perform the tasks, but the Intel build is much better for WoW.

Also of note is the fact that I've included an optical drive with both - those are entirely optional, given that you've already got one. At this budget level, there's no way you'll get both an overclockable CPU and an SSD in the builds, but that's the first upgrade I'd recommend after this.

[Deleted]

If you are going down the AMD route this build is better. I just replaced a couple of parts from the AMD build above. You got some room left for either a SSD or a better cpu cooler.
Keep in mind that there is a promo on the PSU, so Im not sure how long that will last.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor ($144.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($89.99 @ Microcenter)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($63.75 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $735.65
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-10 10:50 EDT-0400)

[Dasffion]

Newegg has a great deal going on now,

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($144.99 @ Newegg)

for $310

[Fluorescent0]

The build Toffie linked, with the Asus Z87-A deal Dasffion posted, is definitely going to be your best bet.

[Deleted]

Like mentioned in Zeara's build:

XFX Core Edition PRO550W (P1-550S-XXB9) $30 (great quality and for $30 after MIR this is a steal)

Your Price: $49.99
With Promo Code
EMCXMXM47
$29.99 After $20.00 MIR

Or modular, SLI support option:

PSU: SeaSonic SSR-650RM 650W GOLD Certified Modular Haswell Ready

Your Price: $74.99
With Promo Code
EMCXMXP44
$59.99 After $15.00 MIR

Cheaper RAM:

RAM: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) Low Profile 1600MHz

Your Price: $53.99
With Promo Code
EMCXMXP35

[thelocke]

OK, so I bought the XFX 550W and a Rosewill Challenger case (it was an impulse buy) and now on the PC part's picker I see I have unfortunately screwed myself over by these mobos having a USB 3.0 hub and the case only utilizing the USB 2.0 ports. How much of a f*** up is this? Is it ok to just ignore the problem?

[chazus]

It's fine. Nobody (except like, one person, you know who you are :P) uses their USB 3.0 external drive on the front panels. it still has USB 3 in the back, and USB 2 in the front, so you should be fine. Unless you ABSOLUTELY have to have your external drive in the front, ready to get tripped over or something

[Fluorescent0]

You can just ignore that. It means you won't have frontal USB working at full speed, but you can still use them on the rear of your case.

[Deleted]

It's fine. Nobody (except like, one person, you know who you are :P) uses their USB 3.0 external drive on the front panels. it still has USB 3 in the back, and USB 2 in the front, so you should be fine. Unless you ABSOLUTELY have to have your external drive in the front, ready to get tripped over or something

I know you're referring to me. It's not a big deal but I honestly think you're misunderstanding me (and others) and I think you underestimate how many people use and care about having front USB 3.0.

In my case, it's not a drive that's connected 24/7, it's simply (multiple) external storage (and USB sticks) with media, backups etc. It's USB powered so it's getting unplugged when not needed. When I need to use anything from it or need to backup something, transfer etc. I simply plug it in and do whatever I need to, when done I unplug it.

I know you're trying to be funny and such but I don't get the whole "ready to get tripped over or something". First of all there isn't less or more risk of tripping a wire if it's 2.0 or 3.0, right? Second, it's not a long cable, there is nothing to "trip over". Third, I really can't be bothered to crawl down behind (case is under my table) the case to find a USB port every time I want to use it.

Would I not be able to do what I want if the ports were USB 2.0? Of course I would.

Would it take significantly longer to transfer files with USB 2.0? Yes definitely.

Most newer cases come with front USB 3.0, there is no reason not to really. It's also fairly easy to find a case with front USB 3.0 at almost any budget range so again no reason not to get it unless there is no room in the budget or the specific case you feel you must have or like a lot doesn't come with it.

@OP

You have nothing to worry about it will work perfectly fine, you still have USB 3.0 on the back should you want or "need it".

[chazus]

I don't get the whole "ready to get tripped over or something". First of all there isn't less or more risk of tripping a wire if it's 2.0 or 3.0, right?

It's more the idea that anything plugged into the back USB ports are 'permanent' (headphones, external drives, camera, etc) and anything in the front is 'temporary' (flash drives). Just from experience, 100% of the flash drive deaths in my house are from getting whacked by something, or my cat being clumsy. Nothing stays plugged into the front more than a few minutes. A USB 3.0 ext drive implies it's always there (thus 'ready to get tripped over')

granted, everyone's setup is different, and certainly a lot of people have their stuff in places where the front panel might be the best way to do things. I would certainly say, if you -intend- on having your external in the front, certainly get a case that supports it.

