1. #6921
    Quote Originally Posted by Drunkenvalley View Post
    It's an auto-overclock I believe. So simply setting the multiplier is logically enough for it to enable or alter any necessary features.
    Yeah, alternatively though they have a feature called OC Genie II, though I have not read into how that works exactly. Apparently it's an auto overclock for your hardware, but I chose to just do it manually. I think I might bump it down to 4.2Ghz though, however I'd be interested to see if I can hit 5Ghz without making any other adjustments aside from the multiplier.

    ---------- Post added 2012-05-03 at 06:33 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Xuvial View Post
    Just changed the clock frequency and that's it? There is just 1 other setting you need to manually set and that is the core voltage (vCore). When motherboards are left to automatically decide the voltage for overclocked chips, some tend to throw out excessive voltage or even undervolt, causing instability. It looks like your chip will be happy with 1.32v @ 4.6ghz, so go back into BIOS and manually set it to 1.32v and you're golden. If you notice instability during Prime 95 (or whatever you use to test stability) then nudge the voltage a teeny bit higher to 1.325v, then 1.33v, etc.
    All other settings can be left to auto/defaults since it's just a moderate OC.

    Also keep an eye on temps

    Also GUI-based BIOS's where you can use the mouse have been around since the P67 days (or maybe even earlier), it's not specific to Z77 boards or MSI boards. Though I will admit MSI's implementation is pretty good unlike *cough* Gigabyte *cough* :P
    Neither of my previous Gigabyte boards had a GUI based BIOS actually, they were all ghetto style with keyboard controls only

    I will go and adjust the vCore manually though, it seems that CPU-Z has it sitting at 1.328 volts right now and it crashed on the last Prime95 test. Temperatures seem fine though, 35 degrees idling, however I might have to keep the OC lower through the summer otherwise I will have an even hotter room and it will just overheat my CPU (or me, whichever comes first)

  2. #6922
    I just tried out the Asus auto OC feature, I set me at 4.37 [email protected] and after about 5 minutes of prime95 the cpu didn't go above 40°C.



    I'll probably try setting the vcore around there and boosting the frequency up a bit, maybe to 4.6.

    //Off-topic: Has anybody got any experiece with Gigabyte's graphics card overclocking tool Easyboost?
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  3. #6923
    I am Murloc! Xuvial's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rennadrel View Post
    however I'd be interested to see if I can hit 5Ghz without making any other adjustments aside from the multiplier.
    Haha if only it was that easy :P
    Your PC will most likely freeze on the windows logo and crash in the background (as I've experienced all too often when toying with multipliers ) or simply BSOD after startup. Worse, your mobo may spit some crazy auto vcore like 1.5v (or even higher) to just to get that overclock functional.

    ---------- Post added 2012-05-03 at 10:54 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Butler Log View Post
    I just tried out the Asus auto OC feature, I set me at 4.37 [email protected] and after about 5 minutes of prime95 the cpu didn't go above 40°C.

    I'll probably try setting the vcore around there and boosting the frequency up a bit, maybe to 4.6.
    There we go, 1.33v is way overkill for an overclock that could potentially be pulled at stock volts (or just a tad more). But as you said, 4.6 should definitely be doable at 1.33v so try it.

    //Off-topic: Has anybody got any experiece with Gigabyte's graphics card overclocking tool Easyboost?
    EasyBoost, Precision, SmartDoctor...just different skins of programs that do exactly the same thing as MSI Afterburner, which everyone should be using :P
    GPU overclocking is as simple as drawing squares in MS paint!
    Last edited by Xuvial; 2012-05-03 at 10:58 PM.

  4. #6924
    Quote Originally Posted by Xuvial View Post
    Haha if only it was that easy :P
    Your PC will most likely freeze on the windows logo and crash in the background (as I've experienced all too often when toying with multipliers ) or simply BSOD after startup. Worse, your mobo may spit some crazy auto vcore like 1.5v (or even higher) to just to get that overclock functional.
    Yeah, I can't even get into the BIOS now, it won't boot at all. Now I don't know what to do to fix it

  5. #6925
    Quote Originally Posted by Rennadrel View Post
    Yeah, I can't even get into the BIOS now, it won't boot at all. Now I don't know what to do to fix it
    Reset your bios. What motherboard do you have?

  6. #6926
    Gigabyte previously used straight up BIOS, so that wasn't exactly pretty. However, most other brands started using UEFI with the P67 already from what I encountered. With Z77 all brands have gone UEFI and AHCI drivers are defaulted to, which to me has sped up booting a fair bit as well...

  7. #6927
    I am Murloc! Xuvial's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rennadrel View Post
    Yeah, I can't even get into the BIOS now, it won't boot at all. Now I don't know what to do to fix it
    Hmm? Strange, the BIOS settings aren't applied until after the PC boots. What happens when you press the power button?

    Anyway you could just hit the CMOS reset and put everything back to factory defaults. I believe MSI Z77 boards come with clearly labeled buttons in the top-right corner, push the one that says "Reset".
    (hurr durr gone are the days of the CMOS jumper or having to manually remove the battery >_<)

  8. #6928
    Xuvial, he can't. The board Rennadrel's got doesn't feature those buttons. To clear CMOS on that board requires to use the jumper, I think.

