1. #1

    New Build ~$900 without a GPU (for now)

    So I currently have a GTX 570, which I obviously need to replace, however I want to wait until the new Radeon cards/Nvidia card come out with aftermarket coolers and get one of those depending on which is better. I was thinking about just buying all the other parts and just use the GPU I already have, and then replace it later once the others come out in December. I don't really know how possible that is, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

    Budget - ~$900 USD without a GPU, ~$1200-1300 with one, possibly more depending on how much of an improvement it is.
    Resolution - 1920x1080
    Games / Settings Desired - WoW, DotA, basically all new games because I pick up a lot of games at ultra/max settings if possible.
    Any other intensive software or special things you do (Frequent video encoding, 3D modeling, etc) - I render with Sony Vegas quite a lot, might start streaming if I can ever be asked to stop being lazy.
    Country - United States
    Parts that can be reused - I guess the case probably can, it's http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811129043 and maybe the power supply? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139007 is what I currently have, don't know if it's reusable or not honestly.
    Do you need an OS? - Yes, will probably get Windows 8.
    Do you need peripherals (e.g. monitor, mouse, keyboard, speakers, etc)? - No, although I'd take recommendations for a new keyboard/mouse, but not part of the budget.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

    CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ NCIX US)
    CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Microcenter)
    Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($144.99 @ Newegg)
    Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($87.32 @ NCIX US)
    Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($98.98 @ OutletPC)
    Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.98 @ SuperBiiz)
    Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($54.99 @ Microcenter)
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($96.90 @ Amazon)
    Total: $898.14
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-05 07:15 EST-0500)

    That's the build I came up with, so just under $900, then the GPU would be like $400 which would make the price $1300 total or a little more if I get a more expensive card, doesn't include a case as I think I can reuse mine, but does include a power supply because I'm not positive on that one. Again, doesn't have a GPU because I'm waiting for the 780 TI or one of the new Radeon cards (maybe the r9 290x or just the r9 290, not sure yet). What are your thoughts on this build? Does it seem okay, I really have no idea if that CPU Cooler is of any use, or any other recommendations anyone can make would be great. This is the first time I've tried making a build myself, so I definitely don't know if there's a ton of improvements that could be made, it seems pretty solid to me, but I'm pretty clueless haha.

    Thanks a lot.

  2. #2
    You can easily reuse the power supply and the case, even though the power supply is way oversized, but as you already have it and you are on a budget, it is fine.

    If you think about buying a new one, I highly recommend buying one with a 80+ gold certificate and at least 3 years warranty(Corsair,Seasonic, Be quiet) around 550W.

    You really should ask yourself, if you need the 4770K or a 4670K(overclocked to 4.4 GHz) would be enough.
    The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is totally fine, if you don't overclock. If you want to overclock, I would buy a Noctua NH-D14(~75$).
    The mainboard is ok, but I would never buy something from ASRock. I would go for the Asus Z87-A(~140$) instead.
    The memory is fine as well, but I would buy the CL7 version of it. You should also consider, that all the new games(speaking NextGen games) demand at least 8GB of Ram for optimal settings and to be on the safe side, I would go for 16GB CL7(e.g. 16 GB G.Skill Trident X, removable heatsprider ftw for a low profile ram).
    I would definitely switch the SSD for the 120GB EVO by Samsung, because it's faster than the Basic Series at the same price.
    I would also buy a way bigger HDD, but switch for a silent and efficient one like the Caviar Greens from Western Digital (3TB offers the best GB per $ yield).

    In the end you will pay ~1000$ but have more quality parts in your build.

    As for the GPU I would wait for a Sapphire Toxic like version of the R9 290 for ~400$.

  3. #3
    Deleted
    Try this build (though I'm not 100% on the PSU, as yours is way overkill, but could feasibly be used):

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

    CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ NCIX US)
    CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
    Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ SuperBiiz)
    Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.75 @ Newegg)
    Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($98.98 @ OutletPC)
    Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
    Power Supply: OCZ ZT 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon)
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($96.90 @ Amazon)
    Total: $889.57
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-05 10:21 EST-0500)

    RAM is much cheaper than your initial listed, the mobo you have is okay, but the ASUS has unified fan control built-in. IF youi can drop the i7 to the i5-4670k, then I'd suggest upgrading the SSD to the 240GB version.