And yes, I was mostly joking on the rest of it, no hard feelings :P

[Klutzington]

I know you're trying to be funny and such but I don't get the whole "ready to get tripped over or something". First of all there isn't less or more risk of tripping a wire if it's 2.0 or 3.0, right? Second, it's not a long cable, there is nothing to "trip over". Third, I really can't be bothered to crawl down behind (case is under my table) the case to find a USB port every time I want to use it.

Or you can always set the external HDD on TOP of your case. I do it and it's extremely convenient.

[chazus]

Or you can always set the external HDD on TOP of your case. I do it and it's extremely convenient.

But then where will my cat sleep?

[Deleted]

It's more the idea that anything plugged into the back USB ports are 'permanent' (headphones, external drives, camera, etc) and anything in the front is 'temporary' (flash drives). Just from experience, 100% of the flash drive deaths in my house are from getting whacked by something, or my cat being clumsy. Nothing stays plugged into the front more than a few minutes. A USB 3.0 ext drive implies it's always there (thus 'ready to get tripped over')

granted, everyone's setup is different, and certainly a lot of people have their stuff in places where the front panel might be the best way to do things.

Exactly, different so it's not - Nobody uses their USB 3.0 external drive on the front panels

I don't understand how a USB 3.0 drive implies that it's always there (thus 'ready to get tripped over') and how would it be different from a USB 2.0?

If and when I need something permanent I'd install internal drives, not USB powered in the back of my case. Not sure why it's listed as your "permanent", it certainly can be but doesn't have to be by any means. Also convenient when transferring between other external drives, yes I have more than one. I personally don't want to deal with the slow USB 2.0, others might not care.

~1 foot / 30 cm cable...

[chazus]

I'm under the impression that most people have their external drives plugged in 24/7, USB2 or USB3.

[Deleted]

I'm under the impression that most people have their external drives plugged in 24/7, USB2 or USB3.

Some might just like some don't, I'm not sure why you get that impression. Unless I was doing hourly or at least daily backups why would I want to have it plugged in and use power 24/7? Why do you think they're making them so compact, passport size. Like the "My Passport" drive etc. USB powered, small, some come with a carrying case even, they're not meant to be permanent solutions (not that they can't be). There is also flash drives with USB 3.0, USB 2.0 is so painfully slow that if I have another option I will use it.

[chazus]

I'm not sure why you get that impression. Unless I was doing hourly or at least daily backups why would I want to have it plugged in and use power 24/7? Why do you think they're making them so compact, passport size. Like the "My Passport" drive etc. USB powered, small, some come with a carrying case even.

Any external drive over 1TB* can't do that. They need constant power (i.e. plugged into surge protector) so they are effectively a 'fixed' device, and thus always plugged into the computer.

Most externals I see people have are a permanent fixture that is always plugged in. The Passport thing you have is much rarer (at least, from what I've seen), and people usually use that for travel purposes, since it IS easy to plug and unplug without having to go carpet crawling to unplug things.

*I think only very recently, there are a few select 2TB drives like such. Very few.

There is no 3-4TB solution for what you currently have.

[Deleted]

500GB and 1TB are the most common, there are plenty of 1.5TB as well and some 2TB drives but yes I'm sorry I should have been more specific, I'm talking about USB powered external hard drives (pretty sure though I've mentioned USB powered a few times already) not "huge" 3-4TB externals with a power brig. Not sure where I hinted I was ever talking about those.

I just think you need to be able to think outside the box once in a while and realize not everyone uses the same setup as you would. Also realize there are many other needs to be covered than just those of yours. I know a bunch of people with multiple USB (3.0) powered external storage and USB (3.0) flash drives, in fact I share drives with some regularly and the small size and USB powered is extremely convenient.

If I needed permanent storage above 1.5-2TB I would simply buy more and cheaper internal HDDs, not having to reply on some power brig.

[chazus]

not "huge" 3-4TB externals with a power brig. Not sure where I hinted I was ever talking about those.

I just think you need to be able to think outside the box once in a while and realize not everyone uses the same setup as you would.

Oh, I was just saying that... While that -is- my setup.. It's also the same setup I've seen in thousands of households. The number of people I've seen with the 'stand alone' usb drive is... far fewer, I guess. I don't think I've seen more than 20-30 in my entire lifetime, and I've seen thousands of the 'USB + Dedicated power' setup.

Honestly, I'm just generalizing, and I agree that it certainly isn't 'everyone'. Just a large number. Regardless, people should always pick and plan for their setup. If someone uses USB 3.0 in the front, or thinks they will, they should definitely, definitely, get a case to accommodate for that.