That's really beautiful Drunken, god damn it haha.
Puts my NZXT cable extensions to shame.
i7-6700k 4.2GHz | Gigabyte GTX 980 | 16GB Kingston HyperX | Intel 750 Series SSD 400GB | Corsair H100i | Noctua IndustialPPC
ASUS PB298Q 4K | 2x QNIX QH2710 | CM Storm Rapid w/ Reds | Zowie AM | Schiit Stack w/ Sennheiser HD8/Antlion Modmic
Armory
God almighty, that is bloody awesome. I really can't wait till I get the money to do a full system overhaul.
Just out of curiosity, is the difference between u2711 and u3011 big and worth the extra money? If you have seen it of course.
---------- Post added 2012-10-25 at 03:08 PM ----------
I am planning to do some mega cable sleeving for my system which I am hopefully going to build by next year, is it hard and frustrating to do it or?
Last edited by BicycleMafioso; 2012-10-25 at 04:24 PM. Reason: Stop quoting images
-K
I found it quite easy, but it enjoys hurting my fingers. That, and I nicked my right hand's index finger with the knife I used to cut sleeve to size.
It's no reason to worry. It's about 2mm big cut lol.
After a few tries, I found it was silly hard to get the result I wanted with heatshrink, so I wanted to get heatshrinkless instead, since that wouldn't show virtually any errors at all. Also was one less factor to deal with, I found.
Last edited by Drunkenvalley; 2012-10-25 at 02:32 PM.
I have seen both the Apple Cinema Display and the U3011 "in action" and can honestly say that the ACD looks the best, although at a much higher price. However, I sit with a window in my back which means glare galore and as such I need a matte display; alas the U2711 and the U3011. Note though that the ACD is 8-biit only while the U2711 and U3011 is 8-bit with the ability to emulate 10-bit.
The difference between these two (U2711 and U3011) is simply that the bezel extends down on the U3011. As far as the panel goes, they are near identical. I much prefer the 1440p resolution over 1600p, and the price difference at the time was 5400 SEK versus 9600 SEK. The choice was easy.
So how do you attach the sleeve then?
Not exactly a PC component but somewhat related, this is our Sherwood Newcastle R-626 amplifier which has been running great since we purchased it in 1999 (click for full-res).
Back when we bought it we were still a young family and didn't really know what the hell this thing could even do, only how to clip-in exposed wire from the back (no plugs) to connect the speakers. Now that I'm all grown-up and I decided to open it and HOLY CRAP CAPACITORS. Cleanup time!
The 5.1 speaker setup that came with it are all nearing their life's end, crackling and giving horrible bass (sounds like someone farting) but the amplifier lives on
Currently contemplating whether I should keep it around to power the next speaker system that I get. If I do keep it around it'll pretty much only exist for amplification purposes (even though it was aimed at handling video+audio) because back then HDMI hadn't even been invented.
Apparently audio equipment "ages well" unlike computers, but I don't know to what extent...I mean I've seen people happily using some pretty ancient equipment (like mixers) but what about sound quality :S
Last edited by Xuvial; 2012-10-25 at 08:23 PM.
WoW Character: Wintel - Frostmourne (OCE)
Gaming rig: i7 7700K, GTX 1080 Ti, 16GB DDR4, BenQ 144hz 1440p
Signature art courtesy of Blitzkatze
Isn't Sherwood a side spin on Kenwood? Just looks very similar to something I had years ago.....can't beat the old stuff
I would keep it tbh m8 my buddy still roll's with a Pioneer amp and little Tannoy bookshelf speakers
Last edited by mmoc8d9a66b0a0; 2012-10-25 at 09:15 PM.
So it's been a while since i last posted my gaming setup. And since then there where some major changes. But they happened bit by bit, so didn't really feel compelled to post, but now with a new case, it's update time!
My old rig about 2 years ago was the following:
Case: Lian Li PC-07FN
PSU: Tagan Piperock 500W
CPU: Intel i5-750
RAM: 2x2GB Kingston DDR3-1333
MB: Asus P7P55D
VGA: MSI Hawk 5770
DVD: LG GH-22NS70
SSD: 120GB OCZ Vertex2
HDD1: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200rpm
HDD2: WD Caviar Green 1TB 5400rpm
TFT: Samsung SyncMaster 2443BW
Speakers: Technics HD50 Mini Hifi System
Headset: Sennheiser PC-150
Mouse: Logitech G9x
Keyboard: Cherry G83 standard keyboard
Now i am sitting with the following:
Image links to an album with several images
Case: Fractal Design Define R4
PSU: Be Quiet Straight Power E9 480W 80+Gold modular
CPU: Intel i5-3570k
Heatsink: Scythe Mugen 3
RAM: 2x4GB DDR3-1333 Silicon Power
MB: Asus P8Z77-V LX
VGA: Sapphire Radeon 7850 2GB OC
DVD: LG GH-22NS90
SSD: Crucial m4 128GB
HDD1: 1TB WD Caviar Green
HDD2: 2x2TB Samsung SpinPoint F4 Eco Green in Raid1
Peripherals like before, except:
Keyboard: DasKeyboard Model S silent professional
Headset: Plantronics GameCom 380
Mousemat: Roccat Taito
In case you are wondering, why i swapped from Sennheiser to Plantronics: My Brother killled the Mic on my Sennheiser and i just needed a cheap headset for Vent/TS. The Plantronics is very comfortable to wear, and while the sound quality isn't on par with Sennheiser, it's perfectly fine for voice chat. (i don't hear music over headphones)
P.S.
My new case vibrates a little bit and causes the plastic front to rattle. Very annoying. I need to check if there is something not quite tightly screwed or similar...