  4. #4
    That WD10EZEX is nowhere worth it to a WD10EZRX considering the higher noise production and the small performance gain. H60's kinda have horrible noise/performance ratio so rather get an aircooler like a nh-u14s which performs extremely well for its size in terms of noise/performance and even better than the NH-D14.

    That OCZ ZT 650W received an award for fail at Hardocp.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

    CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ NCIX US)
    CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Mwave)
    Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ SuperBiiz)
    Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.75 @ Newegg)
    Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($98.98 @ OutletPC)
    Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.59 @ Amazon)
    Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($71.30 @ Newegg)
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($96.90 @ Amazon)
    Total: $916.49
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-05 12:00 EST-0500)

  5. #5
    Deleted
    Quote Originally Posted by Faithh View Post
    That WD10EZEX is nowhere worth it to a WD10EZRX considering the higher noise production and the small performance gain. H60's kinda have horrible noise/performance ratio so rather get an aircooler like a nh-u14s which performs extremely well for its size in terms of noise/performance and even better than the NH-D14.

    That OCZ ZT 650W received an award for fail at Hardocp.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

    CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ NCIX US)
    CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Mwave)
    Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ SuperBiiz)
    Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.75 @ Newegg)
    Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($98.98 @ OutletPC)
    Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.59 @ Amazon)
    Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($71.30 @ Newegg)
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($96.90 @ Amazon)
    Total: $916.49
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-05 12:00 EST-0500)
    1) Why are you talking complete crap about the Caviar Blue when you chose the Green, which is primarily for data storage, rather than general use?
    2) I went for the best price/performance point within the budget for coolers that would get a moderate overclock;
    3) Fair enough, but I mentioned that the HX the OP already has is way overkill - though your PSU suggestion is far better.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by tenangrychickens View Post
    1) Why are you talking complete crap about the Caviar Blue when you chose the Green, which is primarily for data storage, rather than general use?
    2) I went for the best price/performance point within the budget for coolers that would get a moderate overclock;
    3) Fair enough, but I mentioned that the HX the OP already has is way overkill - though your PSU suggestion is far better.
    1) Tell me on the hand of this comparison from hardware.info what the main difference is between the blue (wd10ezex) & green (wd10ezrx) except that the green drive is a lot quieter -> http://i.imgur.com/q2X7gbW.png
    2) That stock fan would be replaced, the noise of that motor is awful no matter what RPM it's loud so how are you going to explain the price/performance/noise of that thing? The chance that a H60 dies is high enough or that you aren't happy with it because the pump is too loud, add some more to RMA costs. Aircooling > watercooling. The noctua NH-u14s/NH-u12S is slightly expensiver than the 212 evo but it's just worth it in my opinion, the fans noctua makes are just simply the best and the fanmotor is totally inaudible.
    3) So you just advise him a new one (a firework PSU even) because it's overkill? I didn't notice that he has a HX already. Fixing now my mistake; OP reuse that PSU its a perfect one.

    @Op my 2nd input, save yourself 100$ and get yourself an i5 4670k instead of an i7. Yes I know you're wanting to stream/render video's; the GPU's have their own video encoder cpu's (calling this VID) which allows you to record your games or stream your games without any performance loss. The streaming part isn't out yet but the recording one (aka shadowplay) is and it's working amazing. That 100$ you save you can do a lot with it like a new case or a bigger SSD or a better GPU or whatsoever.

  7. #7
    Thanks a lot for the input guys. Tweaked the build a little and I think it's pretty solid now. I appreciate it quite a lot since I wasn't sure about a lot of things. The build I have now looks like:

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

    CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ NCIX US)
    CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
    Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ SuperBiiz)
    Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.75 @ Newegg)
    Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($98.98 @ OutletPC)
    Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($95.99 @ Adorama)
    Total: $818.67
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-05 22:51 EST-0500)

    That would be using the power supply/case I already have. Then for a GPU I was thinking maybe the r9-280x for $300 since I play 1920x1080, and those are already out for sale currently, but I'm not sure on that one yet, will probably continue to wait until December and see what ends up happening with those.