  9. #6929
    Bloodsail Admiral foil's Avatar
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    My system, Slow but meh...

    i5 2500 (K, y u no wave arms when researching)

    4GB ram (8 but 32 bit atm)

    2x 500gb drives. 1 for Os's, 1 for games n media.

    HD 5850 OC'd

    900w surround sound

    PS3 controller, Momo racing wheel.

  10. #6930
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    Quote Originally Posted by foil View Post
    My system, Slow but meh...

    i5 2500 (K, y u no wave arms when researching)

    4GB ram (8 but 32 bit atm)

    2x 500gb drives. 1 for Os's, 1 for games n media.

    HD 5850 OC'd

    900w surround sound

    PS3 controller, Momo racing wheel.
    So basically the exact same thing you posted on April 26th? =p

    Pictures would still make this a little more exciting than repeating hehe.
    CPU: Intel i5-3570k (4.5GHz) MB: ASUS Z77 Sabertooth (uefi 2003)
    GPU: Asus 280X TOP (1080MHz/1700MHz) RAM: Corsair LP/LV white 8GB 1600MHz
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    Current build! ||Old Build || Bitdefender Total Security 2014 || AV-TEST Jan/Feb 2013

  11. #6931
    Quote Originally Posted by Drunkenvalley View Post
    Xuvial, he can't. The board Rennadrel's got doesn't feature those buttons. To clear CMOS on that board requires to use the jumper, I think.
    Care to explain how this is done?

  12. #6932
    just built today

    cpu - i7 3770k
    motherboard - p8z77-v
    ram -16GB XMS3 1600mhz
    ssd - kingstin hyperx 120gb ssd
    hdd - 2tb western digital
    Sony bd5300s bluray driv
    cooling - corsair H80
    2xradeon hd6950 in crossfire 1 taken from old machine
    coolermaster haf x and 750w psu

  13. #6933
    Quote Originally Posted by Rennadrel View Post
    Care to explain how this is done?
    http://www.computer-how-to-guide.com...mos-bios-rese/

    Also, I suggest in the future keeping an eye on features. The debug LEDs, the various extra buttons, etc, are all neat and useful. If you'd gone for the G55 version of your mobo you'd have gotten both I believe.

  14. #6934
    Well all there is on the jumper is a little black thing and removing it does nothing it's just a piece of plastic. Not to mention there are only two pins on the Clear CMOS Jumper on this board. WTF?

  15. #6935
    Immortal Notarget's Avatar
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    Can you just pull the battery?
    CPU: Intel i5-3570k (4.5GHz) MB: ASUS Z77 Sabertooth (uefi 2003)
    GPU: Asus 280X TOP (1080MHz/1700MHz) RAM: Corsair LP/LV white 8GB 1600MHz
    SSD: Samsung 840Pro 256GB + Crucial m4 128GB (040H) PSU: Seasonic 620M CASE: Corsair 500R (White/Black) Monitor: LG 237L-BN IPS
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  16. #6936
    I am Murloc! Xuvial's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rennadrel View Post
    Well all there is on the jumper is a little black thing and removing it does nothing it's just a piece of plastic. Not to mention there are only two pins on the Clear CMOS Jumper on this board. WTF?
    Screenshot taken from your mobo's manual:



    A little jumper (piece of plastic, yes) would've come with your motherboard contents. Power off your system, switch off/unplug the PSU from behind, insert the little jumper onto the 2 pins marked "JBAT1" (marked with a red circle in the image), let it sit there for a few seconds, then take off the jumper, power up your system. The BIOS should've reset.

    It's a tad different from motherboards I've worked with, I gave up after trying to locate the cmos pins just from images of the mobo (basically 10 minutes of "where are the fucking cmos pins on this thing aargh"), ended up going to the manual :P
    Last edited by Xuvial; 2012-05-04 at 12:56 AM.

  17. #6937
    Quote Originally Posted by Xuvial View Post
    Screenshot taken from your mobo's manual:

    A little jumper (piece of plastic, yes) would've come with your motherboard contents. Power off your system, switch off/unplug the PSU from behind, insert the little jumper onto the 2 pins marked "JBAT1" (marked with a red circle in the image), let it sit there for a few seconds, take it off, power up your system. The BIOS should've reset.
    Yeah, I read the instructions already. Unfortunately MSI sucks and they don't provide you with a jumper

  18. #6938
    We're extremely off-topic guys. Rennadrel, if you're still having problems, feel free to make a new thread asking for specific help.

  19. #6939
    I am Murloc! Xuvial's Avatar
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    Bleh bombardment time, I'll PM you.

    So I wonder if my PCI slot placement is wonky because it seems in most newer motherboards the PCI2.0_16x_1 slot is quite close to the CPU, while mine isn't.

  20. #6940
    Bloodsail Admiral Vayshan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butler Log View Post
    How do you tell which way a fan will blow when it is switched on when it has no arrows marked?
    This is the way you can always tell the intake side from the exhaust side The backside (exhaust) is always the one with the structural frame and the sticker.

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