Edit:
I think i found the culprit: The upper hdd cage (the removable one) wasn't screwed in tight. Blissful silence!
Last edited by Biernot; 2012-10-26 at 01:02 AM.
Why do something simple, when there is a complicated way?
Ryzen 7 2700X | BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4 | 16GB DDR4-3200 | MSI X470 Gaming Pro | MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8G | 500GB / 750GB Crucial SSD
Fractal Define C | LG 32UK550 | Das Model S Professional Silent | CM Storm Xornet
Lol Xuvial dude, were you really considering dumping that for some DAC and mini amp and studio monitors? Shame on you
You sir, get at least 9/10 from me for cable management considering how many drives you're running. I'd put all the drives in the top cage and remove the bottom cage for slightly better airflow (or the other way around if you can put that SSD somewhere). Great build ^_^
Ouch, hammer of judgement
FYI that exact amp sold on ebay for $19 back in 2001. As big and feature-rich as it looks, ancient tech is still ancient...borderline junk probably.
I may still end up not using that (I won't DUMP it, but it'll gather dust in the garage) because MicroLab Solo7C's don't need any such huge amplifier, they connect directly to the laptop via 3.5mm jacks like regular speakers.
WoW Character: Wintel - Frostmourne (OCE)
Gaming rig: i7 7700K, GTX 1080 Ti, 16GB DDR4, BenQ 144hz 1440p
Signature art courtesy of Blitzkatze
Click image for full size. o_o
I finally got the backplates for my cards. I immediately replaced the waterblock on the old card (which had the CSQ variant previously). However, after installing the card into the PC for some test-fitting I realized: My 1/2" ID 3/4" OD fittings are simply too fucking fat to fit on the top side of the cards! So I can't connect the cards lol.
Hopefully it'll only take a few weeks for Crystal Links to come in.
I think, you can either remove the top one or both, but not the bottom one.
With this case, i actually could put the SSD somewhere else: http://i.imgur.com/T9sla.jpg notice the holes below the cpu cutout, that don't quite fit the normal ATX standoff holes? They are actually spaced, so you can bolt in 2.5" drives there. But the downside is, that you have to remove the motherboard to access them, which doesn't seem worth the hassle for me.
I am actually not really worried about airflow, because the parts i have in there are fairly low grade in terms of heat. I am more worried, that my hdds might get too hot when they are packed too tight. (currently i don't have a fan in the lower front position)
As for the cable management:
The psu i am using is extremely convenient in that regard, as it has one cable with 4x SATA (using this for the hdds) and one with 2x SATA / 2x Molex (for dvd and the fan controller). Also the PCIe cable only has a single 6+2p connector, making it more tidy than if i had a spare hanging around (also the +2p is conveniently on the backside of the plug on the video card, with enough space that it doesn't need to get bend away). And las but not least, the case has a lot of room on the backside to stow away excess cables.
Last edited by Biernot; 2012-10-26 at 08:29 PM.
Why do something simple, when there is a complicated way?
Ryzen 7 2700X | BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4 | 16GB DDR4-3200 | MSI X470 Gaming Pro | MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8G | 500GB / 750GB Crucial SSD
Fractal Define C | LG 32UK550 | Das Model S Professional Silent | CM Storm Xornet
Hi guys, here is my set up
3570k, stock (had a OC nightmare with my old rig) hyper 212 cooler, eventually I'll get some balls and OC
8g crucial ram 1333mhz
gigabyte 7870 ghz edition
750 antec PSU
96 GB SSD kingston sata II (old)
128 GB Agility 4 SSD sata III
500 gb WD
I'm kind of a neat freak when it comes to my PC station. I wish I could have my tower on the table, but the noise annoys me.
Funny story, I originally wanted to get my first high end card, a 7950. Micro center is an hours drive and I was so excited to get that card I didn't pay attention to my gas tank, when I got there I was on E and I didn't have enough gas to get back home, so I had to get a 7870 (before the price drop, 300$ -_-) so I could have enough to full up maybe next generation
P.S. I dunno how you guys have such neat cable management, it took me 4 hours just to get it the way it is now, it was much worst!
There are a few things you need for good cable management:
Case: Your case needs to support it. Nearly all cases above $50 should have some form of cable management behind the motherboard tray, with cutouts to allow only short visible sections of the cables. See my rig: http://imgur.com/a/dHx7B#5 The trick is to let the cables disappear as fast as fossible. If they are out of sight, it doesn't matter how crooked or messy they are. Here is how my build looks from the back: http://imgur.com/a/dHx7B#10
Cable Ties: You need some form of cable ties to either bunch some together or hold them in place. You can use either zip-ties or twist-ties. Advantage of zip-ties is the strength: you can zip them tight and they stay that way (but you need to cut them open if you need to re-do the cables).
Modular Power Supply: Not a necessity, but a great help. Don't attach cables that you don't need -> less cables you need to hide.
A Plan in your Head: Think about, how you want to route the cables in advance. If your case doesn't allow for the cables to go behind the motherboard tray, then most of the time the best looking idea is, to bunch them together as a thick strand that goes up the right side of your motherboard and branch of the cables as needed. Even if your case doesn't have room behind the motherboard, most of the time the space behind the hard drive area is a good place to stow excess cables.
P.S.
Just found a nice example: http://www.pc-pad.com/img/before-after.jpg
Why do something simple, when there is a complicated way?
Ryzen 7 2700X | BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4 | 16GB DDR4-3200 | MSI X470 Gaming Pro | MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8G | 500GB / 750GB Crucial SSD
Fractal Define C | LG 32UK550 | Das Model S Professional Silent | CM Storm Xornet