    I've never really overclocked before, would that build be capable of it? I've also never used a liquid cooler at all, but I watched a video for that one and it seemed simple enough, so I don't mind trying it.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Rucati View Post
    might start streaming if I can ever be asked to stop being lazy.
    Shadowplay might support Twitch streaming in the future. Keep an eye out for it if you're waiting to buy the GPU.

    Coming later this year, Jen-Hsun announced that ShadowPlay will be able to stream directly to TWITCH.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rucati View Post
    Keep the PSU. The HX is very high quality, higher than the Corsair CX and the OCZ ZT (which is known to be loud).[/QUOTE]

    Quote Originally Posted by Rucati View Post
    I've never really overclocked before, would that build be capable of it? I've also never used a liquid cooler at all, but I watched a video for that one and it seemed simple enough, so I don't mind trying it.
    Yes, the i7-4770K + Z87-A is overclock capable.

    AIO installation is straightforward. Although, AIOs make a bubbly pump noise if the air bubbles aren't cleared from the pump and pipes via positioning and orientation.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by yurano View Post
    Shadowplay might support Twitch streaming in the future. Keep an eye out for it if you're waiting to buy the GPU.

    Coming later this year, Jen-Hsun announced that ShadowPlay will be able to stream directly to TWITCH.
    Oo that sounds rather interesting. I'll continue waiting on the GPU then until more information is out about all the options. Thanks for the link, that was an interesting read.

    Quote Originally Posted by yurano View Post
    Keep the PSU. The HX is very high quality, higher than the Corsair CX and the OCZ ZT (which is known to be loud).
    Alright sounds good, can do that no problem haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by yurano View Post
    Yes, the i7-4770K + Z87-A is overclock capable.

    AIO installation is straightforward. Although, AIOs make a bubbly pump noise if the air bubbles aren't cleared from the pump and pipes via positioning and orientation.
    Yeah the video I watched made it look pretty easy, but I suppose I've seen people do lots of things in videos that look easy but are much harder in real life. Guess time will tell on this one.

    Thanks for the info, was informative.

  10. #10
    Deleted
    Quote Originally Posted by Faithh View Post
    1) Tell me on the hand of this comparison from hardware.info what the main difference is between the blue (wd10ezex) & green (wd10ezrx) except that the green drive is a lot quieter -> http://i.imgur.com/q2X7gbW.png
    Reliability. I'd personally go for Caviar Reds.

    Shadowplay is indeed a good choice, and 780Ti will, according to rumours, be a beastly card. But Shadowplay doesn't work with Vegas, he is better off capturing video with something like Lagarith Lossless Codec, do his editing and encode in Vegas. As you can see here*it supports OpenCL. That is something Radeon cards are regarded to be better at. Here is some relevant test data.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Rucati View Post
    Yeah the video I watched made it look pretty easy, but I suppose I've seen people do lots of things in videos that look easy but are much harder in real life. Guess time will tell on this one.

    Thanks for the info, was informative.
    Since you just went over my post, consider a NH-u14s/NH-u12s over that H60 simply because of reliability and much better cooling performance and accoustics. The water pump will never be quiet as a NF-F12/NF-a14 at lowest RPM. The stock fan you get is totally garbage from the H60. Just save yourself a bunch of problems and get the aircooler.

  12. #12
    While my H100 isn't absolutely silent, its functionally silent at 5 ft with the pump on high speed. In fact, my Gigabyte 760 at 1000 RPM while idle is the loudest thing in my system, even though its very quiet.

    The most critical aspect of keeping an AIO silent is fan throttling (new H60s can do this) and making sure water bubbles are trapped in the radiator instead of gurgling in the pump.

  13. #13
    Deleted
    AIOs are noticable louder and there is absolutely no reason getting the H60 over the noctuas. They only become relevant when air isn't enough. In fact, if possible, rather get a Mugen 4 than Noctua NH-u14s. It's cheaper and has similar performance, both in silence and cooling power.

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